USL Production Updates...Part 2

This is a continuation of this thread:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1737827#post1737827

Hi Bill, just wanted to be the first to post in the new thread.

Oh, and this may be a dumb question, but, is there any way to get in on the USL list yet?

I could not find where to check out the details of the USL light, but after seeing one (or two) at PF7, I think I may be interested in one if you are still building them. Just point me in the right direction please.

PS: By the way, it was nice meeting you.

Well, mine is on its' way and, when it arrives, awaaaaaay we go!!! Hey Bill, how was it shipped?


Karl

All USL's are shipped Priority Mail with insurance, unless another shipping method is requested.

Bill

Bill, forgot to PP the postage for the Triton until now. PP sent to the address you gave me just now. Sorry for the delay.

No worries!

I'm not going to stress a few days of shipping charges hanging when everyone has been so patient about the lights!!!

Thanks!!

Bill

OK. I prepped four battery packs today and made up a charging pigtail to replace the one I messed up making the first USL of this batch (I cut the leads too short ). So I am all set to make up the other four USL's tomorrow before I go to work and then be able to pack them up to ship off to Bill Monday afternoon. I will post some pictures of the assembly process and talk briefly about the design of the USL (and why I think it's way cool--err, no make that way HOT!).

Alright, as promised, here are some photos. Before my shift I finished all the soldering and assembly necessary to slide the battery pack and "can" into the body of the light. I have talked about the construction of the USL before in my Battery construction details & History of the USL thread, and you can feel free to check out the link, but the short version of it is this: the design minimizes resistance throughout by using a single welded pack with low resistance joints, a low resistance electronic grade rocker switch, and by directly soldering all other connections except for the ceramic socket which is held by the can, and into which the lamp leads are pushed. These connections are the only ones that are not very low resistance, but that can't be avoided of course.

Thus, the strengths of the USL are also its weaknesses: because the pack is a single welded pack, if one cell goes bad, the whole pack must be replaced. And because all wire leads are as short as possible, and because the internals are squeezed into a 2D mag lite, the battery pack is not easily replaceable. Ginseng's Aurora and Aurora2 lights have a removeable pack, and AWR's Mag100R has not just a removeable pack, but a "pack" that is in fact a battery holder. There are definitely advantages to these designs. But there are also disadvantages.

Anyway, here is a picture of a USL pack right after I soldered on the ceramic socket lead from the can:



That's the negative contact to which the can lead was soldered. Below and to the right is the positive contact. That white wire lead which is sticking up in the air to the right of the can is the lead which was soldered onto that positive contact.

A side view will make things more clear:



As you can see, the two white leads will be cut to the proper length and then soldered onto the switch leads. So there it is! The heart of the USL. A lower resistance circuit path light you will not find.

That black thing sticking out the back of the pack is the charging connector--what I was calling the "pigtail" earlier. Those wires are also soldered onto the + and - contacts of the battery pack.

Anyway, when I get home tonight I will install the internals into the light bodies and solder the leads wires to the switches, and RTV the packs in place, and let them all dry overnight so that they can be mailed out tomorrow.

Here is a picture of the one completed blue USL (top), a 2nd blue one which has the internals installed but with the switch not soldered to the leads, and three sets of internals which I will install into lights when I get home tonight.



So, that's the update!

OK. Just finished. All 4 USL's are now RTV'd and drying overnight, and I will send them out, along with the already completed one, for a total of 5 USL's going back to Bill in tomorrows mail via USPS priority mail.

Bill, by the way, that teflon coated wire they used in the ceramic halogen lamp holders really, really doesn't like solder that much. It is definitely NOT easy to solder. I wonder if it's due to some chemical on the strands or what. I don't know. But it doesn't take solder very easily, that's for sure. I mean, I was happy with all my solder joints, but it was tricky to make good solder joints with that wire. Next time I think I'll try cleaning the stripped end bits with isopropyl alcohol to see if that makes things nicer. If anyone has any other thoughts, please let me know.

Jim,

I agree!

It is the hardest part of the process.

I am trying to find a different socket, one which allows me to use my own wires.

Anyway, sounds good! I have completed a few more as well and will be trying to ship them as soon as possible. Admittedly, however, my house is even MORE disorganized now, as the carpenters have arrived to replace the kitchen, and sometime in the next 10 days we will have to move out complelely so that they can complete the process and ozone the house. We will be out of the house for 3-5 days during that process.

I'm going to try to ship whatever I can this week, but suspect that Jim's shipment will get here after we get kicked out.

Bill

js

The best way to tin that kind of wire is to dip it right into the acid paste and hit it with a powerful gun like a big Weller gun on high. Keep putting it back in the paste and hitting it with the hot gun and an acid core solder on the wire at the same time. Of course do not let the gun tip over heat and do put the gun tip in the paste occasionally too to keep it clean. The acid will strip the surface of the wire.

I bet you are already doing this but you never know so I offer the process for those that do not know how to deal with that kind of wire.

Cheers
Dave

Thanks Dave!

I know I was not doing that, and it is one of the steps that really slows the build.

Bill

Bill, pkgs arrived in perfect condition! Thanks a million!!

BVH,

Thanks! Data, how about yours?

Bill

Yes, I got mine today and it was in perfect condition. Thanks very much!

If I am charging at .3A with the Triton, what voltage should I be seeing? Do I have to tell the charger how many cells it is charging?


Dave

Data,

I'm not going to use acid core solder! That's more trouble than just dealing with the poor wicking in the first place, I think. But I may try pre-fluxing and heating. and I'll definitely try cleaning with isopropyl alcohol first, and then maybe a bit of sanding. As it is, it will take the solder, but only after a few tries, after the flux has done its work.

Bill,

You won't find a socket that will allow you to use your own wires I don't think. The wires must be welded or brazed onto the spring contacts to withstand the high heat at the socket. I suppose you might find some mechanical attachment method, but it would take up more space than we have, and the can is already specially machined to work with the present socket. I'm sure we can find a method to get better wicking on the wires of the current socket.

Anyway, got the additional bodies in the mail today, so I will be continuing on with my builds, and will keep everyone updated as I go.

Thanks!

js

With acid the wire will tin in just a few seconds. If all you use the acid paste for is to tin the wires and then clean it up afterwords it will not present a problem. Then use your normal solder to connect the tinned wire to the other connections.


Cheers
Dave

Hmmm. OK. That does sound better. What acid paste would you recommend?

Data,

No, you don't need to tell it how many cells, but the menu should be set at 2000mAh so it doesn't run the risk of missing the delta and not stopping the charge. I've never had it happen, but it is a possibility.

It should peak somewhere north of 15 volts, then settle down to 15-16 volts when the charge completes.

Don't forget to rest it a little!

Bill

Bill

Thanks.


js

I use the old paste with Zinc Chloride. You will have to ask a friend who may have a can setting around. It lasts forever.

Otherwise, any modern rosin past will help. What have you been using?


Dave