Flashlights Polished vs. Coated

NewBie

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For some time now, there has been some mis-information that folks here on CPF have been mislead on.

It has been stated that the various coatings on flashlights have no effect on the temperature of the flashlights.

So, I ordered some 0.750" diameter AL 6063 rod stock to prepare an actual test to demonstrate the difference.

The reason, is contrary to one of my old posts, where I publically calculated the difference, and how much more cooling a high emissivity coating has as compared to a low emissivity polished surface- some members still claimed I was wrong.

To do a real world test, in order to show the reality of things, I matched up two blue LEDs that are matched to within 0.04V of each other.

I took the rod, and cut two pieces, each to 1.735" long.

I bored holes into the side of each piece, 0.375" deep, for K-type 42 guage thermocouples.

Both pieces were polished up a little, but not nearly anywhere near a perfect mirror finish.

One was coated with black paint, the other was left bare.

The contenders:

alvsblk.jpg
alvspol.jpg


Each were handled to get fingerprints and some finger print oil on the surface, much like a flashlight in the real world. If you look at the polished one, please don't lift my fingerprints!

The LEDs were wired in series, each is getting 1000mA on the nose.

The bored holes were filled with thermal paste, to get a more accurate reading.

The LED on the Black one is 40mV higher than the other, so the temperature would technically be slightly higher, if everything was equal- due to the higher power in the LED.

Both LEDs were directly mounted with Artic Alumina thermally conductive epoxy, cured under pressure, over night.

After 20 minutes, when things stabilized, the temperatures for the bare one:

alpvsb.jpg



And then I transferred the same thermocouple and measured and photographed the black one:

alwvsb2.jpg



As you can see, the temperatures are obviously 17.4 degrees C cooler for the black one. Which also works out to a 63.32 degrees F difference.

No surprises here.


.


I then set each down on the surface, to help reduce the added cooling of chimney effect, let things cool and repeated the same test.

First the polished one:

alpvsb1.jpg



Next the black one:
alpvsb2.jpg



As you can obviously see, there is a 20C degree difference between the two now. This works out to a 68 degree F difference.

After 1 hour, the temperatures still read the same, so they had thermally stabilized.

Ambient temperatures in both cases remained at 20.6C.

.


So, in short, using a coating with a higher emissivity has a pretty drastic effect, reducing temperatures by 65 degrees Fahrenheit in the example shown.

This reduction of temperature would cause the die to run cooler, making it more efficient, and producing more light out of the flashlight.

If I had fully polished the bare Aluminum to a mirror finish, the bare one would have performed even worse in comparision.

If the surface area was greater (larger, such as is more common flashlights) than what is found on this 0.750" diameter 1.735" long rod , the temperature differential would be even greater, since the semi-polished aluminum has a very low thermal emissivity ~5%, as compared to the ~95% emissivity of black paint, and emissivity depends heavily on surface area.

Regular anodized Aluminum has an emissivity of ~77.6%

Hard Anodize, Type III, has an emissivity of 83.5% to 85.6% depending on the color, for typical specimens, and this will vary a bit for the quality and thickness of the coating.

Keep in mind, that if the light was tiny, like the Fenix P1, or smaller yet like the CR2 Ion, the cooling provided by a hand would be dominant, but it would still heat up much the same when set down on a surface.

The effects in a Flashlight would be even worse, since the whole flashlight is not a solid core of aluminum, and there are thermal resistances in the path, which would cause the area near the LED, and especially the LED die to run much hotter.

If the flashlight had heavy deep knurling, the surface area would also be greater, which would benefit the black painted one even further than the polished one. I've seen the effect in a thermal camera many times before.


I hope you had as much fun reading over this as I did doing the demonstration.


.
 
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shiftd

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Wow Jar, nice write up :thumbsup:

It is interesting to discover these facts. So Shiny aluminum performs worse in dissipate heat if left alone, compared to HA?
What if the flashlight is held by hand (as would a real life use would be), would the difference in temperature still that prominent?
 

will

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A very interesting post. I have a couple of questions.

1. Was the black paint flat or glossy. It would seem to me that flat would have a greater surface area, thus radiating more heat.

2. If the light was a complete light, should the part that holds the emitter be painted as well as the light itself?

years back there was a lot of research done on home heating systems that had radiators, some thought silver color was more efficient than black, some said unpainted, and yet others suggested white. I do not believe there was any clear winner in that debate.
 

rdh226

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Ideally, you'll swap the two LEDs and rerun the experiment . . .

Still, gotta love the empirical reality of measured numbers!

Nice post!

Um, Will, why would flat paint (of any color) have more surface area?

-RDH
 

LowTEC

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It's good to have you tested on this Newbie. I would have never thought that bare aluminum would be transferring heat any worse than the coating itself. Now, should we anodize the surface between the die and the heat sink? :lolsign:
 

NewBie

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will said:
A very interesting post. I have a couple of questions.

1. Was the black paint flat or glossy. It would seem to me that flat would have a greater surface area, thus radiating more heat.

2. If the light was a complete light, should the part that holds the emitter be painted as well as the light itself?

years back there was a lot of research done on home heating systems that had radiators, some thought silver color was more efficient than black, some said unpainted, and yet others suggested white. I do not believe there was any clear winner in that debate.


