LuxIII in a L6 - possible?

KDOG3

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Ok, from what I gather from the other thread I made about a Cree in a L5, the L6 is buck where as the L5 might be buck/boost - but you can't know for sure. Since a Cree could be transplanted into a L6 without changing the driver board, could a could high bin LuxIII or K2 be loaded up into a L6 successfully? Just imagine the throw! What kind of runtime could be expected? Am I crazy?
 

Bullzeyebill

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No not crazy, but.....

A modder such as CM could answer this better. You will need to run the K2 at 1500mA's to led to maybe equal the output of a Cree in the KL6, or a good Lux V. A U bin lux III at high current will draw too much heat and lose efficiency, and output will start dropping quickly. The Cree'd KL6 is a throw monster and will, with good flux Cree's (Q3) probably go well over the 10,000 lux mark, with outstanding spill.

The increased current of a lux III, or K2 will kill the advantage, runtime wise, of the current lux V, and Cree.

The L5 (KL5) probably has a boost converter, so like CM says, you will have to change out the converter to a buck/boost.

Bill
 

KDOG3

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Well in this case I wouldn't be concerned with getting the same output as a Cree. Just wondering if I simply replaced the stock emitter with a good LuxIII/K2, would it run and how would it run. Sorry if I seem dense...
 

IsaacHayes

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Not sure if it would focus. I heard the cree though focuses great. I think modding it you just flip the heatsink upside down and attach the cree and you're good to go. I forget who said that's how he did it..
 

asdalton

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IsaacHayes said:
Not sure if it would focus. I heard the cree though focuses great. I think modding it you just flip the heatsink upside down and attach the cree and you're good to go. I forget who said that's how he did it..

See this thread.

Yes, you can mod the KL6 with either a LuxIII or a Cree XR-E. The Lux III is easier, since you have more room to work with, and you just put the new emitter where the Luxeon V used to be. Based on the output, I would say that the Lux III ends up being driven in the 700-900 mA range. This means that you have less output than the stock emitter, but you will get about 2x the runtime and more throw.

For the Cree mod, you can flip the heatsink over in order to elevate the emitter to the correct height. You have to solder the wires as flat as possible, since there is very little room to work with between the emitter base and the reflector. Since the back of the reflector is anodized, the reflector can touch the bare connections without shorting.
 

KDOG3

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asdalton said:
See this thread.

Yes, you can mod the KL6 with either a LuxIII or a Cree XR-E. The Lux III is easier, since you have more room to work with, and you just put the new emitter where the Luxeon V used to be. Based on the output, I would say that the Lux III ends up being driven in the 700-900 mA range. This means that you have less output than the stock emitter, but you will get about 2x the runtime and more throw.

For the Cree mod, you can flip the heatsink over in order to elevate the emitter to the correct height. You have to solder the wires as flat as possible, since there is very little room to work with between the emitter base and the reflector. Since the back of the reflector is anodized, the reflector can touch the bare connections without shorting.


Thanks a bunch! If the L6 isn't one of the new Surefire Cree models, I'll have to pick one up and try both the LuxIII and Cree! Now with the LuxIII will the difference in output be dramatic, noticeable, or just barely visible? Also whats' your opinion of a K2 going in there?
 

KDOG3

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Interesting note about the K2, according to the data sheet, it states it should put out 100 lumens at 700 ma, so if I could get a K2 in the L6, should I expect 100+ lumens?
 

Bullzeyebill

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KDOG, are you sure you want to mod your KL6? You might be pushing over 100 lumens already, and throw should be decent with good spill. I had mine modded cause I knew that I had an underperforming lux V in mine, as compared to other lights I own, and checking bounce with lightmeter. I originally tried running a WWOS at 1 amp to the led, but it was too hot and output suffered because of that. I then had the bias changed to 850, and that helped heat wise but the output was not as good as my KL5, so.... I had CM put a P4 Cree in, and now I am happy. Basic testing equipment such as a DMM and lightmeter are so important when the chips are down, and you really want to know how your light is performing.

Bill
 
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