Upgrading Emitters - Ease of disassembly per model

Since there are new high-flux emitters that can go into the space once occupied by a Luxeon emitter, one piece of information will be important for many of your fellow CPF'ers is how easy it is to access the emitter.

This can help us know what to buy and/or take out of our drawer and put on the workbench.

From you experience, please list flashlights by category of accessability.

EASY - {list of models that require no more than everyday tools to disassemble the body to where the emitter/star can be replaced.}

MODERATE - {list of models that require less common tools, maybe because of strange fasteners, some threadlock or mild potting}

DIFFICULT - {list of models that are so extremely potted, epoxied, etc that any attempt to access the emitter is potentially destructive to parts of the flashlight, or will result in hours of patience, or will result in bloody fingers}

Thanks for your contribution. I will go gather my own list shortly...

We should also add in what it takes for each light to work in the Seoul P4, insulating, shimming, grinding, and how much of each, it could be very useful when upgrading the Luxeon dinosaurs.

EASY- Lumapower LM-301, Ultrafire WF602A, WF606B, Maglite, HASTO, LILL, ELLY, Fenix E0 (Black only), Brinkmann 1W/3W (3AAA/plastic case). Striker-VG (Seoul P4), GLIMT&VINET: (Access through lens cap then unscrew pill)

MODERATE- Civictor V1, DIOD, LYCKEBY, Fenix E1/L0 series,

DIFFICULT- Arc-AAA, BLIMP, Nuwai TM-301X, Fenix P1, L1T, E0 (Natural only), MiniMagLED

CAPS are DealExtreme (FifthUnit) lights with strange names.

I might come back and update the list as I mod more flashlights.

VARIES - Fenix L0P SE. I used extreme measures to try and get mine apart (including heating, strap wrenches, and hose clamps with pliers) and failed. Several others reported that it was relatively easy.

c_c

whoa another very useful Paul thread that I almost missed! I wish I read this earlier... good thing I went with the LILL rather than the GLIMT.

EASY- Dorcy 1w 3aa Metal Gear

Lots of potential for modding,just not sure where to start.

Curious_character said:

VARIES - Fenix L0P SE. I used extreme measures to try and get mine apart (including heating, strap wrenches, and hose clamps with pliers) and failed. Several others reported that it was relatively easy.

c_c

Click to expand...

The thread locking compound on my L0PSE wasn't even fully cured when it arrived to me so it only took finger strength for me to open it. I haven't done any mods on it yet, but I've cleaned the glass and reflector.

How difficult is it to get a cree into one of these bad boys?

EASY - HDS. The bezel nut is loctited in but opened under arm strength only.
Task force lights
Dorcy, Nuwai

HARD - Inova!

Dorcy 1AAA Gen 3&4 EASY; no tools required. No mods required for Cree XR-E, drilling reflector opening required for Luxeons and Seoul P4.

EASY: Garrity 3xAAA Luxeon. Unscrew head, unscrew ring that holds star in.
NO threadlock at all.
Replace Luxeon star with Cree star. Put 2 dimes under star to bring it up a bit.
Probably need to tweak the reflector to make the beam look better, so I haven't
glued anything down yet.

TOO HARD (so far): BLIMP. Unbreakable threadlock. Strap tools just slip.
Others have gotten it open with those, perhaps they didn't get quite as solid
a job of threadlock as I did, or else the aluminum has galled together and
it's never coming apart. Too bad, because it's supposed to be an easy
mod if you can get it open.

Can I add a light to the mix?

Moderate-Hard: Streamlight ProPoly 4AA Luxeon (with Seoul Semiconductor P4).

See here. It is freshly released:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/149149&page=1&pp=20

Nice thread you have here! Thanks for the ideas.


-Tony

Easy: TaskForce 3AA - access to emitter requires use of a screwdriver.

Even Easier: TaskForce 1AA - light disassembles completely into individual parts just using fingers, (except for tailcap switch which requires pliers.)

Extremely Difficult: Streamlight 1AA and 2AA Tasklights.

Moderate: UK 4AA eLED and Zoom - easily removable modules, but will require reflector removal to access emitter.

how about the gladius? is anyone modding these?

ok here's mine to add to the list:

MOSTLY EASY: Nuwai ALX-253L: TIP: use a needle nose pliers clamped around the shaft of a screwdriver at the right distance from the tip to create a perfect tool for unscrewing the nut with the hexagonal opening to gain access to the star.

REALLY EASY: Dorcy 3D 1W... everything unscrews, easy access to star, plenty of room for easy shimming options. probably even room to add a regulator with no major mods.

EASY: Task Force 2C: head unscrews, puck assembly unscrews, the goop under the puck might be a pain, but access to the star is very simple.

I know my question is depends on someone's skills. Which one is easier to use in these "easy" lights, an SSC P4 or Cree XR-E? Cheers!

Frids

i would consider the SSC P4 to be the easier mod. i have found it to be pretty much a drop in for many lights. some might require a little shimming or sanding but not much.

luminari said:

whoa another very useful Paul thread that I almost missed! I wish I read this earlier... good thing I went with the LILL rather than the GLIMT.

Click to expand...

There is no reason to upgrade a GLIMT. It actually runs a K2 at 10W, which is in the neighborhood of 2500-3000 mA. The Cree and Seoul can't handle that.

It's already a very bright, long throw flashlight. I put a Seoul in and the tint shifted blue and lost lumens. The K2 is back in my GLIMT.

ginaz said:

i would consider the SSC P4 to be the easier mod. i have found it to be pretty much a drop in for many lights. some might require a little shimming or sanding but not much.

Click to expand...

Agreed!

Good idea! Of the 5mm variety and not yet mentioned:

EASY - Photon

MODERATE - PT Attitude (requires manipulation of mushroomed plastic retaining tabs), UK 2aaa eled (requires boiling)

It would be helpful to mention which lights use a star rather than just an emitter.

EASY - Surefire KL4
MODERATE - Surefire KL1 (latest version)
DIFFICULT - U2 & KL5 - the most difficult part is getting them open.