Actually, high solids white is within a percent as high solids black. However, polishing is a very, very bad thing for emissivity. Here I didn't polish to a mirror finish on purpose, since even Titanium gets small scratches on it on a keychain.

I used flat black paint, Rustoleum 7778 that I purchased at Lowes. Krylon branded high heat flat black paint is even better yet, but I could not find it at that store.


Thanks Shiftd


If we go back and subtract the ambient temperature from the numbers:
Bare 95.0C - 20.6C = 74.6 C rise
Black 77.6C - 20.6C = 57 C rise

1-(57/77.4)*100= 23.4% cooler for the Black vs. Polished


Laying down:
Bare 101.6C - 20.6C = 81.0 C rise
Black 81.6C - 20.6C = 61 C rise

1-(61/81)*100= 24.7% cooler for the Black vs. Polished


I think the number predicted was 24% back in that way old calculation thread- so not too bad.


Again, if this was a hand-held only light, the human body would act as a liquid cooling scheme, which would cool things down a lot more, unless you had to wear gloves, which is common in much of the US in the winter. Outdoors, where temperatures are even cooler, the delta temperature between the radiator and the ambient is even greater, and the black coated one would benefit even further over polished. The black coated light "sees" a colder "target" to radiate into and the black coated one radiates 17 times better than the polished one.

If you ever get a chance, on two occasions where the outside temperatures are the same, you'll find that a heat source runs cooler on a clear night vs. a cloudy night- especially if it is black. Interesting stuff.
 
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yellow

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I would like to have one of will´s ideas been made more specific:

If there is a host, say any aluminium light, that has been bored out to accomodate the emitter mounted to the heatsink (an alumin. plate)...
would it give a better heat transfer from the sink to the tube if sink is painted?

I would say "no". Direct contact with as much surface as possible has to be better,
but then the outside of the completed mod be painted, thats what I understand.

right?
 

will

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rdh226 said:
Ideally, you'll swap the two LEDs and rerun the experiment . . .

Still, gotta love the empirical reality of measured numbers!

Nice post!

Um, Will, why would flat paint (of any color) have more surface area?

-RDH

Ok - it seems like a dumb question - a smooth glossy finish is completely level, giving it a glossy finish. A flat finish has something added to it to give it a bumpy finish, which scatters the light, resulting in a non reflective finish. The non reflective finish, due to the 'bumps' would have a greater surface area. the greater surface area would radiate more heat away. Picture a piece of glass 12 inches square and a piece of very rough sandpaper 12 inches square. The glass can only radiate from the smooth surface, the sandpaper from all the peaks and valleys of the sand, which would be more than the glass. Kinda like fins on paint.

I am going to guess that different types of paint would react differently, Lacquer vs enamel vs polyurethane vs dura coat vs powder coat.
 

3rd_shift

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:goodjob:

This is the kind of info that can have quite an effect on designing future thermal dissipation solutions for electronic devices.
Not just lights, but also other high heat electronics as well. :wow:
 

Polar_Hops

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Wow, that is pretty impressive, with a temperature difference of 67 deg. F, I would think this would be used by more flashlight manufacturers.
 

asdalton

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will said:
The non reflective finish, due to the 'bumps' would have a greater surface area. the greater surface area would radiate more heat away.

The effect of roughness on radiative heat transfer is not reducible to the increase in surface area. If the outer surface of the metal were immersed in a liquid under stagnant or laminar flow conditions (turbulent flow gets more complicated), then degree of polishing of a metal surface would have no effect on the heat transfer, which in this case would be dominated by conduction and convection.

For radiative heat transfer--which is always the dominant mechanism of heat transfer in air unless you are cooling with a fan--a rough surface acts as a better approximation of an array of ideal radiating cavities than a polished surface does. This is the microscopic mechanism that leads to a different emissivities for different surface treatments.
 

asdalton

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NewBie-

Thanks for running this experiment. :thumbsup:

One minor quibble: A 20 C temperature difference is actually a 36 F difference, not 68 F. When converting temperature differences, as opposed to straight temperatures, the 32 degree offsets cancel out.
 

Curious_character

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Thanks very much for taking the time to set up and document the demonstration. I'm sorry I missed the post with the calculation. I've always thought about radiative transfer as dominating only at relatively high temperatures, but I see now that's not true if the convective transfer is bad enough.

I did spot one error in your analysis, the C - to - F conversion. The conversion factor is exactly 9/5 (the ratio of the degree sizes), so

a 17.4 degree C change is a 31.32 degree F change, not 63.32
a 20 degree C change is a 36 degree F change, not 68.

Great job - thanks!

c_c
 

Radio

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NewBie said:
Each were handled to get fingerprints and some finger print oil on the surface, much like a flashlight in the real world. If you look at the polished one, please don't lift my fingerprints!

Too late, running through NCIC as we speak!!!! :laughing:


Great work!


:buddies:
 

IsaacHayes

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Ok that's it I'm building me a solid copper light with the led directly soldered to the head. The head and body being one peice, and spray painting it flat black with my high temp krylon engine paint I have :D Should be good for some extra free lumens no? :D
 

nikon

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Is it possible that the black paint is acting as an insulator, thereby reading a lower temperature? if you painted half of one piece black and left the other half unpainted, would the temperature differential remain the same?
 
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