How do i mod my L1P to XR-E?

So how do i make my L1P a better light. or how do i fit an XR-E in it.

I mean with the arrival of the L1D-CE etc.. what do i do with my L1P ? why spend another $58 when i have $8 XR-E emitters

I really do not need all those electronics and multiple brightness and sos stuff but i just wish to make my L1P brighter but with the same beam pattern. can it be done with the existing reflector and electronics ?

How do i open it without damaging it?
and what is the current going to the led by using an alk batt ?

Thanks much appreciated.

theres a thread on modding the L1P somewhere

heard its a pain to open the head though

theres a thread on modding the L1P somewhere

Click to expand...

Search for threads started by Erasmus. Unfortunately the pics that came with it are gone, but the info is still relevant.

greenLED said:

Search for threads started by Erasmus. Unfortunately the pics that came with it are gone, but the info is still relevant.

Click to expand...

Step-by-step instructions for modding an L1T with a Seoul P4 (Cree chip in a different package) is here. The method works great for other lights -- I've modded six so far, and I'm pretty klutzy -- so it should work with the L1T. The hard part might be getting the head apart.

c_c

It requires some complex surgery

To mod L1P will be a very hard and complex work... First you have to deal with the head and then replace the LED and then mod the reflector, because the hole for Lumileds was too small for CREE LEDs.

Another problem is the reflectors deisgned for Lumileds wouldn't work very well with CREE LEDs, the beamshot would not be as good as native CREE ones.

I think using a SSC-P4 is a better match.

Best regards

_____
Tom

Long John said:

I think using a SSC-P4 is a better match.

Best regards

_____
Tom

Click to expand...

Yes, I heard that SSC-P4 works well with Lumileds reflector, but there is a problem. The buttom of SSC-P4 LED is connected to power +, while other LEDs are power -. Some people had burned their circuits because of this diffierence.

fineday said:

Yes, I heard that SSC-P4 works well with Lumileds reflector, but there is a problem. The buttom of SSC-P4 LED is connected to power +, while other LEDs are power -. Some people had burned their circuits because of this diffierence.

Click to expand...

That's the same with the Cree's. At the Cree you can cut the +edges and at the SSC-P4 you have to isolate the bottom with AA-epoxy, so no problem at all.
Before installing, measure the heatsink to be sure there is no current.

Best regards

____
Tom

i kind of gave up whilst trying to open the head. i did manage to turn it a couple of turns but it got stuck there and i cannot turn it anymore. the pliers then started slipping and started to mess up the threads so i stopped and gave up.

Amonra said:

i kind of gave up whilst trying to open the head. i did manage to turn it a couple of turns but it got stuck there and i cannot turn it anymore. the pliers then started slipping and started to mess up the threads so i stopped and gave up.

Click to expand...

Do you have tried it with heat? Take a hairdryer and heat up the light (2 minutes about) and try it again.

I wish you good luck

Best regards

_____
Tom

I still have my L2P and Cree XR-E lying around here for almost 2 months, didn't have time yet to modify it. Some people claim it is very difficult, but I don't think so. I am going to use a McR-17-XR reflector with it, which has to be modified too because it's too long. Anyway, during the next weeks I might have time to do the modification and afterwards I can tell you how it went.

For opening the L1P/L2P, check out the tutorial I once wrote. It's still somewhere on the forums but the pictures are gone and I couldn't retrieve them.

Amonra said:

i kind of gave up whilst trying to open the head. i did manage to turn it a couple of turns but it got stuck there and i cannot turn it anymore. the pliers then started slipping and started to mess up the threads so i stopped and gave up.

Click to expand...

Check out my tutorial too. Use needlenose pliers and train yourself for the right technique. Put enough pressure on the pliers, but not too much otherwise you'll screw the threads. I opened quite a few epoxied L1P/L2P heads so far. It's not easy and takes some time

I never was able to screw out the light engine even though I had TONS of grip with the needlenose and it only budged like 1/8 of a turn. After too many attempts, the grip holes have been widened so much there are no longer 2 holes there but instead 2 trenches that provide no more grip. HAha...

Oh well, guess my L1P shall remain stock and used as a glovebox light.