how do i bore out a 2d maglite to accept 8aa? (NYC)

bxstylez

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how do i bore out a 2d maglite to accept 8AA?

i'm based in NYC (bronx) if anyone can help me bore it out for a small fee
 

vtunderground

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Are you using the 8AA-2D adapter from the Sandwich Shoppe? If so, you won't need to bore the Maglite body if you're planning on using alkaline batteries. Most NiMH's will require boring though... but I've been using Rayovac 2000 mAh Nimh's that fit just fine.
 

bxstylez

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yeah i'm using the higher capacities nimh's

duracell 2650, to be exact
can anyone in the NYC area bore it out a little for me, for a small fee :whistle:
 

bjn70

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You can try an auto parts store for a "brake cylinder hone", and use your drill to turn it. This will probably take awhile, but at least you don't have to take out much material.

And as has been posted here before, most batteries have a seam down the side where the outside wrapping laps over. When you put the batteries in the holder, turn them so that the thicker sections are not touching the next battery. This will help a little bit.
 

bxstylez

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whoa!

nice output......... i finally did a ROP mod!
i'm using 7aa alkalines, and 1 dummy spacer
b/c i heard thats recommended

should i go ahead and add the extra aa, making it 8
or will it blow the bulb?
 

LumenHound

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bxstylez said:
whoa!

nice output......... i finally did a ROP mod!
i'm using 7aa alkalines, and 1 dummy spacer
b/c i heard thats recommended

should i go ahead and add the extra aa, making it 8
or will it blow the bulb?
If your powering the ROP LOW bulb you would likely flash the bulb with 8 cells.
8 fresh alkalines may not sag down much below 9 volts during a one minute run on a 1.8~1.9 amp load. That's a lot of overdrive for the Pelican bulb.
The ROP HIGH bulb's 4+ amp draw will cause the voltage of those alkalines to sag so much and quickly heat up due to their high internal resistance that it wouldn't be safe to risk it.
 

bxstylez

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i see, i see

so i should just stick with 7aa?
whats the avg. runtime with 7aa fresh alkalines, vs. 7nimh's (2400mah)?

thanks everyone
 

NikolaTesla

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Flash the bulb? Get 8 cell unit 4 boared and AWR regulator. No Flashing or dimming. Ever. Recharchable. PERFECT white color till beams snaps off when regulator cuts off battery to protect it. Lights that dim get yellolw then brown and die slowly. Obsolete. Bulb NEVER Flashes cuz regulator limits startup surge....
 

LumenHound

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NikolaTesla said:
Flash the bulb? Get 8 cell unit 4 boared and AWR regulator. No Flashing or dimming. Ever. Recharchable. PERFECT white color till beams snaps off when regulator cuts off battery to protect it. Lights that dim get yellolw then brown and die slowly. Obsolete. Bulb NEVER Flashes cuz regulator limits startup surge....
And what would the cost of the quad bored host plus a AWR regulator come to delivered?
Does Five Mega take on individual plain factory-finish host quad boring requests or must one anti up for a deluxe refinished/grooved head/milled battery tube host?
 

NikolaTesla

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As far as the individual bored out lights.... Not sure but Litho123 may have some in stock.. We almost ready on a new order of the 4D Li-Ion cells- unfortunately thats what it takes to get that kind of power density into a M@glite to deliver that much light. Latest technology is on the very edge battery wise but VERY neat. Light doubles well as a heat shrink tool, cigarette lighter and marshmellow cooker... The regulate M@g switch, KIU socket, AWR regulator combo- Litho123 has complete or AWR as DIY kits. Five Mega- gotta PM him. We have gotten a lot of that custom bored stuff for our Hot Rod lights and he has been most accomadating. Great workon FM's part.

I the only negative thing I can say about being involved with the project is that ONCE you Have one of these M@G super-torches is that you do not ever want to go backwards. A M@G 85 just aint the same- not even close.:drool:
Super Reflector and coated glass lens are a must too. TOOOOO much Light!
 

NikolaTesla

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Still around, still prototype stage. Think there is maybe 4 of them. They work good. But there are quite many bored M@g bodies. There are far better cell soultions for the M@G's like CPB 2000 batteries- 4/5 A size- you stuff alot of them in there- You need to tri-bore the light to get them to fit. AWR has a DIY variable holder you gen get to- it lends it self to being made in any lenght very simply. Think out side the box. AA cells are puny. "A" cells put out way more current for the high watt bulbs. They diameter is greater, used in RC model stuff alot that is high powered motor driven.

Another answer to the original topic is: Use a lathe with a boring tool. You need an adjustable holding chuck for the M@G body and take it slowly. Don't take off to much inside or you end up with a scrap tube. Better is Cincinatti CNC milling machine if you want a 100 of them.:D
 

Glass

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I had problems with my 8aa holder getting stuck tightly inside the light. So, I took all the internals out of my 2D Mag. I put the ned cap back on it and stood it on it's tail in a container of water and baking soda. I then poured diluted drain cleaner into the battery tube. I let it set for about ten minutes, agitating it periodically. aftrerward, I rinsed it out and dried it.

It did a good job of removing the ano from the inside which gave a few extra thousandths of clearance. Now my 8aa battery holder slides out on its own.

Patrick
 
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