Any suggestions for oil change pump?

I've just become aware of oil change pumps which look like they'd make the job much easier those times I don't have to change the filter too. There are models running from $25 through $60 and up.
Does anyone out there have experience or recommendations for these things?

It really depends on the layout of your car's oil pan. Some motors don't have a good shot from the dipstick on down, other cars it works great on. Like VW 4 cyl watercooled to ~1998 you can actually get another 1/2 qt out by evac'ing it with a vacuum system. It's also mostly standard practice in lots of ski and pleasure boats.

I've only done it with the comercial evac unit at my old work, but it worked great. The pump for vacuum one seems like it might be a bit of a pain, especially with the little hoses usually needed it takes quite a bit of time to get it all out.

Another idea may be to search Marine based companies, boats that remain in the water use pumps opposed to draining for obvious reasons..
Good luck!

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200008074&R=200008074
This is a nice hand pump I have one I can move two gallons in about 2 min.I think the one I have is a double action.
C

I have a had pump pella unit and really like it. I have to say though if you don't change the filter your leaving a quart or so of "dirty" oil in there.

To me at least, changing the filter is important as changing the oil. I live through the pain. My old Mazda was a nightmare, barely could reach the filter and you couldn't see it. The Jeep's great, though. Could do it blindfolded.

Been using a hand vaccum pump for about 6 years now, bought at Griots I believe. Slip the tube down the oil dipstick tube, pump the handle a few times and up comes the oil into the unit which will hold about 6 quarts or so. I bought this to use for my Volvo since it's so low to the ground that I couldn't get to the oil pan drain plug. Works nice and durable but expensive compared to other units I've seen though the quality makes up for the price.

Please note, Oil/Liquid Extractor is not compatible with these models:
1999 - 2003 Corvette
1999 - 2001 TransAm
Late model GM/V-8 engines
2000 - 2002 Ford SUV's (Explorer, Expedition, Excursion, Mountaineer)
2000 Ford Taurus
1992 - 1994 Toyota Camry
2002 - newer Porsche Carrera (dry sump oil system)

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10122

I'd much rather just get under my vehicle and do it the old fashioned way. I ALWAYS change the filter when I change the oil. To me, not changing the filter is like taking a shower and putting on the dirty underwear I just took off. Heck, a new filter for my truck is only $3.49. Another reason to just get under my vehicle and drain it directly out of the pan, is I have to get under there anyway to lube the chassis. I think a lot of people forget to do that. (except for vehicles that don't have grease zerks)

I use a Fumoto valve w/nipple, short length of hose, and gravity. Quick, clean, an I get ta stare at clouds from the creeper.

I figure I would drain more yucky stuff from the oil pan by doing it the old fashioned way, via the drain plug.

Thanks for all the inputs everyone. Much appreciated...

Several years ago, I purchased the vacuum pump type oil extractor as pictured in TedTheLed's post. I use it to change the oil in my boat's twin Mercruiser Ford 351 inboard engines. Over the years I have tried the drill pump types and the 12 volt electric pumps. They work, but they are a messy and a big hassle getting them primed and the oil flow started, and dealing with long stiff hoses. A friend let me use his vacuum pump type oil extrator, and it was a dream to use. I immediately purchased my own. It is now almost enjoyable to change oil. Believe me, if you are going to change your own oil, this is the way to go.

My company provided each road mechanic with the oil suckers powered by compressed air supply. The major advantage to using oil suckers as opposed to placing a drainpan and removing the drain plug is it is impossible to forget to reinstall or tighten the drainplug. Industrial lift trucks are frequently operated as close to 24 hours a day as possible in order to get their investment back. Unfortunately not all lifttruck operators are as concerned and the appearance of an oil trail everywhere they go is of little to no consequence to them. Their logic?? If this one dies I get a new one.
Oh and we NEVER drain the oil and fail to also replace the oil filter. As several people pointed out the oil filter catches most of the contaminates and just putting new oil in just contaminates that new oil.

I bought one of the 12v units. It would barely pump a cup a minute. And this was hot oil.

Total crap.

It I had it to do over I would get a vacuum unit. Maybe an air-powered vacuum unit...

double post

I have this one http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/81053/10001/170/169/6 it works very good, but it only holds 5 qts.
I also have this one http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45403 it has more capacity but the quality is not as good, the hose that it comes with is useless with hot oil it collapses and blocks itself off.

BTW, I am always able to put more oil in after sucking it out as opposed to draining, so this tells me that sucking is better.