Opening Fenix AAA Heads (L0P, E1...)

I saw a picture posted that the reflector section unscrews from the collar/emitter section. However, I have not been able to find a post how this was done.

How is a person supposed to grasp the two sections to unscrew them? Is there loctite in there?

Thanks in advance for your replies. I'm going to upgrade to SSC P4

Yep, grab the two sections and twist. Some have LockTite and some don't. Get a couple of strap wrenches and twist hard; that got my E1 open.

Kevin

They make strap wrenches that small?

I got them open. Here is how I did it.

I have some sample "capplugs" from a company by the same name. PVC caps for the ends of rods, etc.

I found two that fit snugly and put them over the opposing ends of the head. I proceeded to clean all the oils off of the outside of the head and inside of the caps and pop them on. Then using pliers, I started turning while squeezing lightly. Gradually I sqeezed tighter until the two parts began unthreading. From there, I could turn them by hand with the caps still on.

This must be how they tune the focus: They put loc-tite in the threads, then turn the reflector assembly down until it reaches the right beam. Then they let the loc-tite cure in that position. Good for them, difficult for me!

hi,

here are some more thoughts on opening the Fenix L0x-heads.

a while ago I tried to open the head of my L0-Ti, but I gave up on it because it didn't move at all and I was too afraid to mess up the finish with more powerful tools. today I read in another thread that EngrPaul has modded a L0-Ti with a SSC P4-LED, so I felt challenged to try again.

here's what I came up with to apply the necessary force and at the same preserve the beautiful finish.
first I cut two pieces from a roadbike inner tube, each of a length to fit on one of the two parts of the head and slipped them on the two sections of the head. then I wrapped the two pieces with seperate strips of duct tape until I reached a thickness of about 20mm. I wrapped as tightly as possible to prevent slippage between the rubber and the head. then I just used two vise grips to grasp the two wrapped sections and unscrew the head. to me it seems almost impossible to mess up the finsh this way, due to the thick layers of duct tape. still you can apply a lot of torque and break the loctite/epoxy this way.
this may work on other lights in a similar fashion, just wanted to share.

edit: when I come to think about it, this may work just as well without the rubber tube, duct tape only.


regards,

david

For both of mine, I managed to unscrew the bezel using my hands only. They both had glue. Perhaps you may want to apply a little heat to soften the adhesive. Now, back to squishing ball bearings..... :laughing:

Where do you buy these caplugs? I have a real stubborn one that I tried opening up a few months ago and it really needs to be upgraded from a Lux to a Seoul or Cree.

I got mine as samples from Dempsey Industries, Miamisburg, Ohio.

There are other companies, like Niagara and CapPlugs.

The material you want is thick PVC.