Managed to talk myself out of a L1D-CE last night

racerx2oo3

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Aug 1, 2005
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I've been seriously considering getting a new Fenix L1D-CE, for use as a new EDC light. However, last night as I was walking back to my bedroom with the house lights off back there, I (as usual) pulled out my Fenix L1P to light the hallway and the bedroom so I could grab my book. I just started thinking, how much brighter do I really need? Then while using the same light to wheel the trash cans out to the curb, I was again impressed with the L1P's ability to light up the fence in my back yard from the front yard. The L1P definately isn't a replacement for my Thor, but that's why I also own a Thor.

I still will probably pick up a more powerful light one of these days, but now I'm thinking that maybe I'll just wait a bit and see what happens with the 1AA form factor lights in the next 18 months or so.

I may still pick up a Rex Light if the specs are decent, but only if I can take advantage of the PayPal $15 rebate, if Kai's site doesn't work with the rebate, I'll probably skip that one too.

Sean
 

yellow

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You are totally wrong.
OK, the L1D is brighter than the L1P, but it is also LESS BRIGHT.
And thats the real advantage.
 

jc28841

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...and there's runtime too :)

The max/turbo is really much brighter but ringy. Lost my L1P, but the L1D CE on medium is just about equal to L1T on high (by my eyes anyway).
And if you're so inclined, there's strobe to annoy your friends or get attention.
 

gunga

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Nov 29, 2006
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Overall, tis true. It's want vs need. We don't really need that many lights or very cool lights. I have several cree lights coming and a few in the collection. I "need" maybe one, perhaps 2? I want several.

IF you're looking for reasons tho:

- runtime and modes. A very functional low for 23 hours? A great high for 2 hours? Medium is good for 5-6 hours also. Just amazing.
- great UI that starts on low.
- nice construction and finish, seems superior to the old Fenixes.

I missed out on the Paypal $15 rebate (you only had a week to sign up) but I think Rexlight could be a good one. Just a bit unknown on quality, runtimes etc. I may get one anyways.

Note: If you don't mind a twisty, Jetbeam C-LE is very nice too (assuming you get one with decent threads). Not as bright as the Fenix, but very smooth beam, and quite a bit smaller. Nice finish/knurling too.
 

cratz2

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Apr 6, 2003
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I agree with all of you guys!
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Personally, I'm holding out for a natural L1D CE and if that is never offered, then I won't get one. But I think I might pick up an L2D in the next couple months. For me, it will be more about the low levels and the longer runtime.

As to the brightness issue, I totally agree with the OP. Almost all of my single level lights are either plenty bright or too bright already. The crazy brightness is nice to have when needed, but indoors, usually somewhere around 5 lumens is plenty for me. I just prefer the Lux/Cree/SSC lights because of their more consistant beam color vs most 5mm LEDs.
 

Lobo

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cratz2 said:
I agree with all of you guys!
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And I agree with you! :laughing:
As Gunga said, it's want vs need. My L1P(actually L2P with L1P-body) and a River Rock LED covers 99% of my lighting tasks. And the L1P has withstand plenty of abuse, so I feel it's reliable. Occasionaly I need throw, but that's rare, and then I don't need monster throw, a cheap 4D lantern or a MagLED is enough. The L1P really has the perfect amount of brightness, size and runtime for almost anything. Brighter and lower levels and longer runtime is really good to have, but not absolutely necessary. But of course, if you can get something better, why not get it! :D
 

bluecrow76

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Jul 10, 2006
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Between my L1D-CE and Lumahunter M1, I don't need anything else... but I just can't help buying more!!! Looking forward to checking out the Rexlight and comparing it to the L1D-CE.
 

Blindasabat

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racerx2oo3 said:
Managed to talk myself out of a L1D-CE...
I've done that about five times now. And counting. I want one, but I don't need one. I could justify it if it had an orange peel reflector and a momentary switch, but since it doesn't....
 

flashy bazook

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Jan 7, 2007
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let me put it to you this way...you will resist successfully for a while, but then the 2xAA battery tube will come out for the L1D CE meaning you can switch between one great EDC to an even greater all around pocket rocket. Beyond the L2D CE there are really very few lights, and then they will be very large, use 4x or even rechargeable formfactors, and be multiples in terms of weight. Oh, and they'll use incan bulbs that need to be changed regularly. (leaving HID's out of it for now).

let's hear then whether...resistance is futile!

and just to add to the pressure just a little bit, the 2xAA tube is supposed to be coming out pretty soon, during March even!
 

Burgess

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a picture is worth a thousand words . . . .


That chart by Chevrofreak says it all !
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T4R06

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Sep 12, 2006
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Rocky Hill, CT
im really impressed with this light (L1D) im using 14500 on it and maybe im lucky because i dont have rings on it. nice big hotspot. bigger than d-mini with OP reflector

i didnt do anything in regards twisting the head or what. and also i found that the head is totally unlocked! no glue or something.

bought it @ lighthound and they said it was the latest batch. i also notice comparing the tint vs d-mini. all i can say is wow! d-mini tint will look pinkish with the tint of L1D

now im thinking to sell my d-mini, and also it really impress me on throw. close to d-mini
 

zigziggityzoo

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Jan 12, 2007
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Rob187 said:
Chart doesn't show beam quality, if that is important to you...

I don't know about you, but I actually USE my light for utility purposes. I don't stare at it's luminance for beam quality. So long as the hotspot is in the middle and it's got decent spill, I could care less if there are ever so faint, barely noticeable, optical-illusion rings present in it's projection. They aren't there unless you're looking for them, and even then it can be hard to notice.

Call me crazy, crude, or novice at the hobby of flashlight collecting, but that's my thought on the matter: If it does the job it's supposed to do, then it's a good light (which, incidentally, is the same theory many use for Alcohol - I suppose that makes them the opposite of a connoisseur, which is what I suppose I must be).

But that's just me.
 

r0b0r

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May 18, 2006
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Beam quality?

If you're not staring at the beam on a white wall six feet from your face, then the ringiness is of no consequence. As a tool for outside illumination the defined corona is hardly noticable and does not hinder performance.

I can totally understand the use of a sputtered or OP reflector if a smooth flood for upclose work is your primary desire.

Personally, I find the outdoor performance more important. For upclose night vision friendly work, something like the fenix E0 or Arc is more to my liking - plus, it's much easier to hold in my mouth :p
(the L1D and lanyard is a bit suggestive for this role ;o)

Oh, and there's always a slip on diffuser. Sure you loose light, but that can be a *good* thing, considering the L1D's not-so-low low.
Looking to make one for the L1D that can be easily stowed and accessed.
 

kurni

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Aug 7, 2006
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Sydney, Australia
I actually wish that my L1D turbo is as bright as L2D turbo. I'm using a home-made snap-on diffuser; the beam is so smooth - I can hardly see a hot spot. I find that dispersed light works better than being constrained to a hot spot. Dispersed L2D is better to work outdoor, but I don't like my torch HOT.

Whenever I want the throw, I just snap the diffuser out.

KK
 

Pook

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Feb 26, 2006
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He's done the sensible thing, we all know it.... we're just jealous :)
 
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