Need help on Surefires

Hello!

I've decided to buy a Surefire. However, I'm not sure which one. Here are my thoughts so far:
1. I prefer a Surefire with 2 cells. 3 is too much, both in size, price and operating cost.
2. I would like this light to be an EDC and at the same time capable of stunning an attacker (at least to a certain degree, I know you need 225 lumen for a GOOD self defense).

I then end up with 2 lights. 6P and the regular E2 GM. Is the 6P THAT much bigger than the E2? I like the HOLA option. Or do you think I should go for the E2 anyway? I could of course allow myself the luxury of buying E2e HA, but I don't use my flashlight in harsh conditions anyway, so HA should not be neccessary, and Pyrex....well only 10% more light than lexan...

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by recercare:

2.... I then end up with 2 lights. 6P and the regular E2 GM. Is the 6P THAT much bigger than the E2?...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Here's a pic of my 6P and E2 HA for size comparison. Why don't you get the e2e?

Well, I have doubt about paying that much for a light that "only" produces 60 lumens.

I will probobly be banished to some far off
land for saying this, but i would get the 6p
before i would the e2\e2e.The reason is that
the the 6p seems way brighter than the e2
when you shine it on something.It also has
a brighter hot spot, and shines farther than
the e2.Why don't you just get the M2 and stop fooling around?

The p61 is obviously brighter that the p60, but in which way? Does it just throw longer, or does it illuminate the peripheral area more as well?

If you only are going to get one, and you're serious about wanting a high output option, get the M2....if not, get the E2/E2e.

If you want 2 lights (to allow you to have a compact EDC 2 cell and a powerfull 3 cell), buy an E2/E2e and a M3 (turbo not necessary IMO - it is for producing a longer "throw", not close-up power). I have an M2 (P61 LA), E2e (MN03 LA), and a CM3 (C3-HA with an M2 bezel)(P90 LA).

Good luck on your choice!!!

That's right -
The SureFire HOLAs are bigger beams. They are usually a little more intense, certainly to start with.

Personally, I like the E2e because it has the LOTC and is better for clipping to inside my trouser pocket.

Regarding HA - Anodising will allow scratches and general wear to appear far, far more quickly compared to HA. I have an E1-GM that is covered with scratches and worn round the Bezel rim, and the knurling less pronounced. The Lexan is slightly scratched, and the rubber pressure switch is practically bald. A years or so EDC.
But, compared to my E2-GM (new), the wear is not as obvious compared to the wear on my C2 & 12PM Bezel.

If you're not going to get HA, I would suggest GM because it helps hide the wear.

I would suggest you get the D2 and P61 (to try). I personally EDC the E2e. I have no training or experience with using a light as a tool to help me run away from an attacter. I would be pressing 999 on my mobile rather then reaching for my SureFire I would expect.

Al

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by kogatana:
"I would like this light to be an EDC…"
...One of my older, curmudgeonly staff members once quipped "…ooohhh, what a very bright flashlight that young man has and how he was able to blind the bad guy, and OH!, how profusely that young man with the bright flashlight is
bleeding because he did not have anything else to defend himself."<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Don't forget..."ooh...what a nice flashlight he has....I think I will make it MINE..."

recercare if you are thinking of buying two lights get the 6P $67.50 and the A19 adapter for $16.50 shipped from LPS. For $84 shipped you get 2 lights and a maximum of 200 lumens. You can than use the P60, P61, P90 and P91. Quite of bit of vesatlity for a small price.

Personally I would go with the E2 for size, but if you really want the HOLA lamp you need the 6P. In can case here are some pics. The 6P is the same physical size as the D2. As far as the P61 vs P60, the P61 is a bit brighter but much wider. I would say the P61 is 10% brigher, with about 50% larger pool of light.



and

Thank you for helping

I've now decided to go for the 6P. The reason is:

1. Import tax/custom to Sweden is about 25$ for each flashlight. That means buying many Surefires will cost a fortune in taxes and shipping. If I buy the 6P I can (with som additional equipment) use p60/61/90/91.
2. The difference in size compared with E2 is not THAT huge, and I'll probably carry it in a little bag anyway.
3. I got an offer on the 6P sent as a gift, that means no taxes, which makes the 6p 25$ cheaper than the E2.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by recercare:
I've now decided to go for the 6P.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Recercare,

I believe that is a decision you will never regret, for all the reasons mentioned here.
It is, quite literally one of the most versatile, adaptable and convertible flashlights currently available.

