How to clean threads and apply Lube to them correctly?

I used the search function but didn't come up with anything that answered this question. Most threads were just about which kind of Lube to use, but now how to put it on once you own it.

My question is how should I apply lube to my lights? I have some Nyogel 760G and would love to know the correct way of applying it to my lights (Jetbeam C-LE, D Mini, L1DCE)? I was thinking maybe by using a Q Tip, but wasn't sure because maybe the Q Tip will get the threads dirty when the fine pieces of cotten come off and get stuck into the threads. I also thought that maybe a Tissue would work but wasn't sure about that either.

Could everyone list how they apply lube to the threads on their lights, or if there is a correct proven way on how to do it please list that. Thanks in advance.

I clean out my threads with a low lint tissue (Kimwipes) dipped in isopropanol. Then with my fingertip I apply a very light coat of silicone grease (non-conducting) and reassemble. Most of my lights are silky smooth to operate, so I can't be doing too much wrong. For lights which get reasonable use, I probably do this every couple of months.

gadgetnerd said:

I clean out my threads with a low lint tissue (Kimwipes) dipped in isopropanol. Then with my fingertip I apply a very light coat of silicone grease (non-conducting) and reassemble. Most of my lights are silky smooth to operate, so I can't be doing too much wrong. For lights which get reasonable use, I probably do this every couple of months.

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Same procedure as I use. I do this at least once per month on my user's.

Don't use petroleum based lube unless specifically recommended by the manufacture (such as Mag) or else it might disintegrate your O ring. I simply wipe it off with a cotton cloth, then apply silicone plumber's grease.

Thanks for the reply guys.


I will be using Nyogel 760G on my lights as recomended by most users on here. I normally don't have to lube many lights, but my Jetbeam C-LE REALLY REALLY needed it!

If anyone else does it a different way, or if the way DUQ suggested is the way to go please add that as well.

When threads are "gritty" I use an old toothbrush to clean the threads before applying lube. My Gladius tailcap felt like there was sand in the threads, after cleaning it was smooth as silk. For the other end, when small bits of lint, etc. end up on the reflector or inner lens, I use canned air to blow it out.

Paladin

If you're cleaning and lubing threads shouldn't you also lube the O-ring at the same time? And if you do, do you remove it (how?) or just lube over it?

I use C fold towels [dont use TP or napkins since they tend to disintegrate when you use them to rub off the previous lube and you'll wind up having paper fiber in your threads]cleaning usually involve forcing the towel into the threads with your thumbnail ....I dont have rubbing alcohol handy, so I just use water when necessary

since I use nyogel [760G], it comes with a narrow application tip. I simply draw 2-3 vertical lines that cover all threads, then smear it out evenly before replacing the bezel or tailcap back on, make sure you work it around:screw in, out, in, out a couple times to ensure its spread out evenly.

as for the o-rings, its best to take them out, fill some lube in the o-ring space on the torch body, replace the o-ring then move it around to ensure even application underneath, place some on the o-ring if the bezels loose or the light will be seeing alot of water, thats really about it.

depending on usage, lubrication should be done once every 1-2 months

adirondackdestroyer said:

If anyone else does it a different way, or if the way DUQ suggested is the way to go please add that as well.

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Credit goes to gadgetnerd

DUQ said:

Credit goes to gadgetnerd

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Thanks mate, nice to know I can do something properly!

FWIW, here is what I do.

I clean threads using Q-tips. First wiping dry, to get as much of the old lube up as possible, then wet with isopropanol (rubbing alcohol), then wipe with a clean, dry end. I continue alternating wet/dry until the Q-tip stays clean. I lube using the Nyogel 760C, running two or three beads across the threads, then using my (clean) fingers to work the lube into the threads, until I can see/feel that there is enough lube. Then I put the mating pieces back together and work them back and forth to distribute the lube, if I sense any metal on metal rubbing, I'll add more lube.

With O-rings, usually I am lazy, I leave them in place, clean them along with the threads, and spread lube on top of them. The right thing to do is to (carefully) remove the O-ring, clean it and the O-ring groove. I spread spread lube in the groove with my finger, and I put a film of lube on the O-ring with my fingers before installing it.

Another thing to do when lubing threads is to clean the electrical contact surfaces. I have a Fenix L2T, when it was new it seemed to accumulate alot of gunk in both the head and the tailcap (maybe from too much factory lube?). Generally, Q-tips with isopropanol would do the job. On an older light, if terminals get corroded, a pink pencil eraser will rub off the corrosion, follow that up with isopropanol. I have seen many recommendations on CPF for DeOxit and DeOxit gold for contact cleaning and protecting, I have not tried them myself.

For a larger light like a C or D Mag, for cleaning threads with lots of old lube, for the parts that can be submerged, I will clean them in a bucket with water and dish detergent and scrub the threads with a toothbrush. Then I rinse in clean water, and wait until they are fully dry before relubing and assembling.

