Hooray for me... I passed!

Well, on my third attempt I finally passed my state licensing exam for my plumbing license. 'Big deal', you might say. However, it's a four-part test including a written exam, two practical exams including pouring an antiquated lead-joint. To top it off you have to compose an isometric drawing (3D view) of both the drains and fresh-water systems of a given multi-story floor plan.

The only thing I had to keep taking over was the stupid lead joint since I don't actually do that in my trade, very few people still do.

So I've been stressing over this for months and it's finally over! (well, except for the $125 I have to send in to get it issued.)

:goodjob: now go out and get you a nice new light for work.

:rock:

Congrats.

Valpo,

Congrats! And just an FYI whenever you post I get hungry for a nice cheap filet @ Kelsey's Steak House on US30

Sign me up for the steak alongside the Lincoln Highway. :rock:

:goodjob:

myk said:

Valpo,

Congrats! And just an FYI whenever you post I get hungry for a nice cheap filet @ Kelsey's Steak House on US30

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I don't know if you've been this way recently, but they sold their lot on the corner by the University and moved to the other side of the highway to a nicer building. Not a steak man myself, I love a good burger and their menu is suspiciously devoid of burgers.

Congrats! You must be so relieved! I'll drink a Bud tonight in your honor. :buddies:

Good job! I hope it helps to secure your future.

Congrats!

Glad to see a "neighbor" doing well................business should be good with all the cold weather, now and of late!!

Let me know if you ever visit, Fort Wayne!

jeffb

jeffb said:

Congrats!
Glad to see a "neighbor" doing well................business should be good with all the cold weather, now and of late!!

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Yep, had 70 hours last week, and worked a 12 yesterday. I'm not actually a plumber right now, I'm a heating & A/C tech so I've had a ton of 'no heats'.

Wish I had become a plumber ..... they make more money than Doctors over here in the UK !

Valpo Hawkeye said:

I don't know if you've been this way recently, but they sold their lot on the corner by the University and moved to the other side of the highway to a nicer building. Not a steak man myself, I love a good burger and their menu is suspiciously devoid of burgers.

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Actually I think I've ONLY been to the new building - Nov/Dec of 2006 or so


I think its time for you to undertake a project that's half flashlight, half plumbing. Like a 10 foot pipe filled with AA's with a hotwire on the end.

myk said:

I think its time for you to undertake a project that's half flashlight, half plumbing. Like a 10 foot pipe filled with AA's with a hotwire on the end.

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Who needs HID? We can do the same, but there'll be a bit of a bulge if you put it in your pocket.

Valpo - congrats. I did all my own plumbing in a two story house I built including hot and cold, drain and waste vent and natural gas. It's a lot of work and takes some 3D thinking to get it all in right. Question - I didn't understand what 'pouring an antiquated lead-joint' is related to? I did copper pipe plumbing with solder that was part lead (long time ago) but not familiar with pouring ? And I thought they basically did not allow lead in plumbing any more (but I may not be clear on what you are referring to).

matrix, lead is forbidden in potable water systems, such as your domestic water lines. That's why all solder is now lead free. However, pouring a lead joint is for drains only and so it's not subject to that prohibtion by the major plumbing codes. Local ordinance varies. To pour a lead joint you do the following:

Put the bald (male) end of the cast iron pipe into the bell (female) end.
Check alignment and bracing
Pack the joint tightly with oakum, an oily, yarny hemp-like rope
Make sure the oakum is tightly packed and even, leaving approx. 1" to the end of the bell
For a horizontal joint (what we had to do) attach a running rope to the outside of the bell to hold the lead in
Pour liquid-hot lead into the bell through the opening left by the running rope.
Allow to cool (about 10 seconds until you can remove the rope)
Chisel off the large section of lead left by the opening of the running rope.
Caulk the joint, that is to beat the lead evenly and tightly around the bell, further compressing the oakum.

The oakum is what actually seals the joint. When water touches it, it expands, creating an even tighter seal. In my area, no one uses cast iron, let alone pours lead to seal the joints.

Well that makes perfect sense these days right? Test people on all the things NOT used in the real world


Congrats


Mac

Thanks Valpo - that makes sense - at least that it's for drain and cast iron. Doesn't make a lot of sense for a test though like you say - not much used in the real world today I don't think

Good job Valpo, congrats! And hi from a neighbor to your west...

Congrats on the license.