What does the G&P 3W run at? 750mah?

KDOG3

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I decided to go with a C2-HA with a Seoul modded G&P 3W drop in. I believe it runs at 750mah. Is that correct? I hope so. That should be something like 170 lumens, right?
 

cratz2

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Wow! That would be amazing. Have you emailed G&P?

I'm starting to feel old... Sometimes I'm still amazed at choice U-bin Lux IIIs. Crees obviously blow them away though. And the effeciency... The M1 on the 18650 seems like a very impressive combo.
 

KDOG3

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I haven't done it yet. I'm in the process of of collecting the parts. I just gotta find 2 WO bin Seouls....
 

c0t0d0s0

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KDOG3 said:
I decided to go with a C2-HA with a Seoul modded G&P 3W drop in. I believe it runs at 750mah. Is that correct? I hope so. That should be something like 170 lumens, right?

I was also hoping for 700+ mA, but mine measured at "only" 600 mA... I put a Seoul in it yesterday, and it rocks. SSC P4 SV0 color bin from PhotonFanatic is very nice, BTW.
 
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cratz2

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c0t0d0s0 said:
I was also hoping for 700+ mA, but mine measured at "only" 600 mA... I put a Seoul in it yesterday, and it rocks. SSC P4 SV0 color bin from PhotonFanatic is very nice, BTW.

Tell me you took before and after beamshots?
popcorn.gif
 

KDOG3

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c0t0d0s0 said:
I was also hoping for 700+ mA, but mine measured at "only" 600 mA... I put a Seoul in it yesterday, and it rocks. SSC P4 SV0 color bin from PhotonFanatic is very nice, BTW.


ARGHHH. I wonder if its possible to bump it up via the ol' "resistor trick"?
 

c0t0d0s0

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cratz2 said:
Tell me you took before and after beamshots?
popcorn.gif

Sorry, didn't think of that until after the job was finished :( Anyway, the beam pattern is similar to the original, nice hotspot and smooth spillbeam, except everything is clearly 2x brighter than before ;)
 

c0t0d0s0

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KDOG3 said:
ARGHHH. I wonder if its possible to bump it up via the ol' "resistor trick"?

Dunno, I didn't even bother removing the PCB... Anyway, I doubt the difference between 600 and 700mA is going to be very noticeable... but let me tell you, it is very noticeable between 600mA and 1.15A: I've got another SSC P4 running in a G&P 7W K2 module... heat management is an issue though, not enough thermal mass, because those things seem to be made outta soda cans... it would start to color shift towards blue after 45 seconds of operation or so. I had to fill the inside of the module with thermal epoxy, that helped a lot! :devil:
 

KDOG3

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c0t0d0s0 said:
. I had to fill the inside of the module with thermal epoxy, that helped a lot! :devil:

What do you mean "fill the inside of the module w/ thermal epoxy"? You just goop in all over the electronics? Is that good for it?
 

c0t0d0s0

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As long as the epoxy is not electrically conductive or capacitive, it shouldn't affect the electronics.
 

jsr

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Would it be more cost-effective to pick up one of the Litemania (Sola-Tek), Wolf-Eyes, or unbranded Sola-Tek Cree drop-in modules that fit D26/P60 lights? Unless you really want a SSC P4 light. I just modded my SL Scorpion LED with a SSC P4 USWOI and it's forkin SWEEEET! I have no experience with Crees. I chose the SSC P4 because they work well in Lux reflectors. But since those Cree modules have reflectors made for them, they should be quite nice also.
 

pete7226

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Even if it does at 750 there is no way it puts out more than 100 lumens or so. I've compared it with my L2 and L5 and although a nice output it is definitely dimmer than both lights.
 

cratz2

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Really? A Cree at 750 mA is dimmer than an L2? I thought a Cree at 750 mA was in the 140 Lumen range... at the very minimum.

I'd expect it to put out less flood, but a radically hotter hotspot. Basically what I imagine would be the spillbeam of a Cree at 750 mA would be about 1/2 to 2/3 as bright as the flood of a good L2/L4 and the extra lumens would be in the hotspot.

sigh.gif
 

Owen

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How hard is it to get at the converter on the G&P drop-in?
I'm looking for something SF-compatible to try a P4 in with a DB1000.
Hope fully potting it with AA epoxy will be good enough for moderate use.
 

KDOG3

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I still don't understand this " potting ". I can't seem to accept the mental picture of the driver board with a spoonful of goop all over it. That can't be right, right?
 

cratz2

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Hrmm... well, when I think of the word 'potting', I think of the driver/LED being encased with an epoxy to prevent reverse engineering. When I think of heat issues, I think of a thermal grease that sets up. Not goopy at all but I've never modded a G&P module though my all time favorite light has a modded G&P with the absolute whitest LED I've ever seen. It does get warm if run on 2 R123s or 2 17500s, I either run it on 2 CR123s or 1 17670 and there is no real heat issue.
 

KDOG3

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Hmmm. I may have to get one of (or two) of the 17670's. Whats a good brand of batteries and charger to get?
 

cratz2

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I've got most of mine from AW and have never had any issues. He has the new dual mode/zone/mA charger but I just have the dumb one. I just charge one cell at a time anyway.
 

Henry

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Sorry to hijack this thread, but does anyone know what the original non Cree version of the Lumapower M1 runs at? I figure since someone already mentioned it, it couldn't hurt to ask.
 
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KDOG3

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I see that lighthound has the AW 17670 battery but there are two chargers. Theres a DSD charger, and an Ultrafire version. Anyone want to suggest the best setup?
 
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