cyclops from xenon to led

I picked this light up from Gander Mountain. I really like the size, clip and tailswitch. It was pretty bright, although not as bright as my maxfire, so I decided to convert it to led. Also, I am really paranoid about using two primaries in series, after reading about all the mishaps around here.
I am using the lux 3 from the magled, I will upgrade to ssc soon. After the soeul swap It will be my new favorite light for sure.




I used a 2 cell magled module. I just cut the threads off the back of the reflector and then enlarged the reflector hole untill the lux 3 could just squeeze in there. I put thermal compound on the reflector and superglued the module to it. The heatsinking is great, no drop in output like in a stock mag.


Business end..




For now I am using one cr123 and a spacer. I will pick up some 17670's soon.





This is a light for the white wall hunters. Just a perfect large hotspot that blends into the spill, although there is a hole in the hotspot when under 1 foot from the wall(who cares:shrug: ). Underexposed a bit...




All in all I am very pleased with this light. It will be seeing bike light duty once I swap in the soeul. The beam pattern is perfect for close/medium flood light. I will use my creed ritsoft running dd from an 1850 as a helmet mounted spot light.
The cyclops light draws 1.1 amps from a fresh cell.

Very cool!!
I like it.
Now I know what to do with mine

Thanks, I can't wait to get the seoull. I am just nervous that I will get a cree instead of a seoul if I order from DX.

I was looking at this light thinking that it would be awsome to throw an 1850 in there. Of course it is too wide so boring will be necessary. The battery will have to be loaded through the bezel end as the tailcap threads are too small.
I don't have a lathe or mill, but I do have a nice drill press. Would it be possible to bore out the light using a standard drill bit? I think the hardest part will be getting the light perfectly aligned with the bit. I would use as many steps as possible so it goes smooth and plenty of lube. I might give it a shot. Any comments?

Sweet! I was a fan of the Cyclops as a host as soon as they arrived at my Sam's Club. There were a couple threads here on CPF as soon as they came out. My store showed that they had somehting like 400 pairs of them, but they had just been received that same day. I literally walked around for about an hour with one of the guys from receiving to find them as they had not yet been put on display.

There was some talk that possibly the Surefire P60 type lamp would work, but you'd have to turn the bezel diameter down a bit. Then someone figured out that the UK eLED module (and the incand module for that matter) fit perfectly.

I sold several of them off but the one I still have has the original eLED module. Decently bright, not much throw but mine is almost perfectly white.

I think for such a cheap host, it is of very respectable quality and quite a bit smaller than many 2x123 lights. I use a 17670 in mine. I thought about trying to bore it out, but those walls sure do look pretty thin. The protected 17670 slips in and out more easily in the Cyclops than in my Vital Gear light so maybe an unprotected 18650 wouldn't take too much boring.

Good luck.

Thanks cratz. I agree it is a very well made light and it is nice and small. If you look at the picture of the light, the thinnest part is the second groove in from the right. I will not even have to bore that part out to fit the 18650, as it will load from the front. I am going to bore it out with a hand drill so I can find the center easier than using a drill press. I will report back with the results.

Well, I was able to bore out the light, but not before I scratched it up and bent the hell out of the pocket clip. I can squeeze an ultrafire protected 18650 in there but I am afraid it will short out through the insulation. An unprotected cell will fit great, I just have to order some from DX.

There is a piece that screws into the front of the body, and then the head screws onto that piece. Well, the hole had to be bigger than the threads in the body so I had to glue the piece onto the body. If it doesn't hold up(probably wont) I will just do a few tack welds to keep it in place.

I will post up some pictures when I get a chance, and beamshots to follow when I get the new cells. In the meantime, I might be able to make the protected cell fit with a little more sanding.