Hello,
Well, my SMJLED into Arc Clone mods went well, but having progressed to VB-16's I find that I am still a total newbie =) I tried to mod in a UX1J to my VB-16 HAIII and while it worked, after a while it would only turn on to a single level (didn't look like max, but somewhere inbetween) and clicking the buttons would slightly increase the output once, and thereafter do nothing. I've contacted Waion to see if there's any hope of getting this repaired by him and currently waiting.
I *think* the problem might have been that the leads off the LED were not trimmed, so that when the reflector (I was using the turbo head) was screwed all the way down, it made the leads (and the wires they were soldered to) touch the heatsink just below the LED, and it shorted something in the circuit...bummer. The Lux I took off there had the leads trimmed real close; if I attempt this in the future I will do the same (didn't do it first time around b/c wanted led to be re-usable if possible). Do you guys think that was the issue? Anyone else tried a VB-16 mod?
Then, I said "forget it" and tried to mod a UX1J into my LiteFlux LF1. I had one UX1J left, but it was a star, so I desoldered the LED's pos and neg leads (what's that clear stuff on them anyway? a clear solder?), and based on some tips from one of PF's sales threads tried to pop the led off. Wasn't working. Then as I was fiddling with it, the LED seemed to twist in the star, so I gave it a good twist - then I noticed that the inside of the LED looked all messed up now. I realized that I was twisting the black housing but not everything else was twisting with it! The bond wires and phosphor had twisted around and probably broke - the LED didn't light up at all anymore. So I desoldered the UX1J from my failed VB-16 experiment and finally got it on the Liteflux (in the process getting some Artic Ceramique on the dome and trying to wipe it off - there's still a thin film visible when the light is on at low). So, now at least the LF1 works - but I'm not 100% sure if it's even bright than stock =D (running it off a 14500).
Okay, final q - got a Red Lux III from PF to mod into a CPF VB-16, and Fred told me I need to electrically isolate it from the rest of the light. I search on this and have a vague sense of why, but no clear idea of how. Should I smear some Ceramique (not sure but I think the one I have is a grease rather than epoxy?) on the bottom of the star? or try to find a Lux I star to use (heard that these are the only ones that are isolated)? or is there an easier way for a hapless modder like me?
Any help is appreciated!! before I get discouraged and chuck all these lights in the trash =)
ps. I'm planning on modding a Red/Orange, and a Royal Blue, into a pair of LR-12W Luxogen CR2's...anything I need to be aware of for these? TIA!
Well, my SMJLED into Arc Clone mods went well, but having progressed to VB-16's I find that I am still a total newbie =) I tried to mod in a UX1J to my VB-16 HAIII and while it worked, after a while it would only turn on to a single level (didn't look like max, but somewhere inbetween) and clicking the buttons would slightly increase the output once, and thereafter do nothing. I've contacted Waion to see if there's any hope of getting this repaired by him and currently waiting.
I *think* the problem might have been that the leads off the LED were not trimmed, so that when the reflector (I was using the turbo head) was screwed all the way down, it made the leads (and the wires they were soldered to) touch the heatsink just below the LED, and it shorted something in the circuit...bummer. The Lux I took off there had the leads trimmed real close; if I attempt this in the future I will do the same (didn't do it first time around b/c wanted led to be re-usable if possible). Do you guys think that was the issue? Anyone else tried a VB-16 mod?
Then, I said "forget it" and tried to mod a UX1J into my LiteFlux LF1. I had one UX1J left, but it was a star, so I desoldered the LED's pos and neg leads (what's that clear stuff on them anyway? a clear solder?), and based on some tips from one of PF's sales threads tried to pop the led off. Wasn't working. Then as I was fiddling with it, the LED seemed to twist in the star, so I gave it a good twist - then I noticed that the inside of the LED looked all messed up now. I realized that I was twisting the black housing but not everything else was twisting with it! The bond wires and phosphor had twisted around and probably broke - the LED didn't light up at all anymore. So I desoldered the UX1J from my failed VB-16 experiment and finally got it on the Liteflux (in the process getting some Artic Ceramique on the dome and trying to wipe it off - there's still a thin film visible when the light is on at low). So, now at least the LF1 works - but I'm not 100% sure if it's even bright than stock =D (running it off a 14500).
Okay, final q - got a Red Lux III from PF to mod into a CPF VB-16, and Fred told me I need to electrically isolate it from the rest of the light. I search on this and have a vague sense of why, but no clear idea of how. Should I smear some Ceramique (not sure but I think the one I have is a grease rather than epoxy?) on the bottom of the star? or try to find a Lux I star to use (heard that these are the only ones that are isolated)? or is there an easier way for a hapless modder like me?
Any help is appreciated!! before I get discouraged and chuck all these lights in the trash =)
ps. I'm planning on modding a Red/Orange, and a Royal Blue, into a pair of LR-12W Luxogen CR2's...anything I need to be aware of for these? TIA!
