How do you remove a stock Maglite switch?

I have a 3D Maglite that I want to remove the stock switch, I can't seem to find how you do this. Apparently you need an allen wrench? Can anyone instruct me how you do this? Thanks.

Remove the cap, stick the allen wrench in the hole and turn it counter-clockwise. If it turns very easily, you didn't find the set screw, push the hex wrench in further and repeat. Reverse above for reassembly.

If it's not clear ...
try these instructions with pictures

iamerror said:

I have a 3D Maglite that I want to remove the stock switch, I can't seem to find how you do this. Apparently you need an allen wrench? Can anyone instruct me how you do this? Thanks.

Click to expand...

I completely dissassembled a 3C Maglite and a Magcharger in the office one night without the use of any tools. Don't really remember what I did though, it was a few months ago.

Just be aware, the allen screw you are loosening is on the opposite side of the light from the switch cover. You have to use the long side of most allen wrenches to reach it. Sometimes the switch sticks in place a little even after the screw is loose. I use the wrench in the hole to rock the switch side to side to break it loose when this happens to me. BTW, the correct size wrench needed is 5/64".

Thanks for the help, I should hopefully be able to figure it out now.

My 2C Mag has a brass retaining ring screwed in keeping the switch assembly in the body. Small pointy screwdriver was enough to unscrew and remove it. Then the switch assembly could slide out as per instructions.

Cheers.

which end does the switch come out of - front or rear?

Rear if I recall correctly. I think there is a visible ring inside the light barrel. But it's been a few years so….

I have the above lower resistance switch in a metallic blue 4 D cell incan with the 3-6 D cell Malkoff XPG2 drop in with a UCL lens of course. Changing the switch was surprisingly easy. The resulting beam profile is wider than my house. All you need is a LONG allen key.

How do you get the switch back into a 4D so the button lines up with the hole?
Can't turn it in the barrel, way too tight. Unless I tap the plastic with a screwdriver thru the hole?

And when its only 90% lined up with the hole, the switch won't pop back to OFF.
Something going on with how far the setscrew is tighted down? Obviously it can't stick out far enough to scrape the barrel. But then its barely thru the threads of the nut.

Do they use a pointed screw so there is minimal friction if it does rotate against the barrel?

I rotated it the last bit, gouging the plastic.
Then I had to pound it in the last 1/8" or less.
But the switch still won't pop up...
setscrew adjustment wrong ???
How can you tell before you stick it back in?

... what a struggle. Random success.
Now the switch doesn't want to pop out (turn off) but does when I insert the hex key. What is the trick to the correct tightness of the nut? Instructions say to loosen 3 turns, but that's no good once it has been randomized cleaning the switch. How many turns backed off from fully tightened?

Now, that's a good video. He needs to put a little lube on them tailcap threads though. What he calls the "back thingy".

bykfixer said:

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His switch easily falls down & rotates in the barrel. Mine does not. I have to push it in with a stick.