Ultrafire C2 HAIII at Kaidomain

Just wanted to point out that Kai has now listed an HA-III version of the Ultrafire C2, which of the many DX/Kai lights I've tried out is by far the best -- excellent value, good build quality, and decent regulation on 2xCR123s (with option of extended runtime on 18650). The only drawback I saw was that the Type-II black coating was prone to showing scracthces/marks, with HA-III though this becomes an excellent all-around light.

Ultrafire C2 HA-III -- $26.10

Also, on mine, I replaced the one-level reverse clicky (which is better than most in terms of feel) with a tactical style McClicky
switch. All that's needed to do so is a properly sized washer to complete the contact, and some insulating tape, then the new switch can be screwed right into the tailcap -- which also gives the C2 the ability to tailstand when turned on (not possible w/ stock switch).

Just a heads up for those who are interested.

WTF!!! I just bought 3 more of the regular c2's (I already had 2) and havent even recived them yet and now I have no money. I mean its cool that they came out with this version but this always happens to me. same thing with the new p1 clone that came out today.

Arrgghhh....same here! Just received mine TODAY! And now a hard-anodized version for only 4 bucks more.

Love the light so far! For $22 shipped, you can't beat it. Very useful beam too...bright spill, plus a tight spot for throw.

We'll see if it's really HA3 or just Type 2 in natural finish when someone actually recieves it so dont feel too bad yet guys

My HA3 Fenix light is as scratchable as HA2 cheapie lights. Like x2x3x2 said, maybe these new natural C2 might turn out to be HA2 as well. :laughing:

lightbug said:

My HA3 Fenix light is as scratchable as HA2 cheapie lights. Like x2x3x2 said, maybe these new natural C2 might turn out to be HA2 as well. :laughing:

Click to expand...

This is a possiblity, though even if the coating isn't any more durable (I certainly hope it is though -- that would be awesome), the fact that it's a natural finish will at least make the sratches much harder to see than if they were made against a matte black finish -- silvery scratches and streaks really stand out against black, but would tend to "blend in" with a natural coating.

Hi.

I decided to wait a while until the c2 (incl ha3) has better battery life (regulation), and possibly fix the (tight fit & +/- pole contact) Protected cell (18650) problems.

I agree about the tail clicky , and i added a simple (tight fitting) plastic ring around the switch to allow it to stand on end.

Is it the ID of the barrel thats the problem with protected 18650's or the length ? I am thinking of ordering this light, if its the ID I can fix that. I kind of like the looks of this light and the price is right. Was about to order the LumaHunter M1, but if this could "get me by" for a little while it would settle better with the wife....hehe.

BGater said:

Is it the ID of the barrel thats the problem with protected 18650's or the length ? I am thinking of ordering this light, if its the ID I can fix that. I kind of like the looks of this light and the price is right. Was about to order the LumaHunter M1, but if this could "get me by" for a little while it would settle better with the wife....hehe.

Click to expand...

The problem is with the barels I.D (internal diameter/width). Like trying to fit a AA into a AAA. Well not that tight, however you get the idea.

You have to really shake or lightly tap the 18650 out of the c2. Please note that this is for protected 18650's.

Secondly the protected 18650's have slightly concave +/- poles (terminals) and since the UFC2 has no spring or solder blob (+ pole/terminal) aka flat. It often won't come in contact with the bettery terminal. Kaidomain sells mini magnets to fit atop the battery terminals.

However i don't care for the idea of a magnet. Paticularly on the led power circuits. Most simply add a dob of solder. However i found some nice tapered battery terminal springs with plastic seats that fit snugly into the top section of the c2 terminal (to keep from contacting the sides of the fl body). If you keep the spring short i've not seen any problems as yet.

I prefer the 18650 over the cr123's for batery life.

I prefer protected cells as li-ions are touchy when recharging.

So far the 18650 has prooven safer then my RC cr-123.

Laslty, and i'm not certian about this. There seems to be 2 versions of the UF C2 and not including the HA3.

One version claims both cr-123 and 18650 , the other claims only 18650.

So far mine suports both.

Enjoy.

I would think a few minutes with a brake cylinder hone chucked in a drill would open the barrel a tiny bit to let a protected batt slide in better ? Just like doing an engine cylinder.

Northernflame said:

Hi.

I decided to wait a while until the c2 (incl ha3) has better battery life (regulation), and possibly fix the (tight fit & +/- pole contact) Protected cell (18650) problems.

I agree about the tail clicky , and i added a simple (tight fitting) plastic ring around the switch to allow it to stand on end.

Click to expand...

Yeah, the circuit isn't as efficient on the C2 as on some of my other lights -- although it is regulated -- it will draw constant power (more and more current) as the cells wear down. Considering that I use the "throwy" C2 in my case more for shorter bursts anyway, I prefer the higher brightness and better regulation of RCR123. For longer runtime, I have a Lumapower M1 with 18650, which is excellent for runtime, and draws less power to put out the same light output (side by side with the C2).

The problem is with the barels I.D (internal diameter/width). Like trying to fit a AA into a AAA. Well not that tight, however you get the idea.

You have to really shake or lightly tap the 18650 out of the c2. Please note that this is for protected 18650's.

Click to expand...

It is possible to unscew the battery tube from the head (rather than unscrewing the tailcap) -- it's easier to get the protected battereis in and out from that end.