Maxlite Seoul P4

Not sure if anyone posted this emitter swap out elsewhere.
Bought a bunch of Seouls and started swapping out Luxeons from my flashlight collection.

For this mod it wasn't as easy as i thought as the Seoul focuses slightly different from the Luxeon. Placing the emitter flat on the heatsink the light formed the familiar doughnut :thumbsdow

Then using the standard 0.030 copper spacer from the Shoppe it placed the emitter deep into the reflector causing it to short out. In hindsight if i had perfectly bent the legs to prevent touching the reflector all would have been well. As an easier fix i file the offending spots off the reflector. Most of the damage is behind the reflector. Two grooves can be seen from the front if looking for it. Easily spotted by presentation grade collectors :naughty:

The 0.030 spacer gives the light a tight hotspot like the original Maxlite. Probably could have used a thinner spacer and still get good results. Lux increase is about 50% or so (edit- please read post #3 below:thumbsdow). The tint is even cool white, the best of about 6 that i've used so far. Interesting they all were neighbors from the same reel. This Maxlite uses the low-output convertor.

SF2

You'll have to take some beamshots compared to other lights. Perhaps I'll do that mod on my Maxlite

Sorry no beamshots.
Got to compare this to a Maxlite II HO. I was hoping to surpass the Lux output but have to admit i was too hasty in posting what i thought would be a great mod. Comparing the hotspots the Maxlite-S has a smaller hotspot. Probably due to being deeper into the reflector? The beam is whiter making the normally white beam of the Maxlite II look greeninsh. This of course is part of the P4 "lottery". What shocked me was that the lux output is less then the Maxlite II. Comparing outputs earlier they both were very close with the HO ahead. They both have/had the super-S bin Luxeons. Just to make sure i swapped the heads on the bodies to make sure that the batteries were the same. Going to retract my 50% improvement as that was what i got in my other Seoul mods. Not sure what went wrong(?) here.:shrug:

Maybe when your shorted out the Seoul, it lost its output
-bobby

Not going to try again with another emitter as the wires have been soldered enough times.
Wonder if the convertor took a hit also?

nakahoshi said:

Maybe when your shorted out the Seoul, it lost its output
-bobby

Click to expand...

Ok, I searched the huge thread about the Maxlite, but didn't find what I was looking for: what is the drive current of the Maxlite I on high level? I have a Maxlite coming and was also planning to put a Seoul emitter in, so knowing the drive current would be helpful to get an idea of what to expect compared to other lights I know.

Finally resolved the low output dillema. Though i had light the reflector was making a resistance bridge across the emitter. I put clear lacquer on the back of the reflector and on the exposed leads. The lux reading went up. Lux almost as high as my PD-S mizer (300ma). Lux reading now surpasses my stock Maxlite II HO by about 20-25%.

Can't remember seeing the drive current myself. For the long runtiime (LRT) that i modded it's Lux reading is close to a 300ma Seoul flashlight that i have. So for the standard High Output (HO) giving a guess at 350-400ma. A Seoul mod won't make it as bright as many CR123 flashlights as many run at higher drive currents.
SF2

dcjs said:

Ok, I searched the huge thread about the Maxlite, but didn't find what I was looking for: what is the drive current of the Maxlite I on high level? I have a Maxlite coming and was also planning to put a Seoul emitter in, so knowing the drive current would be helpful to get an idea of what to expect compared to other lights I know.

Click to expand...

:goodjob:Good luck to those attempting this mod.:goodjob:

I didn't attempt to post beam shots as i don't have the 2 same flashlights to compare the different emitters. My intent was to get the same lux of my long runtime to my high output. I finally got that and more. If i were to do this again i would take more time getting the emitter leads right. For me my lights center around the A size Lithium format which has more inherent power.

The Maxlite is a very handsome design but the power out of an AA alkyline battery is limited compared to a Lithium design. I guess it is safe to say though that it holds its own against any single and double AA battery LED.
SF2

I had time and ambition to continue this mod. I ended up belt sanding the base of the reflector about the height of the emitter spacer (0.030). I took it up close to where i had to file to clear the leads. I then used a file to square off the base. I then painted clear enamel on the base for insulation. The hole in the reflector now clears the emitter base about 1mm all around. Using a lathe would be more professional but it's not a large amount to remove.

The Seoul LED has to be raised into the reflector for best results. W/o shimming it up i got a doughnut. Not sure of the minimum amount that is needed as i had the 0.030 shim handy and it focused perfectly.

Right now given the choice between using my unmodded HO Maxlite II or this Seoul modded extended runtime (low current) one i use this one vice just the opposite before the mod.

SF2

Hi starfiretoo
I also moded my Maxlite 2.
I raised emitter about 1.5 mm.
Did not modified reflector.
And really happy with result.
Tight and very bright hot spot with useable spill, no donut.
:goodjob:
Cheers.

I also successfully upgrade my MaxliteII with a Seoul USVOI, Now 75% brighter than the original Luxeon super Sbin according to my LUX meter.
No need to modify anything, just to raise the Seoul LED about 1mm when you install it, you will get a perfectly focused light

starfire too, it would be much easier if you use some tape on the emitter's legs or the back of reflector to insulate it in the first place?

By raising the emitter higher the leads actually pushed into the back of the reflector. I am not sure if there is a difference between the Maxlite AA and the Maxlite II. I also, didn't know you could unscrew the LE from the head making soldering and measuring easy. I think i did everthing the hard way with this:sigh:

-SF2

chesterqw said:

starfire too, it would be much easier if you use some tape on the emitter's legs or the back of reflector to insulate it in the first place?

Click to expand...

I recently was able to get a light engine (LE) from a Maxlite Extreme. From what i think this has an upgraded convertor besides the Seoul P4 emitter. This was an easy change out now that i know how to do it. On my meter a stock HO Maxlite II shows 1250+ Lux and this modded one 2600+ @ 1 yard. One bright light off a AA Duracell battery. No fancy lithium or photo battery. The only ringer was the LE.

Happy Modding :goodjob: everone :rock:

-SF2

There's been a question on how to remove the light engine (LE) from the head.
It cannot be removed from the bottom like the Aleph heads. You will scratch it in vain.

What you see on the bottom is only the top of the iceburg so to speak. It has to be removed from the bezel end. Remove bezel ring, lense, o-ring, reflector. What you will see next is the large heatsink of the LE. There are two (2) holes on the top. Stick your longnose pliers in them. Unscrew out (CCW).

A comment and plug for arc_mania the designer and builder of the Maxlite. The heatsink is a part that you don't see. Compared to other lights this is one beautiful piece of overengineering

For the record i've changed out the emitter with the heatsink in the head and out. It is so much easier with it out of the head out but it can be done with it in.

Happy modding,
-SF2