Can someone explain to me why I can't use protected 3V RCR's in my Surefire G2?

Knight of Myth

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I've heard so many people say that this is not possible and that getting two 3.6V RCR's and a 9.0V lamp assembly is the way to go. So why, if the 3V cells are protected, can't I use two of them with my stock P60 and P61 lamps? That adds up to 6V which is the requirement of both lamps. It just seems meaningless to me to purchase yet another lamp assembly for this flashlight, which would more than likely render the other two useless.

So are there any rechargable solutions for use with the stock P60 and P61 lamps?
 

PAB

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I'm pretty sure that it draws too much current for most protected RCR123s. If it draws too much current, the overdraw protection circuit kicks in and shuts down the battery. I don't know if AW's new batteries have a high enough current draw or not.
 

FlashKat

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RCR123 3.0v batteries should work depending how sensitive the lamp assembly is. I have used this set-up http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1641 in my Pelican M6 incandescent (2 cell) with no problems, and my Streamlight TL-3 (3 cell) incandescent with no problems.
I recently blew out my Pelican trying RCR123 3.7v, but I knew it would happen although it was STUPID I had to experiment out of curiousity.
 

chevrofreak

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The 3v regulated cells dont really perform very well with an incandescent. You really would be better off with a 9v lamp and two of AW's high current 750mAh RCR123's. Maybe the ES9 from Lumens Factory would fit the bill?

Surefire%20E2e.png
 

mdocod

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now take a close look at where that red line BEGINS!!!.. WAY higher than the others... it's instaflash territory for the first minute or so!!!

3.0V rechargables are just not going to have the ideal characteristics for an incan lamp that was designed to be used with primaries...

you say they are 6V lamp assemblies, you are incorrect, in reality, they are more like 5V lamp assemblies that are being pushed to the limits at 6V and run reliably at around 5V... They have been designed this way on purpose because the manufactures of tactical lamp assemblies choose bulbs with the voltage sag of lithium primaries in mind. 3.0V RCR123 cells tend to be about 3.2-3.4V freshly charged and tend to deliver this (as shown in the graph above) for the first short while until the power is drained a bit.

this question keeps popping up... I'm going to keep offering the same recommendation: get a 17670 and a 3.7V lamp... It will be brighter and run longer than anything you can do with a pair of those 3.0V RCR123s... and if it is brightness you want. HO-9 from Lumensfactory and a pair of standard protected 3.7V RCR123s from AW.


It just seems meaningless to me to purchase yet another lamp assembly for this flashlight, which would more than likely render the other two useless.
When the P60s you try to drive with that setup burn out prematurely, it will seem much more meaningless to have to buy an entirely different set of rechargable batteries and charger to keep using your light. .. Do it the right way now.... see if you can sell your partially used P60 and or P61 over in BST, then use that cash to buy a lumensfactory or WE or G&P lamp for around $10-15.

also...I can darn near guarantee that there is no RCR3.0V anywhere that will light up your P61 worth a darn anyways... it'll be really really scorchingly bright for about 2 minutes, then fall on it's face.. each time you use the cells on the P61, you will do internal damage to the cells, which will lead to the possibility of catastrophic failure ("vent with flame").... (with a side of hydrofluoric acid).. or they will just totally die prematurely.. No matter what happens, you'll wish you had just abandoned the 6V lamps and moved on to the better combinations available before wasting the cash.
 
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