5 minute Epoxy

When you guys use this stuff, do you use paper or something to make a tray so that it doesn't just flow down everywhere and onto the table?

If so, does the paper stick to the epoxy? Is there something that I can use to shape the epoxy while it's setting, and remove it later?

Thanks.

YC

yclo,
if you're talking about a release agent kind of thing, then the easiest way is to spray the "mould" with WD-40. Throw off the excess liquid, then leave it to completely dry out.
You're left with a very fine film of dry-lubricant which will stop most things sticking to it, but allow a microscopically close fit.
Often, if you do that in a metal container, just using warm water will break it free from apparently sealed-up.

Depending on the shape, foil can be used as a mould.
Or if there is a particular situation, then "Scotchtape" or "Sellotape", or cling-film can hold a shape, using foil or foam to keep it in a form, without really taking up much space if you leave it in situ.

I always use a foil or paper worksurface for mixing two-part adhesives. It's important to stir all the stuff very well.
Y'know, I read that most of those glues need a mix of 99.95% accuracy to develop their full properties.
I go as far as scraping the stirrer along the base of the blob of adhesive, to try and keep the mix accurate, because most of them seem to have very low viscosity at that point.

lightlover

Hey, no wonder it doesn't work, some very respectable person moved my topic.. Ok, it was my fault anyway for posting that in the led forum. But I was using the epoxy on my torch, seriously!

Jahn - Thanks, that was all I needed to know. Do I have to wait for the WD-40 to dry completely in order for it to work?


YC

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by *something ridiculous ?:

It's important to stir all the stuff very well. Y'know, I read that most of those glues need a mix of 99.95% accuracy to develop their full properties.
lightlover<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Jahn,

I didn't realize that. Are you familiar with Devcon "2 Ton" epoxy? I believe it was one of the first epoxys commonly available, and I use it almost exclusively, but I've never seen it in a dual tube. The only dual tube epoxys I've come across are either 5 minute or something other than that original super strength product. I'd love to find a dual tube version of this product; have you ever seen one, or do you know of a similar, equally strong-bonding epoxy that comes in a double tube?

Cheers, old chap
Brightnorm

Wax paper, mold release wax, parifin, even automotive wax can be used as a release agent for the epoxy. With a parifin or candle wax, you can shape moulds, make dams, etc. There is a fabric called peel-ply that looks like linen and excess resin can be worked through it. When the epoxy has cured, the peel ply can be pulled off leaving a even textured surface ( simulated knurl).

- Don

I often use masking tape for most of the above mentioned purposes; Sometimes use kids modeling clay or that non-hardening strip caulk (can't think of its real name) for making dams etc.

masking tape and wax paper are my favorites, but I've used automotive wax on metal forms as well. Shaping the stuff JUST as it sets up is an art, but is sometimes the only way to achieve some results.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by brightnorm:
The only dual tube epoxys I've come across are either 5 minute or something other than that original super strength product. I'd love to find a dual tube version of this product; have you ever seen one, or do you know of a similar, equally strong-bonding epoxy that comes in a double tube? Brightnorm<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I have used Devcon, & it is very good. For the 2 tube stuff, I would highly recomend JB Weld. It has about 24 hr cure. They also make a "rapid" version (about 4 hrs to cure), but I haven't tried it. TX

Both Devcon and JB Weld are very good products for most general repairs.

There are times, though, that I've had to bring out the "big gun".

I've had excellent service using Pig Putty on a couple of pretty darn critical applications.
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>
PIG® Concrete Repair Putty
---------------------------------------------
Sets rock hard and looks like concrete, too!

PIG® Concrete Repair Putty Pre-measured, 2-part epoxy-eliminates the guesswork when mixing. Working time of 4 minutes-cures in 60 minutes. Can be drilled, sanded, sawed, carved, stained or painted.

Additional Specifications

dielectric strength : 300 volts/mil (11.7 kv/mm) @ 0.125" (3.2 mm)
shelf life : Min 24 months at 75 F (24 C)
work life, minutes : 4-7
hardness (shore D) : 75-85
compression strength : 12,000 psi (83 mPa)
temp continuous : 250 F (121 C)
temp intermittent : 300 F (149 C)
shrinkage : Less than 1% <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I've used it to shim a couple of machinery shafts, repair a bearing seat for a high-temp oil pump. I can't forget patching the crankcase of a racing motorcycle when the chain snapped and smacked a hole into the case near the countershaft sprocket. The bike survived two more 6 hour endurance races, as well as a 12 hour. Only when a rider augered in but good did the bike be parted out.

Also, I actually repaired the nose of the crankshaft and keyway when the crank sprocket went "Tango Uniform". 63,000 miles so far, and you'd never known that the engine almost suffered a catastrophic failure.

Don,
I think this "pig iron" is past the point of being classed as a 2 tube epoxy... TX

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by txwest:

I have used Devcon, & it is very good. For the 2 tube stuff, I would highly recomend JB Weld. It has about 24 hr cure. They also make a "rapid" version (about 4 hrs to cure), but I haven't tried it.

Click to expand...

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

txwest and DonL,

I appreciate your responses. JB Weld sounds more appropriate for my purpose which involves very small, actually tiny pieces of hardwood under extremely high stress. That "weld" part of JB Weld makes me wonder about its applicability to wood. What do you think?

Brightnorm

Click to expand...

The package says it's good for wood, but it wouldn't be my 1st choice. I don't know of any 2 part epoxy that's primary use is for wood. For what you're looking for, I would suggest Gorilla Glue. Do a Google on the name & you'll get plenty of info. Or just go to www.gorillaglue.com . TX

yclo,
yes, the WD-40 has to completely evaporate. Once the carrier, (white spirit, I believe) has dried, the coating of dry lube left is a very thin film, which apparently is quite inert. So it doesn't cling to or mix with the adhesive or alter it's properties.

brightnorm,
even with a double syringe type packing, it's difficult to approach a 0.05% equality of mix. I think one just has to accept that the adhesive will work as specified - when used by a professional. As an amateur, you're just guaranteed that "your results may differ".
I guess that close to ultimate properties is as best as we can manage.

Surely a product specific to wood is appropriate for you - after all, there are some which are "stronger than the wood itself".

Silviron,
are you thinking of "Plasticine" ?

lightlover