Question about SF lego...

I am very new to SF and all the possibilitys to play lego with the diffrent heads and bodys...
Its all very confusion I think... And especially when I just bought one and am planning to continue to buy them, but dont really know what suits what...

I just bought a L4, and would want to have a one cell body also, so my thought was to get a E1E or the E1L and take the head from the L4 and put it on the E1 body...

And if I get hold of a 2stage tailcap it would be great! Almost a perfect edc!

My question now, does the KL4 fit on a L1 body? And does the L1 tailcap work with the KL4? or are the 2 stage function in the bezel? because if it does work I could wait for the new L1 cree to come out and use the head from the L4 and then I dont have to buy the 2 stage tailcap or the E1E...
I would then have a one cell L4 with two stage tailcap? Dont need to get a Mcclicky 2 stage tailcap?
Please help! Very confused....:candle:

it'll fit and work... just use a RCR123a and youw ill be good for a little over 20 mins of regulation.


Search for TW4 for more info

So your saying that I could use the KL4 on a L1 body to get a 2 stage one cell L4?

Get alot of hits on this, but no clear info wheter this work or not...:thinking:

EDIT: ok I think I found a thread asking this exact question, but it was a while ago... can someone confirm this for me?

I´m kinda lost here...should I buy a E1E now or wait for the new L1, or get a L1 now...

Thanks!

Yes, you can use the KL4 on a one cell body. Most of the time it will work on 1xCR123, but some KL4s have a LED with a too high Vf and won't light up. With a Li-Ion R123 cell however you should be in regulation on the one cell body.

The two stage switching is a different and indipendednt animal. You can replace the nromal tailcap of your E-Series LED lights (L4, E1L, E2L) with a 2-stage cap. The options there include a modification done to the Z57 clicky ... or ... an Aleph Tailcap with the McE2S 2-stage module made by McGizmo.
Both options use a resistor to drop the driver out of regulation, which then means that your low mode is somewhat inefficient.It is still a very useful mod that greatly improves the functionality of those lights ... and especially the L4.

bernie


P.S.: feel free to ask more questions or ask for links and pics if further interested.

I am also new to Surefire and have just bought a L2 what bits and pieces will fit?
Norm

Kiessling said:

Yes, you can use the KL4 on a one cell body. Most of the time it will work on 1xCR123, but some KL4s have a LED with a too high Vf and won't light up. With a Li-Ion R123 cell however you should be in regulation on the one cell body.

The two stage switching is a different and indipendednt animal. You can replace the nromal tailcap of your E-Series LED lights (L4, E1L, E2L) with a 2-stage cap. The options there include a modification done to the Z57 clicky ... or ... an Aleph Tailcap with the McE2S 2-stage module made by McGizmo.
Both options use a resistor to drop the driver out of regulation, which then means that your low mode is somewhat inefficient.It is still a very useful mod that greatly improves the functionality of those lights ... and especially the L4.

bernie


P.S.: feel free to ask more questions or ask for links and pics if further interested.

Click to expand...

Ok! thanks!

I heard that it would be some what hard to get hold of a pre modded 2 stage tailcap... If it turn up I will get it, maybe try to make it myself if theres some kit to buy, someone wrote that the other day.

Now I will figure out which of the one cell light I will get....:thinking:

If you know more where to get the 2 stage tailcap, or where to get a kit to make one, let me know! Thanks for the info! Much appriciated!

Have a look at the Sandwich Shoppe for SureFire E-Series & L4 compatible products called "Aleph" by McGizmo. Here you also should find various tailcaps and 2-stage switches.

RiZA said:

Have a look at the Sandwich Shoppe for SureFire E-Series & L4 compatible products called "Aleph" by McGizmo. Here you also should find various tailcaps and 2-stage switches.

Click to expand...

Hey! Thanks!

What he said.
A word about resistors: the higher the number, the dimmer the light on low ... and with a KL4 on 1x123 or 1xLi-Ion you would not want to go too low ... or it will be basically dark :candle:

Also ... B/S/T is a good place to look and/or to ask.

For more E-Series stuff you can read the FAQ in the McGizmo forum ... there's Aleph info and E-Series modularity info there. And more.


Norm ... the L2 has a "dumb" head without driver; the driver is in the body. So ... the L2 body won't mix with anything; the tailcap isn't E-Series compatible. The L2 head can be screwed onto E-Series bodies, but it will be in direct drive.
THis means that if you run it on 2xCR123 it is too dim (the LuxV in there has a higher Vf than the LuxIII LED) ... and on 2 x R123 Li-Ion it is way overdriven and might let the magic smoke out.
So in the end ... L2 head should stay on L2 body

bernie

Ok! I will look further in thoose threads!

I have one final question though.... If I combine the L4 with a E1E, I can then take the L4 head on the E1E body, but not the E1E head on the L4 body? The current will get to high and fry the bulb no? Isa there a bulb I can put in the E1E head so I can use it with the L4 body? And then how much lumen can i get at the most?

