Milky L1 w/UW0J; Can It Run On RCR123?

Just like the title says. Can this light run off of RCR123's or is it limited to primaries only?

I did not know where to post this question but I do know that the crazy cats that hang out in this part of CPF do know:naughty:

Thank you.

-Goatee

Wow, I'd have to say "yes" but I'd PING da man himself to find out.

Mine can.

In the ML-1 info therad he says you can but the diameter of the cell is an issue. Now if only mine would arrive I could verify. *patiently waiting*

Valpo Hawkeye said:

In the ML-1 info therad he says you can but the diameter of the cell is an issue. Now if only mine would arrive I could verify. *patiently waiting*

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Well, uh... Valpo's right!

Electrically, there seems to be no problem running an RCR123 in the Milky L1... in fact, Phaserburn uses RCR123 exclusively in his, and has done so for quite some time now with no problem at all.

The L1 body in STOCK form (which is how it arrives in a typical Milky L1) has a battery tube that's very tight... normal 123 cells fit fine but protected RCR123 doesn't. There is one brand of UNPROTECTED RCR123 that fits well... the MP brand. See the Milky L1 Info Thread for more info and photos of that cell.

The battery tube can also be widened a bit if you have appropriate tools... doesn't take much, and the result allows you to fit any RCR123 without problems. Just be careful not to bore so deeply as to damage the electronics! They sit in the top half of the body. oo:

What about a protected 123 in an E1L body with the Milky L1 head on it. Without the circuitry of the L1 body the head gets more juice. Can the emitter handle this or should I not try it?

Valpo Hawkeye said:

What about a protected 123 in an E1L body with the Milky L1 head on it. Without the circuitry of the L1 body the head gets more juice. Can the emitter handle this or should I not try it?

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The safest thing would be to check the current draw by popping the E1L tailcap and measuring current flow from battery to flashlight body... if you're seeing more than 1A then maybe it's not such a great idea.

That said, you should be fine doing this for short durations. The heatsinking is good so heat won't tend to build up at the emitter... at least not until the body is saturated with heat. When the light gets noticeably warm, even a little uncomfortable to hold, better turn it off!

Personally, I consider this arrangement (direct drive of the L1 head off an RCR123) to be an emergency option, a backup plan. When you go that route you lose the dual brightness and regulation, plus generate lots more heat (less efficient). But that's just me!

I have been running mine on them exclusively since I got it 3-4 months ago with no problems. I love it! Perfect EDC setup.