Ok, I'll talk about my car here.... after all, my wife says I'm good at that.
I drive a 1999 Ford Escort ZX2 (called simply ZX2 after the Escort name was dropped in 2001)
The model name broken down means
Z etec engine,
2 door, Generation
X (great marketing, huh?
Anyways, this vehicle has a base price of $12,600.00 and includes Ford's 2.0 liter Zetec engine sporting Dual Overhead Cams, and 4 valves per cylinder producing 130hp & 129lb/ft torque at the flywheel (not a lot, but just wait). The creation of the ZX2 was basically a response to the Honda / Import tuners out there making 4cyl cars perform closer to the big-brother V8s commonly seen as "sports cars". The 2.0L engine in the ZX2 sends it down the 1/4 mile in approx. 15.8 sec for a 5spd manual, and approx. 16.5 sec in a four spd auto. It's not the fastest car on the block, but its acceleration is comprable to that of the Cavalier Z-24/ Sunfire GT sporting 2.4L DOHC 16v engines with 150hp, and costing up to $5000.00 more. Also, the ONLY model of Honda Civic (the import enthusiast's weapon of choice) that can compete with the ZX2 in terms of acceleration & handling is the Civic Si model available only during certain model years, and sporting 160hp (!) costing nearly if not more than $20,000.00. (!!!) Naturally, this is in part due to the Civic's 1.6 liter engine. The really is no replacement for displacement, and the poor Torque figures of the B16A (Civic Si) engine speak volumes.
Right now I ESTIMATE 145-150 hp at the crank on my car with the modifications I have performed. These include (performance-wise) a K&N high-flow air filter, cut factory air intake w/ 5" inlet, removal of resonators along intake path (noise killers) and an idea first tested by a member of the ZX2.com forums. I have 2 variable resistors installed in my driver's side door that are wired into the signal path between the Intake Air Temperature sensor (AIT), the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (ECT) and the car's Engine Control Unit (ECU... this is the "computer" that controls ignition timing / performance / emissions/ etc.....)
Basically, the ECT & AIT pots allow me to fool my ECU into thinking that something is happening when it isn't. The AIT pot when turned up fools the ECU into thinking it's drawing in colder, denser air than it really it. This results in more fuel being added to the combustion chamber, which naturally, creates more power. The ECT pot on the other hand causes a similar response from the ECU by fooling it into thinking the engine is still cold, when it is not. The advantage to this is that the engine will advance the spark timing, which means more power. There are disadvantages to this too, however. Both of these mods require use of premium fuel (which here in Omaha means 91 octane at most filling stations.) I have best luck avoiding the dreaded "pinging" (spark knock) with 92 octane fuel which is only available at the overpriced Amoco stations around town. Also, the ECT pot prevents the engine's cooling fan from turning on, so watch that temp gauge!!!! (after all, your computer now thinks the engine is COLD)
Of course, with the flashaholic in my blood, no car would be complete without auxilliary lighting. Aside from the 55/65w headlamps, I have factory installed foglamps upgraded from 35w to 50w, along with 4 (YES, 4!!!) 55w bulbs burning in aftermarket fog/spot lamps. (2 spot 2 fog) Of course the factory lamps are activated my remote control as any gadget freak should have.
Also, my stock turn signals have upgraded bulbs as well with a blue filtered coating causing a very unnatural white appearance from 35w (yes you read correctly) high (blinking) filiments. If anyone can post pics, I'll gladly email some.
Ok, I'm done. You lucked out though. I've been known to talk about my car for HOURS at a time.
