Fenix P1 died - How to get fixed?

I have emailed the Fenix Store twice now and no response. How do I get my Fenix P1 in for warranty service? The driver is dead. With new batts, it will light but only very dim. Same battery in my P1D CE works fine.

Help!
-Chuck

He posted yesterday that they were behind on emails. Don't worry this will be taken care of.

Me too, looking to buy the pill/emitter only.

Anyone want to sell me one?

I have a question for you.

I bought a Fenix L2d CE that failed the exact same way after a couple days of use, I did get a replacement from Fenix but it also failed the same way after another two days.

Both times my failures happened immediatley after a battery replacement.

I'm just wondering if your failure also occured immediately after a battery change?

Mine occured after about 30 minutes of intermittant use with the first battery it ever had. Once second I turned it on and it was bright, turned it off, later that day turned it on and it was very very dim. I figured the battery had died, and I was seeing the tail of power and reducing light, so I replaced it with a new cell. Same thing. Took that new batter out and put it in my P1D CE, and it worked perfectly. I only use SureFire 123a batteries, nothing else.

Fenix got back to me. Sounds like they were a week beind on emails or something. I am shipping it in today. Thanks! It will be nice to have my P1 back. It is dang handy, and while I like the nifty modes and power of the P1D CE, sometimes I just want an on-off light without modes.

-Chuck

I was upgrading a P1 to Seoul last night and noticed a problem with it. It lit for a few seconds then went out. I thought the driver was dead. But on further investigation, I found there was an open on the emitter circuit board!

What Fenix did with the P1 was really stupid. They made a long pad and drilled a hole right in the middle of the pad for the wire to come through, slightly smaller than the width of the pad.

|===O===|

On one side of the hole they solder the wire that comes up through the hole. On the other side they solder the emitter. So effectively, there is a very thin strand of copper running between the pad halves, on one or both sides of the hole. Through heating and cooling of the emitter assembly, these thin pieces of copper can go open. I actually witnessed it happen. My solution was to unsolder the wire and attach it to the same side of the pad as the emitter is soldered to. Then the thin copper is bypassed.

Paul,

I am currently modding my new P1 with a Seoul. I would hate to encounter this problem after all of this work. I will have to take a good look at the board to see what you are talking about, and take some preventative measures.

Thanks for the heads up.

datiLED

datiLED said:

Paul,

I am currently modding my new P1 with a Seoul. I would hate to encounter this problem after all of this work. I will have to take a good look at the board to see what you are talking about, and take some preventative measures.

Thanks for the heads up.

datiLED

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Get some pictures, my friend

EngrPaul said:

Get some pictures, my friend

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If I can borrow the camera from work, I may do that. My personal camera (5MP Canon) does not do close-up work very well.