Suggest me: how to mod well a mag 2c

Hi guys, I and my friend filippo want to mod a mag 2c, is our first mod and we 'd like you to suggest us some great way to do it without installing a led..
Filippo hates them...
We was thinking to mod it with 3x CR123A batteries standard reflector and 6d krypton bulb, but we aren't sure if this bulb is the best for this kind of mod

sorry for our Italian-English and thx

AW is about to sell some Li-Ion C cells. You could put two of them in a 2 C (along with his extender) and run a ROP high (or low) bulb. Easy mod and a ton of lumens and runtime.

Josey said:

a ton of lumens and runtime.

Click to expand...

you mean more than 130 lumen!!

it could be nice:lolsign:

"In a nutshell, the ROP is a hotwire incandescent light capable of delivering 1150 lumens at the bulb before optical losses. Of course, this amount of light tends to be quite pleasing except when you are on the receiving end! The Roar of the Pelican was named for the fact that it uses a Pelican Big D SLA light's bulbs, installed in a Mag housing.



Part of the attraction is that it is easy to build, it requires no special bipin holders or extensive modifications to the light. If you can change batteries and bulbs, you can build this light! You also have a choice of two lamp assembles for high and low output. "Low" produces something in the range of 550 bulb lumens, so its name is only relative!"

You might like to read more here.

http://lights.lightrefineries.org/?page_id=9

It seems better than the first...is it expensive in your opinion?

As jimjones3630 says, the ROP high will be way, way more than 130 lumens. The ROP high and low bulbs come in a package that sells for about $10 and includes one of each. You might also want a boro window because of the heat, and that will cost about $5. And you might also want a metal reflector, which will cost $25 or so. If you want to get more serious later, you can do some resistance modding to the switch and tailcap and make the light brighter still.

I think the ROP high is approximately 1000 lumens and needs a metal reflector and glass lens if it's going to be run more than a few seconds at a time.

The ROP Low is also very bright. About 400 lumens, I think. Definately well over 200 lumens. And I've run mine with a plastic reflector and a UCL lens and the reflector is in 100% good condition. I run mine on 2x18650 cells and get about 1 hour of good brightness. Those LiIon C cells would be sweet as heck.

As far as the lesser bulbs, the standard 3x123 mod is to use either a KPR112 or KPR113 bulb. It's significantly overdriving the bulb, but that's where you get the better whiteness and the higher output. I think this is putting out close to 180 Lumens or so. It seems as bright as the Streamlight TL-3, but with a much wider beam.

A lot of guys will also sputter the reflector for a smoother beam. This is good for getting a Surefire-like beam, but you will sacrifice throw of course.

so do you think that I can use safely the ROP low with standard lens and reflector also for a long time without any damage ?

Nope, for long runtimes you need to stay below 10 Watts. The highest wattage bulb I know of that meets this criterion (under 10 Watts and uses 7.2V) is the Pelican 3804, which runs at 8 Watts.

well, it seems to be the most probable idea... at the end we may mod in this way...wow...a 2c is able to become with few costs a marvellous torch
thx you've been kind and prepared

I highly suggest the 2C ROP. I have one that uses the Low output bulb, which is hardly low output. It is around 300+ lumens out the front. I run it with two protected 18650 cells with a Borofloat lens,Heavy Stipple metal reflector, and a deep tailcap. It is an awesome light which can be had for around $100 or so depending on how you want to do it. You can also sometimes find completely made ones in the Custom forums.

FILIPPO said:

so do you think that I can use safely the ROP low with standard lens and reflector also for a long time without any damage ?

Click to expand...

My ROP Low is in a pewter 2C host and uses a stock Mag reflector that I sputtered for a smoother beam, a UCL lens (just for more light output) and 2 unprotected 18650 cells though I'd recomment protected 18650s until you are 100% sure and safe about LiIon cells. I've probably put it through 10 charge cycles and the reflector is in no way deformed or melted. I mean, I've never just let the light run for an hour straight, but I've used it MANY times for 10 minutes at a time.

