Burn time for LS White

Anyone has measured the burn time with different powerpack for the LS white? I'm sure some already did but it's impossible to read through all the threads to find out.
And does anyone know if Peter is taking order again for first LS?

Thanks

He is taking orders for seconds starting today but not firsts.

You can check out the LEDMuseum for a run time graph.

Run times (approx):
2 AA lithium about 5 hours (brightest)
2 AA Duracell Ultras 3 hours
2 AA Alkaline cheapies 4+ hours
123 lithium about 3 hours
1 AA is 1/2 brightness, runs 5 hours

Don`t forget my rounds of testing on the prototype white LS (not yet started on the production model, still getting new/old PCs sorted out).

Please ignore the results for the 2AA Duracell Alkaline, they turned out to be iffy batteries and died prematurely.

Does anyone use their LS with used 123's from their E2 or other tactical lights?

Mine read about 2.83±0.01, but they lasted less than 20 mins in the LS with 123 pack.

Now the used 123's from the LS reads from 2.34~2.70. How many volts should we consider the 123's to be used up?

It would be nice if there was a way of working out how much power there is left in the battery just by looking at the voltage. (and draw up a chart which has relative LS runtimes compared to cell voltage)

Anyway, that's just a thought. Any comments?

YC

I had the same thought. If we could take Chris or Telephony's graph and place voltage along with output, that would allow us to judge how much runtime at a certain brightness the battery has left.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Sean:
He is taking orders for seconds starting today but not firsts.

You can check out the LEDMuseum for a run time graph.

Run times (approx):
2 AA lithium about 5 hours (brightest)
2 AA Duracell Ultras 3 hours
2 AA Alkaline cheapies 4+ hours
123 lithium about 3 hours
1 AA is 1/2 brightness, runs 5 hours<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Sean and Chris,

Hey Chris, I suppose your graph's time unit is in munites. Since the light with 2AA lithium went to nil at around 660 units. But the light levels with 2AA lithium dropped significant about 300 units (approx 5hrs), i.e. consistent with Sean's data, right?

yep, it`s minutes.

Once upon a time I`m sure it had the units stated on that graph (the vertical axis should be taken only as relative values, they don`t easilly convert to known units although it is a linear scale) but when I updated it to add the Sanyo battery, I messed up the axisses and had to redo the text, must`ve forgotten to add the units.

My computers are in a mess at present, half my stuff is here and t`other half is on the new one, including that graph. I`ll fix it when I can.

Is it just my imagination or do only the AA lithiums trigger the sun/moon mode?

Why is it that with 123 batteries, at voltages below about 2.4 volts, the LS goes into moon mode but then at below about 1.6 volts, it dies? While using a single AA at 1.6 volts, it is very bright.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MY:
Why is it that with 123 batteries, at voltages below about 2.4 volts, the LS goes into moon mode but then at below about 1.6 volts, it dies? While using a single AA at 1.6 volts, it is very bright.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


If you are using a volt meter on your 123's to test the voltage then the reason is your 123's are so low (dead) at 1.6v that when connected to a load the voltage probably drops much further and connot run the LS. But when you use a 1.5-1.6v AA it can maintain that voltage under a load because it is "fresh".

We are talking about 1.5v AA Li battries are we not?

Yes, I am talking about regular alkalines.

When I meter the 123 and get 1.6 volts, it doesn't even light up the LS and then immediately I meter it and it is still 1.6 volts. It is hard to believe that the 123 can recover that quickly. I think there is something else going on here that I don't understand about batteries and resistance.

Help!

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MY:
Yes, I am talking about regular alkalines.

When I meter the 123 and get 1.6 volts, it doesn't even light up the LS and then immediately I meter it and it is still 1.6 volts. It is hard to believe that the 123 can recover that quickly. I think there is something else going on here that I don't understand about batteries and resistance.

Help!<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Think about it this way. When a 123 is fresh it is 3.2v. The one you are testing is 1.6v. There is no way a lithium battery that is run down to half its original voltage is going to handle a 1/3 amp load! Batteries under a load have a voltage drop, in your case it recovers because you have removed the load.

BTW: a fresh 1.6v AA can handle this load.

Thanks for the response.

I still wish someone would do a runtime test with the LS showing voltage, brightness and runtime.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Ron Schroeder:
Is it just my imagination or do only the AA lithiums trigger the sun/moon mode?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

In informal testing, I find no clear distinction between sun and moon mode for both the Arc LS and Arc AAA. Peter has stated before that the circuitry, at least for the Arc AAA, is only partially regulated due to a compromise to get the brightest output out of the LED. I find the lights tend to stay "relatively bright" for a period of time and then the dimming is more noticable but no sudden dramatic change in brightness in which you might believe in the advertised sun/moon mode capabilities. Still the level of light is much more steady then say a photon series which begins dimming immediately and dramatically. I most anxiously await the release of the Surefire LED series lights which promise a steady output for the bulk of the batteries life and then a dramatic shift to lesser light output to let you know it's time to replace the batteries. This arrangement sounds ideal to me, we'll see how well it's implemented in real life use.