Cree Nuwai Q3

Cato

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After having carried such interesting lights as the SF 6P and E2, Fenix L1P and P1, I still look for a Nuwai Q3-styled Cree light. It still has a sweet spot in my heart, as I always regarded the Q3 as having great looks and an optimal size and with the tailcap clickie it was uncomplicated to use as well. I don't need multiple levels, just want real brightness one click away.

So, can anyone help with a "Q3 Cree modifications for Dummys" guide or is a similar light available commercially?

Thanks a lot

Cato
 

myk

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Cato,

Hope I can help. Easiest/best way would be to get a Cree Star or round, and one of these heatsinks: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/150140 from Mirage Man - his work is excellent quality.

To do the mod completely you'll need to be able to solder, and grind off a small amount of the Q3 reflector - if you can't do either this may not be a mod for you, but Mirage Man offers in that thread to do the mod for you (I don't know how much this would cost)

What part of Austria do you live in? I spent 2 weeks in Vienna last summer and had a great time. I've missed my Ottakringer since i got back however and no-one in the US imports it (yet) :awman:
 

Monolith

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My Q3 with Cree XR-E P4 WC is one of my favorite lights. I purchased it from Mosport who custom made the heatsink. I then swapped emitters. I love the reflector - both flood and throw from the same light. I highly recommend the WC tint! I have also converted another Q3 with Seoul SSC P4 TSWOH. Much easier mod and still very white with high output. If this is your first mod, I'd go for the Seoul swap first.
 

Nake

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Another option is to put a Seoul P4 in. I put one in my son's Q3 a few days ago. I epoxied the .030" spacer in, then the emitter. When I went to screw the bezel with reflector on, it wouldn't go all the way down. The reflector was bottoming out on the plastic surrounding the emitter dome. I fixed it by sanding the reflector. If I had to do it over again, I would assemble it first without the glue to see how everything fits. Possibly the spacer is not needed. The thickness of the spacer is about how much I had to sand the reflector.
 

Monolith

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Nake said:
Possibly the spacer is not needed. The thickness of the spacer is about how much I had to sand the reflector.
Spacer is not needed. The reflector smooths the beam enough that it is not necessary to go to extremes to perfect the reflector/emitter focal point.

Forgot to add that I'm running a flupic as well.
 
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Cato

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Thanks for all your tips! Bummer that no one offers a real put-in upgrade kit complete with the Cree LED.

@myk: I live about 1hr. via car west of Vienna along the Danube in an area called "Wachau". I feel your pain- I really love my holidays in the USA (southern eastcoast), but everytime when I am there, I miss the cheap (compared to Starbucks) good, strong coffee and especially the dark bread. Maybe its your time to import Ottakringer? ;-)
 

Monolith

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mosport said:
Happy to hear my modded Q-III is one of your faves Monolith!
It's blossomed into a 17670 light (with extension tube) for an incredibly long run time and bright light!
 

Solstice

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You could always wait for the new Surefire lights to come out- there will be an L1 and I believe an E1L that will use Crees and have the QIII style (more like Nuwai aped Surefire style) but will be much higher quality (and $$ of course).

My brother lives in Vienna with his girlfriend (who is from there)- really likes it so far.
Good luck :).
 

LoneRebel

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My Q3 is my goto mod light. Whenever I get a new generation of LED's to test out, they always first go into my Q3 first. It's exceptionally easy to put a cree p4 in the Q3. I didn't need to mod the reflector or anything. Just an easy star swap and solder. I'd have to say it is about the same level of output as my surefire L4 on a 17670 li-ion cell. They both put out walls of light (pure flood). It really is a great setup.

If you can't get the bezel off the Q4, try boiling your flashlight in a airtight freezer ziplock bag. It softens the adhesive so you can just twist off the bezel.
 

jsr

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I love my Q3s also. It has a great combination of size, ergos, aesthetics, and quality machining. I see the poor efficiency driver as the Q3s main bad point. The SSC P4 is an easier mod and SSC P4 T-bins can be purchased at dealextreme on a Star to make it super simple. Just unsolder the old Star and solder in the new Star. Doesn't get any easier. I'm waiting for P4 U-bin Stars to do my Q3s...or I might just get itchy and get some of the Edison Edixeon Stars right now.
 

farscape105

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Would Cree P4 work with older Q3 which I read uses board at 450 mah instead of 700 on newer boards?
 

Nake

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farscape105 said:
Would Cree P4 work with older Q3 which I read uses board at 450 mah instead of 700 on newer boards?

I wonder if the light in the link is the early Q3 I've read of people mentioning, looks just like it. In the LED Museum review it ran at 4xxmA. Or it could be some of the Q1 boards found their way into Q3s when that model came out. There is a thread somewhere that campares the new and old boards. Take yours apart and compare.

http://eliteled.com/products/flashlights/tm306x.html
 

farscape105

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Ok, have a few questions here:

First off, sounds like when using rechargeables doesn't matter what driver you have as it runs in direct drive.

I opened my Q3 up and see that putting in a Seoul Semiconductors Z-Power LED Emitter doesn't look too difficult, hopefully in stock soon. It works ok without enlarging hole in reflector?

Also thought I would order glass lens from flashlightlens.com Is 22x1.9 correct size?

With the P4, is upgraded heatsink really required when running r123's if I use Artic silver on stock heatsink on sides and top?

Finally, just curious how flupic works? Is it basically a direct replacement board to stock that allows user defined levels that can be programmed using clickie? How does it change to lower levels, using PWM?

Thanks, excited to at least upgrade my Q3 with P4 and glass lens.
 
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