Shorted out my P1D-CE!

OK, I did a real dumb thing. I was experimenting with different clicky tubes when I accidently shorted out my P1D-CE!

I don't know if the emitter blew or the board fried. Either way, it doesn't work anymore! I have tried everything I can think of, but have not had any success getting the head apart. Any suggestions? If I blew the board, can it be fixed or does it have to be replaced, and if so, where can you get another board? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'm not real savvy with this type of repair, but if it's simple enough, I might be able to handle it. If not, is anyone out there for hire?

Bill

What did you do to bust it? did you connect the battery backwards? I don't see how the board could be damaged, try connecting a battery directly.

To open it, follow this thread

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=156336&highlight=p1d

HTH
AlexGT

If you can't fix it, I think it's time to get a P2D or P3D.

AlexGT said:

What did you do to bust it? did you connect the battery backwards?

Click to expand...

No, but the result was the same.

AlexGT said:

To open it, follow this thread

Click to expand...

I tried following those directions, but it wouldn't budge. I tried heating the threads with a hair dryer for two minutes to soften the threadlock, but it still wouldn't budge.

Bill

Have you tried freezing it?

I have an idea, since it's already busted, why dont you remove the board as shown in the pics, do not remove or tear any of the wires, open just enough to connect a 123 directly to the wires going to the led, if the led lights, then the board is busted, if it donesn't the led is the one at fault (And maybe the regulator too)

HTH
AlexGT

No, I haven't tried freezing it yet. I'm getting afraid of damaging the threads too much. They've taken a little abuse already, but still function fine. The board is loose from the head, but I see no way of detaching the wires until I can open the head and get at the emitter.

BillMPL said:

I tried following those directions, but it wouldn't budge. I tried heating the threads with a hair dryer for two minutes to soften the threadlock, but it still wouldn't budge.

Bill

Click to expand...

Do you have one of those heaters for warming a cup of coffee or tea? I warm my lights on one of these, and then use a pair of strap wrenches to open the heads. It works every time.

I have opened the stubborn Fenix lights this way without any problems. I have done a P1 and an LOP SE. I just ordered some MDXL lights to mod, too. They will get the same treatment if they are potted.

YMMV.

datiLED

BillMPL - you say you 'shorted it out' but if you didn't connect a battery backwards how did you short it out? What exactly did you do just before it quit working? Have you tried other batteries? And if so have you tried an RCR123 rechargeable which bypasses parts of the circuit to run it in direct drive? That may tell you something.

Did you overdrive the light by adding to many cells,

Playing around with a different tube with a clicky, I wanted to see how the levels would work. In the process, the tube shifted so the battery head touched the negative ring and the tube edge touched the positive center of the P1D-CE head. Then nothing.

Tried different batteries, including 3.7v rcr's, and still nothing.

Sounds like a reverse polarity scenario....My bet is the board has fried.


Tim.

If the board is fried, can it be fixed, or can a replacement be purchased? Does Fenix sell just the boards, or is there a 3rd party substitute that would work?

I'd contact 4sevens at the Fenix-store.com or here and see what he can do for you. Depending on your modding skills you may also be able to contact goldserve for a FluPic board if nothing else works out. Then try getting that and a Seoul P4 in there and you'll have an even better UI as well as a light with less 'ringiness'. Look around here as I believe someone has modded this light with a Seoul P4.