Huntlight FT-02 Luxeon LED swap...Questions

well guys I was wondering if this mod is possible.

Take out the Luxeon III LED of a Huntlight FT-02 and place a Seoul or a Cree.

Here is the module.



Current is 750 mA meaured in the taicap, and voltage at the LED ends is 3.07-3.15 Volts. (due to bad contact at measurement)

The question which of the Two (Cree or Seoul) will fit regarding height?

Anyone with an experience in this kind of swap?

I've done this swap with a Seoul USVO from Photonfanatic, and it's nearly a perfect fit. I made a .030" copper disk from a sanded-down penny (or you can buy them from the Sandwich Shoppe) to raise the emitter to get the proper focus.
Make sure to isolate the emitter's base from the heatsink - when you epoxy in the copper disk, try not to squeeze it in too hard, and keep it centered in the well. Measure the continuity from it to the heatsink after the epoxy cures - it should be open. If it conducts, make sure to leave the epoxy layer under the emitter a little thicker. Otherwise, you're good to go.

Also, I cut a disk of adhesive vinyl to fit the underside of the reflector. This prevents the Seoul from shorting out if the reflector happens to hit the leads, which it likely will when you reassemble the module. At worst, it's insurance for the driver circuit.

On a 123 primary cell, this thing blazes. There's a bit of a yellow center to the beam, but that's more the tint and the Seoul itself - it's just what they do.
I've used this on my commuter bike, and it's fine by itself up to 20 mph on the road.
Go for it, it's a simple and very worthwhile mod.

Jon

I'll second the choice for a Seoul upgrade. I also did mine with a Seoul USVO from PhotonFanatic, and the 0.030" copper disk from the Sandwich Shoppe (two for $0.50).

If I were to do it again, I would use the USWOH from PhotonFanatic. I prefer the tint of the WO, and there is little or no tint variation in the beam when compared to the VO.

Either way, you can't beat the increase in output for such a simple mod.

datiLED

well guys I am kinda ooozy, so I will take the libertu of contacting you again a latter moment.

But for now...I appreciate your copper disk tip, but I wonder....

I should be using Arctic Alumina Adhesive or Arctic Alumina?
and putting between the heatsink and copper disc AND between disc and LED....

thats is all for now, sorry but it is too late and too many beers here and now, kostas

jmw19 said:

Also, I cut a disk of adhesive vinyl to fit the underside of the reflector. This prevents the Seoul from shorting out if the reflector happens to hit the leads, which it likely will when you reassemble the module. At worst, it's insurance for the driver circuit.

Click to expand...

But why should that be an issue? When checked with my multimeter all electric contacts (both the red/black wires and the LED contacts) are in line....

Well, shorting the LED could remove the load from the driver and destroy it, short the cell and start a thermal event, or even cause the LED to go out.

When I was modding my Huntlight FT-A2 with a Seoul, I noticed similar behavior when reassembling. Fully tightened, no light. Unscrew the head a touch, light.
It turns out the metal reflector was contacting the leads of the LED, and shorting them out when the assembly was fully tightened down. I used the same vinyl donut to insulate the leads, and bingo - fully tightened for proper focus, and plenty of light.

Plenty of materials will work there, even paper, but the vinyl is fairly thin, tough, and adhesive.

Jon