This page covers IsaacHayes' killer CYAN light built in a 2C M/\G host. It is my favorite 2C M/\G mod.

You could also power a 2C with either 3 123's or 2 18650 with a 5 cell Xenonstar Mag bulb, it will be very bright and with good runtime.

HTH
AlexGT

Look here!

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=157723

Thanks for your informations, I might try to mod my 2C with a ROP LOW with 3XCR123A batteries if I find this light bulb in Italy.

I think that will be very difficoult...but I'll try.

what do you mean with unprotected or protected cells?

Well, I have a 2C set-up that I use the ROP low in. I am using 2 unprotected 18650's, a borofloat lens, and the stock reflector. I sanded my bulb to smooth out the beam pattern, which worked wonderfully. I have the full switch resistance fix along with the tailspring fix as well, and measured 275 lumens out the front in my DIY lightbox(which has proved to be accurate within +/- 10%). If you want to step it up futher, you can get a metal reflector and run the ROP high. You will get 500-600 actual lumens on 2x18650's with that set-up...but you WILL need a metal reflector.

Once I did the resistance fixes(thanks Aepoc), I noticed some melting on the stock reflector with the low bulb after using the light for about 10 minutes straight.

Just FYI, the 2C with 3X123's or 2x18650's with the 5 or 6-cell Mag bulbs will put out just over 100 lumens out the front in comparison.

I looked for the ROP low in italy but without any resoult...
so I have bought an halogen philips pi-bin bulb (MASTERCaps MS GY6.35 IR 20 W 12 volts) here you are the website: http://www.prismaecat.lighting.philips.com/LightSite/Whirlwind.aspx?eca=LEPPLG&cpf=ITEPIT&stg=ACT&lan=IT+&ecu=LMP|PHL|EP&cnt_key=HCAPIR++|PHL&t=1&tree=0&scr_md=1111&leftnav=1_1_1_2_2_4&nav=Null&loc=Null&tt=BasicSpecs and I was thinking to use it in my 2c with 4xCR123a batteries with a replecmet spring..
but will this project fit?
and what about runtime and lumen output (the bulb produce 420 lumen)
can I use standard reflector and lens or I must change them?

thanks Filippo.

Since that is a bi-pin bulb you would need a PR to bi-pin adapter of some sort, and since it is over 10W you would have to replace the stock lens and stock reflector. If the envelope of that bulb is as large as I suspect, then you will find it difficult to locate a metal reflector with a large enough hole to accomodate that bulb, but not impossible.

If you take a look at SilverFox's CR123 testing results, you will see that even the best CR123 cells can only supply about 2.5 volts at currents exceeding 1 Amp, and the voltage will decrease as the cell is used. You would be underdriving the bulb at about 10V and 1.38 Amps for 13.8 Watts. That would give you a yellow beam with less than 200 torch lumens. I would calculate an exact number, but I was depending on CPF Wiki hotwire calculator to help. The usual approach to a hotwire is to overdrive the bulb a bit for a whiter beam. The problem is, there really aren't nice bulbs available for 4 CR123 cells other than the ones made for tactical lights.

If there were a nice solution that involved dropping 4 CR123 cells into a 2C maglight then you probably would have read about it already. You have already gotten some great suggestions from the members, but by all means experiment on your own and see what you can learn. There are many of us here that have tried to find a better hotwire, and so there is a lot you can learn by reading in the incandescent and homemade/modified sections. Ultimately you have to decide what you want out of this.

Some really enjoy modifying or making lights and learning how to make them better in some way. Some want the brightest light for a given size at any cost (2C would have to be Philips 5761 running on 2 AW C Li-ions), others want a good amount of light with minimal cost (5 or 6 cell Mag bulb on 3 CR123s). Or maybe you want guilt free rechargeable lumens so you swap 2 18500s (easiest) or 18650s (longer runtime) for the 3 CR123s. If you want more runtime, then you don't want a current hog like the 5761, you want something like a Carley h1499p, which would run great on 18500 or 18650s. So let us know what you want and we will do our best to help you find it. If you don't know what you want, describe the intended usage and you will get many suggestions.