DX "HASTO" LED Headlamp with Seoul Upgrade

I get a bunch of questions about the Headlamp, that I modify to use a Seoul P4 U-Bin / W0 color, and sell (see my signature).

Well, here is a picture review. If you have questions, let me know. I intend to get some current readings later.

The headlamp features a 1W setting, 3W setting, and dual-LED red blinker.

Front:


Back, notice two magnets which hold the unit against a metal cabinet, etc.


Straight-ahead shot, with blinking red LED's


Switch is on one side, the black button.


The battery compartment is on the opposite side:


Unscrew to expose battery pack:


Battery Pack slides out:


1W setting, running on 3 AAA NiMH:


3W setting, running on 3 AAA NiMH:


REFERENCE PHOTO: Fenix P1D-CE (Low-12 lumens) running on 3.0V Lithium primary:


REFERENCE PHOTO: Fenix P1D-CE (Med-72 lumens) running on 3.0V Lithium primary:


REFERENCE PHOTO: Fenix P1D-CE (High-135 lumens) running on 3.0V Lithium primary:

The beamshots are for *un-modded* HASTO, correct?

- Vikas

No, the beamshots are for the modded version running NiMH batteries, what I would expect most people would be using. It would probably be brighter running Alkaline or Lithium e^2. It's probably 90-100 lumens on high with NiMH according to the photographs (your eyeballs may vary)

Wow, very impressive!


Have you modded a PT EOS with a soul or cree yet? If so how are the results? I have a SXOH modded EOS with reflector and would love mine to get the Cree/P4 upgrade!

The other headlamps I have modified are Dorcy and Brinkmann. No Apex yet.

Here's the front of the package, for more info about the stock application. The back of the package just shows how to change the batteries.

Where it says "Normal LED", substitute "Water-Clear red LED, flashing only"

EngrPaul said:

No, the beamshots are for the modded version running NiMH batteries, what I would expect most people would be using. It would probably be brighter running Alkaline or Lithium e^2. It's probably 90-100 lumens on high with NiMH according to the photographs (your eyeballs may vary)

Click to expand...

Looking at your reference medium (72 lumen) and high (135 lumen) photos, your estimate of around 90 to 100 is very reasonable.

How is the general construction quality of the headlamp, for example would the plastic last battery changes?

It looks like a hell of a deal as this is the *only* Cree headlamp available anywhere in the world

- Vikas

Vikas Sontakke said:

Looking at your reference medium (72 lumen) and high (135 lumen) photos, your estimate of around 90 to 100 is very reasonable.

How is the general construction quality of the headlamp, for example would the plastic last battery changes?

It looks like a hell of a deal as this is the *only* Cree headlamp available anywhere in the world

- Vikas

Click to expand...

He put a Seoul in the lamp, not a Cree.

I have the same headlight from DX and I am just waiting for the 3 U-bin Seouls I ordered to show up. I am looking forward to modifying my Hasto with the Seoul.

Vikas Sontakke said:

Looking at your reference medium (72 lumen) and high (135 lumen) photos, your estimate of around 90 to 100 is very reasonable.

How is the general construction quality of the headlamp, for example would the plastic last battery changes?

It looks like a hell of a deal as this is the *only* Cree headlamp available anywhere in the world

- Vikas

Click to expand...

It seems very sturdy to me for a plastic headlamp. I guess many of them are plastic for light weight. There are no weak points succeptable to breakage that I can tell. I've messed with about a dozen of these, none have been defective and the battery cartridges work without a problem.

any chance of making the red LED's NOT blink?

That looks gorgeous. I also happen to have the same light(unmodded).

I have a quick question. Upon the clicking, the light I have does not switch between 1W & 3W modes. The light output is at 1w for both modes. Any suggestions on how I should proceed on fixing this? Perhaps the traces on the circuit are poorly done?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

(and of course after ordering a handful of cree stars for a fixed lighting project just this morning, I promptly put in an order for a seoul thanks to this thread)

EngrPaul said:

It seems very sturdy to me for a plastic headlamp. I guess many of them are plastic for light weight. There are no weak points succeptable to breakage that I can tell. I've messed with about a dozen of these, none have been defective and the battery cartridges work without a problem.

Click to expand...

I was eyeing these up because they looked, from the pictures , to have an aluminum heatsink. Are you saying they are entirely plastic?

Yes, there is a metal heat sink. I have not pulled the headlamp completely apart to access the driver circuitry.

I have begun doing a relative brightness runtime using 1000 mAh Powerex NiMH cells. I will have 3W results soon, 1W results will probably be tomorrow.

I am logging measurements manually every 5 minutes using a solar cell, loaded with 490 ohm resistor, and DMM.

BugLightGeek said:

any chance of making the red LED's NOT blink?

Click to expand...

Yea thats what im intrested in & keep finding Headlamps with blinking red's. I have a Ray-O-Vac 3in1 but want somthing better but really need steady red

how much does this mug weigh?

Also, I agree... the red LEDs need to be able to be constantly on... someday headlamp manufacturers will understand the importance of red light...

...

I swapped out the Luxeon in my dorcy headlamp last night with a cree and the results were terrible. It looks like I need to order one of these and an SSC led on my next DX order. Thanks!