P1 woes, ready to move on

Hi there,

I have been a long time reader but this is my first post. Over the summer I bought a Fenix P1. After a weeks the light would turn off with the slightest tightening past the "on" point. This would get progressively worse with more use until the light would only come on with the head screwed down an exact amount give or take ONE degree or two. I have tried cleaning the threads, lubing the threads, changing battery….no change. I bought the light from SeriousLights who was nice enough to replace two P1's but both had the same problem. I'm soured on the P1 despite what appears to be great enthusiasm from most others. As a result I now dislike the screw on switches and want to move on to something better. Does anyone make a Cree XRE light for CR123 or CR2 (CR2 preferred) which has a "real" switch and is no larger than the P1? I have been watching this post closely but don't see any without screw down switch.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/145938

Anyone have a suggestion.

the closest thing is a modded l1p from fenix-store $99 plus the cr123 body $20, but still 1/2 in longer.

Marktat,

Welcome to the forum.

Please take a look at the following thread. Your P1 can be fixed. You are cleaning the wrong threads

Fenix P1 Design Problem: Flickering, Dimming, Shutting Off

Hi Marktat,

No need to move on - However there are some usage notes for twist head switch operation that you should keep in mind. The P1 seems particularly sensitive to the first problem.

I have given away maybe 6 P1s as gifts and I still kept two P1s. All P1s have functioned correctly _after_ I cleaned the threads thoroughly and did not use _any_ high-silicon grease. None! high-silicon grease is an insulator, and the threads are intentionally supposed to conduct current. Whenever I have a problem with any of the twistie lights - of which I have several - I just clean the threads again. An exception would be the P1D and P1D-CE design that closes the circuit not using the threads.

I also find it useful to spray a bit of the RadioShack cleaner/lube on a Q-tip and then swab the little circuit board in the head. Do NOT spray the lubricant into the head! That lubricant is conductive and lubes the contact surface between the little PCB in the head and the top of the body. That spray was originally intended for the old rotating TV tuners that needed to be lubed and conduct a small amount of current. I used it a lot when the old clunk-clunk tuners were still around.

I also note that some CR123 cells have a thicker plastic at the base (negative terminal) than others. The thicker the base, the more you have to twist to push the cell down on the post at the bottom of the P1 body. I gave up on one brand of RCR123 cells because the plastic wrap on the base of the cell was simply too thick and actually interfered with contacting the post. I had to carve away the plastic almost back to the edge of the cell before it would work reliably.

Tim

mark, email me and I'll get you another unit [email protected]

4sevens said:

mark, email me and I'll get you another unit [email protected]

Click to expand...

Dontcha just love this guy?

4sevens said:

mark, email me and I'll get you another unit [email protected]

Click to expand...

<--Since they don't have a "falling off chair" smiley

4sevens said:

mark, email me and I'll get you another unit [email protected]

Click to expand...

Very nice of you. However, I will not be able to return the old P1 as I was having a bad day when it failed and launched it into the nearest trash can (with great velocity). It did feel a little better afterward.

Marktat said:

Very nice of you. However, I will not be able to return the old P1 as I was having a bad day when it failed and launched it into the nearest trash can (with great velocity). It did feel a little better afterward.

Click to expand...

LOL !!!

How far did it throw?

whoaaa ...
I would have been happy to pay shipping costs for throwing that P1 my way...
Ah well... may it rest peacefully.

Ouch... I think it would have been a simple cleaning away from being a great little light... If you can retrieve it you should get pictures of the abuse so we can see how it stands up!

After cooling off I had to look if was able succesfully smash it. It was not even scratched and the glass was intact. I hurled it again and never looked again. My trash bin gets emptied by a cleaning crew every night...so its long gone by now. RIP. Any suggestions for new light?

I would suggest a new P1 with clean threads.

EngrPaul said:

How far did it throw?

Click to expand...

:lolsign:

Very funny!

-Goatee

Marktat said:

After cooling off I had to look if was able succesfully smash it. It was not even scratched and the glass was intact. I hurled it again and never looked again. My trash bin gets emptied by a cleaning crew every night...so its long gone by now. RIP. Any suggestions for new light?

Click to expand...

You might want to consider the Fenix P1D

-Goatee

Marktat said:

Hi there,

I have been a long time reader but this is my first post. Over the summer I bought a Fenix P1. After a weeks the light would turn off with the slightest tightening past the "on" point. This would get progressively worse with more use until the light would only come on with the head screwed down an exact amount give or take ONE degree or two. I have tried cleaning the threads, lubing the threads, changing battery….no change. I bought the light from SeriousLights who was nice enough to replace two P1's but both had the same problem. I'm soured on the P1 despite what appears to be great enthusiasm from most others. As a result I now dislike the screw on switches and want to move on to something better. Does anyone make a Cree XRE light for CR123 or CR2 (CR2 preferred) which has a "real" switch and is no larger than the P1? I have been watching this post closely but don't see any without screw down switch.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/145938

Anyone have a suggestion.

Click to expand...

You must be having unusually bad luck.... I have four P1's and have not had any of the problems that you have had..... None, in fact......
And remember the "Threads on the Head" are the "Negative Return Path" to the battery......

Thehappyman

Mark,

I see these are your first posts! Welcome to CPF! Or congrats for coming out
from lurking!

Your story reminds me of another CPFer loading up a particular AAA light into his
shot gun and firing it at a tree out of frustration!
:lolsign:

How about a Ultrafire B-13W (aka Luxogen LR10):

http://www.qualitychinagoods.com/smartfirereg-1xcr2-b13w-regulated-p-465.html

I have the HAIII version of this light and it's amazingly bright on a RCR2 and still plenty bright on a primary CR2. Very small and excellent machining and anodizing!

Not all twisties are bad. Clickies are more convenient, but take up more space resulting in a longer light. If you want the ultimate in compactness, a twisty is it. For a small clicky 123A light, take a look at the Lumapower LM-303 for $27 shipped. It has 2-stages (low and high) and looks quite nice, slim design. I have a Spiderfire LR8 that's about 3.5" long with a clicky and love it! The head's larger, but that's something I like actually and it's still plenty small enough for me to carry around. Waion has the Spiderfires in the Dealer section for $30 shipped with an AA extension tube and a xenon LA. A very similar light to the Spiderfire is the Huntlight FT-02 which can be had for $36 shipped from JSBurlys.com with an AA extension tube also. I think the Lumapower LM-303, Spiderfire LR8, and Huntlight FT-02 are the best values in 1x123A clicky light currently.
For more money, a KL1 head with a VG FB1 body is nice, but I don't like spot beams much.