After using the T5 for a while I started to have occasional problems with the switch not firing. I find myself activating it like this most of the time...
... and it sometimes misfires because I find it difficult to not also push forward (left in the photo) while pushing down to engage the switch. The solution, of course, is to just push straight down each time you activate the switch. Ooops, sorry, I thought I was in the reviews forum for a moment.
If you have this problem and want to fix it, here's one possible solution...
I apologize if I'm not using the correct terminology but this is what I'll use to refer to the parts...
[url="http://www.myonlineimages.com/serveFile.aspx?fi=903325"]
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Between the switch and cap is, what could be most easily described as, a washer that, IMO, was designed to have more than enough clearance rather than just enough. When you press on the cap the nub extends past the washer and makes contact with the top of the switch. If you're pressing laterally as you press downward the nub can move too far off center and miss making solid contact with the switch. This causes the misfire. The problem is compounded by the fact that the switch has a relatively long travel and the top edge is rounded over.
[url="http://www.myonlineimages.com/serveFile.aspx?fi=903329"]
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Stock washer has too much clearance.
If the washer is designed to have JUST ENOUGH clearance for the nub we can make the switch sailor proof. The easiest fix I could think of was a simple bushing.
[url="http://www.myonlineimages.com/serveFile.aspx?fi=903328"]
[/url]
Washer w/ bushing has just enough clearance.
Find something that fit's as a bushing. I know there are a lot of variables but I think, in general, plastic/rubber has less friction than metal/rubber so I used plastic. This is what I had handy...
... cut off the end of the ring terminal sleeve and slide it into the washer top down. You'll notice it won't insert the whole way because of the lip on the top of the bushing. This is good b/c it gives us a little more height on the inside to surround the nub and that ensures it has to follow our guide. This is bad if you put it in upside down b/c it will extend the switch assembly and prevent the tail from seating properly onto the battery tube. So, if you have any excess protruding from the bottom of the washer, file it off and deburr. You don't want to just push any excess up through the top b/c it will make the bushing too tall which, in turn, will limit the travel of the nub.
It's a slightly loose fit so you'll need to secure the bushing to the washer sidewall. If you don't the bushing will work it's way free and up into the cap. Epoxy would be the best for a permanent bond but, IMO, it's not necessary. We just need a little stick and/or filler to make the bushing/sidewall fit a little tighter. I used a dab of superglue. I know it won't stick very well to the metal but it does build up the bushing sidewall and makes the fit tight enough that the bushing doesn't slide around by itself, you have to push it out manually. Don't use threadlock b/c it will probably deteriorate the plastic.
I also filed down the top of the switch to make it flat and a little rougher. Both will make for a better contact but it's probably not necessary because our bushing ensures the nub has 'good enough' contact. Be careful not to take off too much and/or file it crooked which is easy to do with such a small surface. You don't even take off 1/64" but, if you like warranties, you might want to skip this step.
And, I put a very small amount of petrol jelly on the side of the nub. Just enough to give it a shine and only on the side, not the bottom. If you use too much it will build up on the bottom and make our contact slippery. If you use way too much it will goop up onto the switch. Again, this step is not necessary but it makes for a slightly smoother acting switch when the nub rubs the bush (nice).
Now you can push on your switch any way you want and it will surely fire. Please let me know if you have any problems or suggestions.
... and it sometimes misfires because I find it difficult to not also push forward (left in the photo) while pushing down to engage the switch. The solution, of course, is to just push straight down each time you activate the switch. Ooops, sorry, I thought I was in the reviews forum for a moment.
If you have this problem and want to fix it, here's one possible solution...I apologize if I'm not using the correct terminology but this is what I'll use to refer to the parts...
[url="http://www.myonlineimages.com/serveFile.aspx?fi=903325"]
[/url] Between the switch and cap is, what could be most easily described as, a washer that, IMO, was designed to have more than enough clearance rather than just enough. When you press on the cap the nub extends past the washer and makes contact with the top of the switch. If you're pressing laterally as you press downward the nub can move too far off center and miss making solid contact with the switch. This causes the misfire. The problem is compounded by the fact that the switch has a relatively long travel and the top edge is rounded over.
[url="http://www.myonlineimages.com/serveFile.aspx?fi=903329"]
[/url] Stock washer has too much clearance.
If the washer is designed to have JUST ENOUGH clearance for the nub we can make the switch sailor proof. The easiest fix I could think of was a simple bushing.
[url="http://www.myonlineimages.com/serveFile.aspx?fi=903328"]
[/url]Washer w/ bushing has just enough clearance.
Find something that fit's as a bushing. I know there are a lot of variables but I think, in general, plastic/rubber has less friction than metal/rubber so I used plastic. This is what I had handy...
... cut off the end of the ring terminal sleeve and slide it into the washer top down. You'll notice it won't insert the whole way because of the lip on the top of the bushing. This is good b/c it gives us a little more height on the inside to surround the nub and that ensures it has to follow our guide. This is bad if you put it in upside down b/c it will extend the switch assembly and prevent the tail from seating properly onto the battery tube. So, if you have any excess protruding from the bottom of the washer, file it off and deburr. You don't want to just push any excess up through the top b/c it will make the bushing too tall which, in turn, will limit the travel of the nub.
It's a slightly loose fit so you'll need to secure the bushing to the washer sidewall. If you don't the bushing will work it's way free and up into the cap. Epoxy would be the best for a permanent bond but, IMO, it's not necessary. We just need a little stick and/or filler to make the bushing/sidewall fit a little tighter. I used a dab of superglue. I know it won't stick very well to the metal but it does build up the bushing sidewall and makes the fit tight enough that the bushing doesn't slide around by itself, you have to push it out manually. Don't use threadlock b/c it will probably deteriorate the plastic.
I also filed down the top of the switch to make it flat and a little rougher. Both will make for a better contact but it's probably not necessary because our bushing ensures the nub has 'good enough' contact. Be careful not to take off too much and/or file it crooked which is easy to do with such a small surface. You don't even take off 1/64" but, if you like warranties, you might want to skip this step.
And, I put a very small amount of petrol jelly on the side of the nub. Just enough to give it a shine and only on the side, not the bottom. If you use too much it will build up on the bottom and make our contact slippery. If you use way too much it will goop up onto the switch. Again, this step is not necessary but it makes for a slightly smoother acting switch when the nub rubs the bush (nice).
Now you can push on your switch any way you want and it will surely fire. Please let me know if you have any problems or suggestions.
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