Why does my L5 look funny?

So I recently bought an L5 off a friend who gave me a killer deal, and I fell in love with the light instantly. I looked at some pictures online and noticed that there is a slight difference in the KL5 head on the piece that threads onto the flashlight body, highlighted here in the picture (courtesy of the Surefire website):



Rather than being tapered down from the diameter of the head to the diameter of the body, mine steps down to a diameter that is very, very slightly larger than the body:



Is my light any different than the one pictured on the Surefire website? I have scoured the internet for pictures of a KL5 head that steps down rather than tapers down, and I haven't been able to find anything. Does anyone know the significance of this difference?

Newer and older version. Nothing funny about it. Your L5 is perfectly legit.

You received the earlier version of the L5. When they first came out, they were all tapered like that. The later versions had the step down version. Either way, they were both subject to variances in beam quality and donut holes.

It is generally a matter of personal preference of which one was better.

In the meantime, enjoy the light. It is a great light overall.

rookie said:

You received the earlier version of the L5. When they first came out, they were all tapered like that. The later versions had the step down version.

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So is mine earlier or later? Mine is in the lower picture, with the step down instead of the taper.

I believe yours is the older sir

I have the same as you and was wondering if it was a newer or older version.
I love my L5!!! Its even better with the 2 stage tailcap mod. With a low and high mode, my L5 has been eating its lithium a bit slower.

It's interesting that the older L5 has one more patent on the body. I looked it up on the US patent office website and see that the patent is for the removable clip. Old or new, I am glad that I got the L5 as my first proper (read: not a toy) flashlight. I feel like I could throw this thing down a mountain and it would still be just as functional as it was before.

I'm thinking of sending it off to Milkyspit to swap the LED and driver out for a SSC P4 (USWOH) and the driver out of an L6. I really like the tint, output, and beam out of the LuxV thats in there right now, but a little more throw and a lot more runtime sound like a good mod to me. What do you guys think?

The "step down" is the newer version and the "taper" is the older version. Either way the Surefire L5 is a great light. The two stage tailcap mod is an excellent addition. If you're thinking of further mods than the Milkman is definately the way to go. Cheers.

Leave your L5 alone. It is one awesome light. Mine runs for two hours on one 18650, and put out a beautiful beam and flood. Surefire will later be changing the L5 to a Seoul, or Cree, and you won't be able to get a nice lux V L5, or KL5. Get another light, and keep the L5 for a work light, close up work like rummaging around in your garage, or attic, or just turn the lights out and have fun with it. I will never mod my KL5's emitter.

Bill

cmaylodm,

Theres a few options to consider. Price is usually a factor. If it were not,... do whatever the heck you want. It's fun to do things differently than most. But there are also reasons most people don't do those things.
1. Get an L6 and just swap the emitter instead of mix & matching non-compatable parts(L6 guts in a L5 head). Plus then you have an L6 head with an empty shell(send directly to me)The cost,time,and construction would be pointless(in my opinion) instead of taking the more straight forward approach.

2. Use your KL5 head and swap the emitter for a better binned LUX V. Better tint, Maybe a bit more output.

3. For cost reasons, it would seem more logical to buy a KL3 head, replace the optic for an Mc27r reflector and swap the LUX III for an SSC P4 emitter. Great output, long runtime, and it will still screw onto the L5 body. Buy a cell extender for even longer runtime. Cheapest option, and you would probably be happy with it.

Prices rounded off on the higher side for camparison
________________________________________________________________________
KL3......................$60.00...Retail
SSC P4.................$13.00
Mc27r Reflector......$30.00
Cell extender..........$25.00
Cost to have modded if you can't do it yourself......?

Total....................$128.00**

________________________________________________________________________
L6........................$265.00... Retail
SSc P4..................$13.00
L5 .......................$189.00... Retail
Cost to have it modded......?

Total.....................$467.00**

**price for parts only, not including paying someone to do the mod, if you don't have the ability

Whatever you decide to to, I hope you are happy with it.
I would definetly do the tailcap 2 stage mod. It's very simple. Goes something like this.

Insert small needle nose pliers or snap-ring pliers into the holes on the top of the tailcap/ unscrew/ install (solder) resistor between the contacts of the spring and metal disc you see when looking directly into the bottom of the tailcap. Turn the tailcap a little for LOW and Press the button for HIGH. Takes about 15 minutes and less than .40 cents to do.

DaFABRICATA,

Getting an L6 is out of my price range. I thought about swapping the emitter for a better bin, but the high end LuxV emitters are expensive and inefficient when compared to P4s. The KL3 mod sounds nice, that way I could have a throwy head and a floody one. At this rate I am going to be broke in no time!

cmaylodm said:

DaFABRICATA,

Getting an L6 is out of my price range. I thought about swapping the emitter for a better bin, but the high end LuxV emitters are expensive and inefficient when compared to P4s. The KL3 mod sounds nice, that way I could have a throwy head and a floody one. At this rate I am going to be broke in no time!

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TELL ME ABOUT IT!!!!
I added up all my lights the other day....... :rock: :naughty:
But I get a HUGE smile on my face everytime I look at 'em, and an even bigger smile everytime I use 'em.
If it makes me happy, thats all that matters!!

I want to do the L6 mod too (where to get a KL6 these days?). But I won't be touching my L5 anytime soon, this thing is just right.

It looks normal to me

Plus you still need to get a turbohead :naughty: I still think a 2-stage clicky would be nice on that light. If you could bore that body to run an 18650, I'd say go that route because you really won't get too much more overall output with the SSC P4 over the LuxV...just more throw(but thats what the turbohead is for ). Grab a 2-stage clicky and some AW 18650's and put that extra cash towards some "legos".....

FYI his L5 has a very nice tint for a LuxV, I should know as the light was previously mine I hand picked it between a few locally, and his had the best tint of them all...I would call it a "creamy white'. It does have a VERY SLIGHT doughnut hole, but I only noticed it at certain distances(which is normal on the L5's). Actually, I am getting my tax money back probably today and am itching to get a new Surefire....I may have to pick myself up another L5 :rock: Damn you Dale!

cmaylodm said:

I'm thinking of sending it off to Milkyspit to swap the LED and driver out for a SSC P4 (USWOH) and the driver out of an L6. I really like the tint, output, and beam out of the LuxV thats in there right now, but a little more throw and a lot more runtime sound like a good mod to me. What do you guys think?

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Unlike you, I do NOT like the tint, output and beam on my newest L5(I have a few), so Milky WILL be performing the exact mod you're describing on mine.

After thinking about it overnight, I think I'll end up getting a C3 HA with turbohead and one of those AW turbohead towers, and running a P4 at an amp on that setup. That way I get to keep the L5 as it is, I get my throwy and efficient Seoul setup, and I get some Surefire incan goodness.

Excellent idea

It looks like you have a KL3 on a L5 body. What's printed on the bezel, KL3 or KL5?

slick228 said:

It looks like you have a KL3 on a L5 body. What's printed on the bezel, KL3 or KL5?

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It is NOT a KL3 for sure. BIG difference in beam pattern and output. His is a full-blooded L5 with KL5 and all