As for initially not wanting a 3x123 light, I will bet that you will change your mind within a few weeks sfter getting your 6P.

In terms of the E2's brightness compared to the P60, it's been my experience that the MN03 has an excellent widely dispersed beam, which provides moderately to bright near field illumination. It doesn't project very far, and no aspect of its beam seems actually "brilliant" to me. The P60, because it is less dispersed and more focused, is significantly and very noticeably brighter and projects further, though these differences may not be as obvious in a photo as they are in actuality.

The 6P is perfectly EDC, especially in a convenient belt holster, which is how I carry all my lights except the ARC AAAle. Just as an experiment, for two weeks I EDC
my 9P(original model with round body and bezel and retrofit L.O.tailcap) in a Surefire nylon holster and was literally not aware of it after the first few hours. It doesn't even show beneath a suit jacket.

Brightnorm

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Brock:
......"BEAM PICS"......
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Brock,

I've always found your pics and the way they are presented particularly fine. I don't yet have a digital camera, but I was an avid film amateur for years and I appreciate the consistancy and organization of your beam shots. If isn't too much trouble, would you explain just how you set up your beam pics?

Another thought: Your "Brock Charts" are extremely useful and conveniently click-connected to your review pages. Have you considered adding a comprehensive beam pic page, perhaps organized in the same manner as your spec. charts? It would make your site truly unique and even more useful to Flashaholics, or to some lucky Websurfers.

Brightnorm

I love my E2 for EDC but the 6P is much more versatile. In addition to the four different bulbs with the A19 adaptor(great pics, BTW), you can also make it into a 6R rechargeable with the A14 adaptor, R60 bulb, B65 batttery and charger. Only 50 lumens but cheap to operate. Also the 6P can take the Z32 shock-mount bezel (about $20) from the shotgun lights. This means that, instead of breaking your bulb half the time when you drop your 6P, it will almost never break. If it saves one bulb, it has paid for itself. Also, the 6P can take a bezel mounted or tailcap mounted lanyard ring and has many more filters, beamshapers, etc. available than the E2. Its the core component of a system, and hours of entertainment shuffling components around. If you could find them all, you can make some uniquely colored 6Ps by combining parts from all the colors made over the years: gunmetal grey, black, clear anodize(silver), medium blue, olive drab, violet and you could even use the bezels and tailcaps from the red and green Christmas-issue 3Ps they made years ago.
Also, the newer 6Ps come with the lock-out tailcap
One of my best-sellers is the Z3 CombatLight fitted with the Z32 bezel and P91 bulb and the standard lanyard on the tailcap. For $110, its a close match to the M3 for about half the price. You could make your 6P into the same thing except for the reduced-diameter gripping section in the middle of the Z3 which is for use with the Rodgers method of holding a SureFire CombatLight. Since we have the superior Harries technique (works with any flashlight), you don't need a CombatLight and the modified 6P works great!

Enjoy,

Steve

Oh if I only had the time The problem is when I do a shot I have a camera set up and the light I take in that shot. I have gone through 3 cameras so far so it would be hard to take the "same" shot with each light as time passed.

Basically what I do is lock the camera settings to whatever, the "middle" light likes then put it on a tripod and take a shot of each light beam. If I could always use the same camera and setting and location (my wife keeps moving furniture) I could add that, but right now I just have to take them all at the same time. I also have my lights scattered all over the house and work, so I don't always have the right ones in the right places, not to mention I have to send some back to their owners.

Thanks for the compliments and suggestions though. One of my next big steps is going to be to rate the dimmer incandescents with the LED metering scale. That should allow people to better judge LED to incandescent, and have a better idea of how bright a light might be.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Brock:
Oh if I only had the time......(my wife keeps moving furniture).....
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Brock, that explains it. I know what it is to have a busy life that often results in "chaos" in the home!

I think that LED metering project is a great idea. Any idea when it might be up?

Best regards,
Brightnorm