Sorry for all the noob question...but Im really starting to get hooked on SF and must now all there is!

Questions always welcome :wave:

The incan lamp in the E1 head is the MN01 bulb and it will flash on 2 x CR123. The lamp you'd need is the MN02 or MN03 lamp (25 or 60 lumens max. output with different runtimes). You can use those in the E1e head on the L4 body.

bernie

Kiessling said:

Questions always welcome :wave:

The incan lamp in the E1 head is the MN01 bulb and it will flash on 2 x CR123. The lamp you'd need is the MN02 or MN03 lamp (25 or 60 lumens max. output with different runtimes). You can use those in the E1e head on the L4 body.

bernie

Click to expand...

Thanks alot! I think I made up my mind about my first lego kit now!
Going hunting for a new bulb!

Thanks alot for the help! I will look into McGizmo threads for further info!

Only downside now is the cashflow... But hey they are happier as a SF than green paper in my wallet!

FlashSpyJ said:

My question now, does the KL4 fit on a L1 body? And does the L1 tailcap work with the KL4? or are the 2 stage function in the bezel? because if it does work I could wait for the new L1 cree to come out and use the head from the L4 and then I dont have to buy the 2 stage tailcap or the E1E...
I would then have a one cell L4 with two stage tailcap? Dont need to get a Mcclicky 2 stage tailcap?
Please help! Very confused....:candle:

Click to expand...

The KL4 will not work on the L1 body, only on the e-series one-cell bodies of the E1E and the E1L. Because you mentioned both in your post you got some misleading replies. As Kiessling said in his post, L2 (and L1) heads, bodies, and tailcaps aren't interchangable with other lights (with the exception that the A2, L2 and L1 all use the same tailcap).

The KL4 on an E1X's body is a very nice EDC so long as you use an RCR123, as Manzerick mentioned.

FWIW, a user here by the name of Milkyspit modifies old-style L1's with Cree emitters and a new reflector. This brings the high output up to about 75-85 lumens, depending on what bin emitter you go with. This gives you a two-stage light in a great form factor. I carry my ML1 way more than my L4. Something to think about...

Ok! I will go with my L4, get a E1E, MN03 and a new 3,7V RCR123 to start with!
But there´s always room for more lights! (I think....have to hide them from the girlfriend...schhhh!)

The ML1 sounds like a nice light! Every time Im looking for ONE new light, I end up finding TWO new lights...oh well....

Hi FlashSpyJ,

Since you already have the L4, get the E1L. You will then end up with two interchageable heads with two interchangeable bodies. Where Tailcap is concern both will sport the Z57 (or Z61 if it is black) and both TCs on the L4 nd E1L will be clickie. If you prefer a 2-stage like an L1 or L2, an Aleph 2 stage, Mce2s will do the trick. Another cool TC is the E2D Tc but it coms in black version. Its flared end makes holding easier and also can tailstand IMHO very useful clickie.

If you want to dive into SF E-Series ... here's a thread ...
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/64308
... that shows all E-Series compatible parts, custom of factory built. At least all parts manufactured in somewhat sufficient quantitiy that I know of.
bernie

Thanks for the information. I'm thinking I might have made the wrong purchase, but I do like Lux V.
Norm

FlashSpyJ said:

So your saying that I could use the KL4 on a L1 body to get a 2 stage one cell L4?

Click to expand...

Hawkeye, is correct.
The KL4 cannot be screw on a L1 body. Believe the screw thread are different to prevent accidental mounting. There are electronic in the L1 body.

It can only be use on single cell E series body, such as E1E.

I would suggest you get the E1E.

jumpstat said:

Hi FlashSpyJ,

Since you already have the L4, get the E1L. You will then end up with two interchageable heads with two interchangeable bodies. Where Tailcap is concern both will sport the Z57 (or Z61 if it is black) and both TCs on the L4 nd E1L will be clickie. If you prefer a 2-stage like an L1 or L2, an Aleph 2 stage, Mce2s will do the trick. Another cool TC is the E2D Tc but it coms in black version. Its flared end makes holding easier and also can tailstand IMHO very useful clickie.

Click to expand...

Hi, but I cant use the E1L head on the L4 body? Wouldnt that fry the led?
I have thought about getting the E1L, but I dont think I like the beam from that light, to little sidespill judging from the beamshots I´ve seen.
There almst to many combos out there...makes it hard to sleep at night...

I will look into all the Aleph and Mce2s, seems to have alot of nice stuff!

You CAN use the KL1 on the L4 body....it will work fine, just give you longer runtime.
There are mods you can do to the E1L head with an emitter swap and pulling out the TIR optic and install an Mcr20 reflector.
I am actually waiting for my emitters and reflector to do this mod.
I hear output and usefull light is improved greatly.