need help!

I thought that you guys in the modding forum would be able to help me the most with this.

I think I have everything in the right order and ever bit of hardware that is needed. Although crude it works, my picture represents something like* a SF L series light but just for show. MY questions are.
What is the purpose for both a driver/PCB and the star part at the base of a light emmiter?
I am going to try to mod a dorcy metal gear 1W to accept a Cree XR-E but I lack the know how to know what to do! Will the provided PCB work with the Cree?
Also another question I have is for the heatsinks,
What is the purpose of it? the dorcy m.g. does not have one so is it a platform to mount multiple leds on?
I think this is enough questions for now, I'll wait to bug you guys about current measurements, calculations and other stuff in another post.

The picture is correct.

The PCB has cirsuits to step the voltage up or down (depending on the circuit) to match the needs of the LED.

The star is just a convenient way to mount an LED. It has an integrated heatsink.

The heatsink is a way to move the heat from the LED to the body of the light. This keeps the LED from over-heating.

I don't know if the Dorcy circuit will produce sufficient voltage and current for a different LED. If the luxeon is on a star, the code on the back will tell you the voltage range that the luxeon needed.

Daniel

Hello msm

So far I know is the Led in your Dorcy mounted on a piece of plastic. This would I change against a piece of aluminium or copper with contact to the body of the light, to optimize the heat transfer.
The rest should work like you want.

I wish you good luck and a bright light at the end.

Best regards

____
Tom

In my dorcy, the positives wires are the only ones there, because the negative electrode on the led is attached to a thin strip of metal, (heatsink? it is underneath the star) and after assembly the metal "coin" touches the tube thereby completing the circuit. If I were to put in a new PCB like the nflex or any of the others that would suit my needs and fit in the tube already, I could omit both of the negative contact points on the PCB by going the same route that the original had done? Correct?