EssLight

i just spray 'silicoln spray' on anything and everything, never cause a problem with anything, and i am to lasy to complicate things. contacts, o-rings, hinges, threads, that stuff works on anything. even makes wall switches easy to clean off, has not altered plastics or acrylics, or glass, even though its mostly high volitile solvent.

for nasty cheap china threads that are "gritty" as mentioned above, i use a terry cloth towel on them first, the loops of the terry cloth sink into the thread patterns quick, and relieve it of any metals hanging about

VidPro said:

i just spray 'silicoln spray' on anything and everything, never cause a problem with anything...

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your lucky...silicone sprays i've used arent conductive, so if you accidently sprayed some into the contact regions at the end of the body and that stuff flowed in...your going to be looking at serious contact problems +

the spray nozzles like a fan almost, onces I used are recommended as for garage door openers...now, NYOGEL!

EssLight said:

FWIW, here is what I do.

I clean threads using Q-tips. First wiping dry, to get as much of the old lube up as possible, then wet with isopropanol (rubbing alcohol), then wipe with a clean, dry end. I continue alternating wet/dry until the Q-tip stays clean.

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When using Q-tips haven't you ever had them get caught by imperfections in the thread causing a wholesale ripping and tearing of the Q-tip? Then the cotton unravels and gets embedded in the threads.

I use a micro fiber towel for cleaning. Works very well.

Uncle Bob said:

When using Q-tips haven't you ever had them get caught by imperfections in the thread causing a wholesale ripping and tearing of the Q-tip? Then the cotton unravels and gets embedded in the threads.

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I have not had that problem before. Occasionally a cotton fiber or two may come off and stick to the threads as I am working, a clean Q-tip wet with isopropanol usually picks it back up.

Um, just curious, how jagged does a thread have to be to cause "wholesale ripping and tearing"? Maybe a bit less pressure applied to the Q-tip would reduce the problem?

For the record, I am using generic cotton swabs, not name brand Q-tips, maybe what I use has less cotton on the tip and doesn't unravel as easy.

Thanks for all the replies guys. I did the first method that Gadgetnerd (sorry about that by the way ) gave me.


I have one more question though.

I was wondering if the threads and O ringsthat are near the head of the light should be lubed. I ask this because my D Mini has threads on the head of the light and two O rings (one in front of the lens and one behind the threads near the front of the light). Should all of these threads be lubed and should both O rings be lubed up as well? I wasn't sure since that one O ring is in front of and touching the lens.

Thanks again

Illum_the_nation said:

your lucky...silicone sprays i've used arent conductive, so if you accidently sprayed some into the contact regions at the end of the body and that stuff flowed in...your going to be looking at serious contact problems +

the spray nozzles like a fan almost, onces I used are recommended as for garage door openers...now, NYOGEL!

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indeed it does go all over the place.
but i have had the opposite results, when sprayed on contacts, EVEN on battery contacts and batteries themselves, it stops the oxidations, and has kept the lights working better for longer. it even works great on switches, in switches, and in Pots even to keep them from burping.
i discovered it when we found out that "Tuner Cleaner" came in 2 styles, one was just a cleaner, the other was a cleaner lubricant, with silicoln.
the "tuner cleaner" with lubricant would work for years longer than the drying cleaner.

i know its non-conductive, and could not explain WHY it works on contacts that Require conduction, so i just assume that Oxidation, and metal ruboff, is worse than its insulation. (metal oxides are non-conductive or less conductive)

i wont use conductive junk because sometime some where, when you least expect it, a Amonnia, or solvent or something that frees up the conductor,used for cleaning, it will have it land somewhere i dont want it.
and if I am spraying silicoln spray , which is also a cleaner, willy nilly like i do, its sure to solvent a conductive lube, and cause it to travel to places where it is undesirable.

i guess it comes down to, which is worse, a non-conductive substance getting somewhere you dont want it, or a conductive substance getting where you dont want it.

i think the idea of putting conductive stuff on THREADS that need to conduct, is a good idea, i have just never had threads that did not already conduct well.

I just cleaned a FIFTY year old Eveready 5 D cell Big Jim, using gadgetnerd's technique, and the end-cap as well as the reflector turn like butter now. The key with this old unit was to really get out the grit from the threads and work in the silicone. This was not easy for the end cap, as it contains a spring to hold the batteries firm, which comes out only when carefully urged.

This light, BTW, is the predecessor of the Mag series, and with fresh batteries and bulb still has a good throw.

For my newer lights, it looks like the simple method is the way to go as well. Lithium grease can be used, as I have read on these Forums that Inova puts that into their current models.

-HAK

EssLight said:

I have not had that problem before. Occasionally a cotton fiber or two may come off and stick to the threads as I am working, a clean Q-tip wet with isopropanol usually picks it back up.

Um, just curious, how jagged does a thread have to be to cause "wholesale ripping and tearing"? Maybe a bit less pressure applied to the Q-tip would reduce the problem?

For the record, I am using generic cotton swabs, not name brand Q-tips, maybe what I use has less cotton on the tip and doesn't unravel as easy.

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I will probably try the methods recommended in this thread (Q-tips, paper/fiber towels) and see which works best. I've lubed my O-rings/threads before by just using my finger tip but haven't tried the "cleaning first" method by removing the O-ring and then replacing it.