Surefire Lego

Guys,

I almost took the plunge on a used SF E1E yesterday, with the half-assed idea of using it to play SF Lego with, and then realised I don't know a hella lot about this Lego business.

If one were to build a SF light, what would be a good place to start? I'm not dead set against incan bulbs, but LED has its advantages. I have a 6P, so a SF LED light would be good.

Is it better to buy separate parts and build a light, or just buy a light out of the box? I'm thinking a KL4 head to start, and maybe a Vital Gear body (2 cell). I'd like to end up with a 2 stage light like the L2 if possible.

Any advice you SF experts can offer will be greatly appreciated...

The best place to start if you're a LED kinda person would be a Surefire L4, you'd get the KL4 head, the two cell E series body and a E series switch.

Then all u'd need is a E1E body or a VG single cell body then u'd get a TW4 (with a rechargeable CR123 in it of course)

For two stage u'd need to get your hands on a two stage switch, have a look at the BST forums or the sandwich shoppe http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/
For the E Series body.

And then it goes down from here

Hey, thanks...

You say start with an L4? Would it not be cheaper to buy the parts separately? I've seen the KL4 head listed for $59 on Lighthound. Then you can get a body for around $36 I think. What do those two stage switches go for? I suppose you'll end up in the same place eventually. Unless you get a used body...

If I bought an L4 I'd be too busted to do anything else for some time to come

Is Lighthound the only place that sells the bits separately? Apart from here, that is...

I highly doubt the KL4 was $59. It must have been the KL1.

Look here on B/S/T, check out eBay, and Lighthound and OpticsHQ.com are great sites for Surefire legos.

I think both the E-series and C-series are great for legos. I have so many interchangeable parts for my C-series lights now... oh yeah, quite a few lego parts for my Kroma too.

Pick up a KL4 (LuxV/100 lumens) for a great wall of light. Pick up a KL1 for a long-running LED thrower. Pick up an EtoC adapter (Lighthound) and run a KL3 or KL5 on it. Or a C-series head with a P60/61 lamp.

Here's an example of a LEGO Surefire set.

Cree modified KL6
M2 body
Leef C to M adapter



I can give many more examples but I've heard of a KL5 on a E1L body and many other variations. McGizmo also makes the Aleph series which fit on E series bodies so you're not limited to Surefires. An Aleph 19/Cree on an E1L or E2 body is going to give you the brightest lights in the smallest package.

Showoff!!! :nana: Excellent combo CM.

Bullzeyebill said:

I play around with my KL5 on an E1e body. Nice looking combo and full regulation too. Everytime my wife sees it, it disappears for awhile.

Bill

Click to expand...

That's the light I was referring to in my post above. You need to post some pictures! Before your wife gets a hold of it again :nana:

I play around with my KL5 on an E1e body. Nice looking combo and full regulation too. Everytime my wife sees it, it disappears for awhile.

Bill

WTF? What's with this "clairvoyant" posts lately with CPF? One would think my post came before Bullzeyebill but,,,,,never mind. The time stamping must be really effed up!

CM said:

Cree modified KL6
M2 body
Leef C to M adapter

Click to expand...

You know, I sure wouldn't want that thing hanging off my pocket, but it does look really cool.

Time stamp is totally off. A few minutes or so ago CPF said 12:42, and my clock on cable control said 11:33(PM). There a way to get CPF clock accurate?

Bill

Buffalohump said:

I have a 6P, so a SF LED light would be good.

Click to expand...

E series components are a different size, you cannot mix and match with your current 6P.
The quickest and cheaper way to SF lego is to get a KL3 or KL5, to replace your 6P bezel. Then you will have a 2 cell LED light. Next get a AN19, a 1 cell extender, to lengthen your 6P body into a 3 cell body, for a 3 cell LED light.
You can also have a 3 cell incan, if you have the P90 or P91 lamp.

E1E is one of my favourite light and either KL4 or KL1 are logical choice to upgrade. It is a wonderful starting point for another SF lego track.

Buying whole light is cheaper than buying the individual components seperately.

Owen said:

You know, I sure wouldn't want that thing hanging off my pocket, but it does look really cool.

Click to expand...

Definitely not an EDC but for use around the campsite or for "wowing" innocent bystanders, it works very well.

Here's another fugly Surefire Lego construction:



This one gets about three hours in regulation with 2x18650's.

Here's a thread that lists and pictures all SF E-Series compatible parts that are or have been produced:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/64308
bernie

firefly99 said:

Buying whole light is cheaper than buying the individual components seperately.

Click to expand...

Thanks, man, that's basically what I need to know.

Now, next question... L1 or L4?

One has multi-stage, t'other has big output. If I were to REPLACE my 6P with a SF LED, which would do the 6P's job best.

I know this is a hard one, but I think you guys are up to it

Buffalohump said:

Thanks, man, that's basically what I need to know.

Now, next question... L1 or L4?

One has multi-stage, t'other has big output. If I were to REPLACE my 6P with a SF LED, which would do the 6P's job best.

I know this is a hard one, but I think you guys are up to it

Click to expand...

The L1 is too damn dim. The L2 or the L4 with two 2 stage tailcap are much better choices IMHO.

hmmmm.... yes, I suspected as much... which would explain why they are sold out all over town. And a lovely one just got snatched up over on B/S/T... chaps move like lightning on these items.

Mayhap I will just have to pick up a new one when Lighthound have them in again.

The two stage switch is from the Shoppe I take it? Is it a McGizmo part?

I find the Shoppe a little tricky to navigate but I'm sure Wayne will advise...

:goodjob:

Buffalohump said:

Now, next question... L1 or L4?

One has multi-stage, t'other has big output. If I were to REPLACE my 6P with a SF LED, which would do the 6P's job best.

I know this is a hard one, but I think you guys are up to it

Click to expand...

I would suggest an L4, as it is Lego-able (if that is a word), where the L1 is not...since you started this thread asking about parts intercompatibility, remember the L1 and L2 do not interchange with anything. The L4, as suggested above, is a great choice. I have been very pleased with mine.

Buffalohump said:

If I were to REPLACE my 6P with a SF LED, which would do the 6P's job best.

Click to expand...

A KL5 would fit nicely on your 6P body.

KL3 and KL5 are for the C, P, Z, G series, while the KL1 and KL4 are for the E series.

L4 is actually a E2E + KL4.