Fenix L1D CE Tailstanding

Sorry if this has been asked already, but I've a fairly simple and silly question.

I just got my Fenix L1D CE, to go alongside (or replace, but I like them both) my L1T. However, the L1D CE has two tail standing problems. Firstly, the rubber cover on the switch actually bulges out just enough to make the bottom not flat – is that normal? Secondly, now that they've a split-ring groove in the tail, there doesn't seem to be any easy way to mount the lanyard without it also making the end not flat.

I'm sure I could apply thinking power and work out a solution – but it's easier to ask here and find out what other people have done already.

Unrelated to tail standing, but the third machined groove in the head is really deep – I'm not sure why – it almost looks like the head section is made in two parts that can screw apart?

Thanks!

Just got my L1Dce today, tail clicky rubber us flush and stands flat on the metal. Maybe try the replacement rubber click cover that came with the light... ? I have been thinking about drilling another small hole next to one of the lanyard holes so it will stand ok. Mine has two small holes now but they are far enough apart I dont like the looks of the lanyard ran through them.

Here's how I attached the lanyard on my L2DCE (provided the L1D is the same).. i fed the small loop of cord on the attachment end of the lanyard through one hole from the outside in towards the tailcap, then i came around through that groove between the holes to the outside and fed the loop through the second hole from the outside in towards the tailcap again, then i fed the lanyard through the little bit of loop sticking out from the hole (there should be just enough). The attachment cord should form a figure-eight. This way, the cord does not stick up higher than the metal edge of the tailcap because the cord crosses over in the groove between the holes and the cord stays clear of the switch. Hope this helps.

Jason

That happened with my L2T. Just disassemble/reassemble the tailcap a few times, and it should straighten itself out.

I think if you attach the lanyard, you can rest it in the tailcap's notch to let it tailstand.

Yes, that "third machined groove" isn't really a groove at all; the head comes apart there. It's loctited in place, but it's not very strong loctite. Unscrew with some force (use rubber bands for grip if necessary) and it should come apart. You can also focus the light like this.

A year ago I wouldnt have thought I would ever need to tailstand. But this winter my power grid has went down 5 times, longest was 6 days with no power. I used a Streamlight Twin Task 2D/10 LED light on its tail a bunch of hours. Tail stand will be real handy and a must have from now on.

That figure-of-eight through the groove isn't a bad idea – I've done that. Thanks.

It turns out the switch is bulging due to pressure. When I take the tail cap off, the switch is flat. When I put it back on, it bulged. The air trapped inside pushes it out when I reduce the size of the inside by screwing the tail cap (or head) back on. Looking on the bright side, I guess the o-rings are working.

How do you fit the big plastic lug through the little loop? I don't seem to have enough string to fit it through if I do a figure 8.

My L1DCE tailstanding works just fine, the tailcap recessed a bit lower by a few mililiters than the edge.

As for the lanyard attachment, there's an instruction how to do it properly at http://www.fenixlight.com/info/index.htm#2 but our friend redranger here are kind enuff to provide an extra 'out-of-the-box' solutions :rock:. The figure 8 was nice, guess that's what the groove between the holes are for.

Thanks for the link Zax. It looks like the L1D might not have the groove between the two holes as does the L2D in which case you'll probably have to attach the lanyard as described in the link.

Like I said, there was just enough loop left that I could fit the plastic lug through with some moderate force.

Edit: The light in the link is an L1P and the L1D does have the groove so the figure-eight thing should work.

Prick it with a pin