L0P Stock vs. SSC-P4 upgrade

Left, a Stock L0P-SE. Right, a L0P with Seoul P4 U-Bin upgrade:



Here are the hotspots compared. The L0P-SE (Left) is on High:



Same picture, underexposed two stops:


When properly centered and raised to the focal point, the beam and color of these continues to be excellent.

Does this mod get any hotter than the stock on high?

I didn't measure these, but last week I compared some comparable AA fenix lights. The body temperature rise was about 40% less with the Seoul.

Is there anything that you don't modify:lolsign:

Keep up the GREAT work:bow::bow::bow:

Here's what the L0P-SE looks like now. The .030" copper disc from the Sandwich Shoppe requires flattening in a vice before installation. Here's what it looks like while the thermal epoxy cures underneath. This first layer of epoxy works as an insulator, which I check with an ohmmeter before proceeding with installing the emitter.



If I can open it, and it has a Luxeon I/III, I'm modifying it!

Where did you get your Seoul P4's from?

cryhavok said:

Where did you get your Seoul P4's from?

Click to expand...

The sandwich shoppe.

hmm I just received 4 from SS and the tint on them is nothing to be pleased about! Bummer!

Hmm very tempting indeed. What was in the spot the copper disc now occupies? Does this have to be done for the mod or just an improvement? I not at all familiar with the SS emitters.

Concept said:

Hmm very tempting indeed. What was in the spot the copper disc now occupies? Does this have to be done for the mod or just an improvement? I not at all familiar with the SS emitters.

Click to expand...

The center of focus is about .030" lower total, some due to the shorter body, and some due to the shorter optic focal point. Maybe there are other factors, but all totaled the emitter needs to sit .030" higher than a luxeon did, so we use a copper spacer to give it the lift.

Since part of the issue is due to a shorter optic focal point, you may find yourself removing about .010" from the back of the reflector in order to allow the optic to rise up higher in the reflector to meet the focal point. This is about 1/3 the amount needed to remove for a Cree update.

Nice work again Paul.:thumbsup:
one silly question, how do you take out the stock emitter?

I just finished the L0P-SE. Here is how it looks beside a L0-Ti which has not been modded yet.

I use solder-wick to remove the solder from the two connection pads to the emitter, then just twist the existing emitter to remove.





Here is where material needs removed from the back of the reflector (the black one has been done).

thanks for the info!
good work

Paul great job.how hard was it to open the LO Ti?

Chris

The L0-Ti was easier than the others, but not by much. This is where the greatest patience is required.

Did you have to use the copper disc when you modded your L1T?

thezman said:

Did you have to use the copper disc when you modded your L1T?

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Yes, it was necessary.

I just did two Ultrafire WF-606B's, they required a copper disc as usual, but when installed focused perfectly without any modification to the reflector. (DE YNKA)

Thanks Paul

One More Nice Mod... great job....

Dang man, you're all over it! Now I find myself looking at the backside of my L0P-SE pill. It does not have the two larger opposing holes in which to insert my needlenose pliers. It does seem to have slightly flattened areas on each side. Is that where you stuck the pliers? Also there is some tiny pinhole size holes in sets of 3. How do you get it out?

Oh yeah, I guess I'll have to make my 0.03" copper insert from a penny