Did I fry my Q2-WH Cree?

So today I got my Cree XR-E Q2-WH from Cutter Electronics which I swapped into my Ultrafire C2. Amazing tint, somewhere in between my friend's SSC P4 SVO and another friends UV1J Luxeon. A very nice amount of yellow, but not too much. So I was running the C2 with my Ultrafire 18650, which is how I normally run it, but I wanted to see how bright it was with 2xRCR123s. Bad idea. Click, lots of brightness for a split second, and then nothing. No funky smells, no visible burning of the LED, nada. Checking the LED with a diode/continuity tester just gave me a beep indicating continuity, with no light coming out of the LED. My only hope is that the converter board is fried, somehow producing a short through the board rather than through the diode. Is this possible? I have never burned out an LED before, so I don't know what to expect. I don't see why it would have, as it worked fine with the old Cree and 2xRCR123s, but with the new one something has definitely gone awry. Any ideas on diagnostics I can perform with my multimeter to find out what is wrong here? I hope I didn't fry my emitter, it was beautiful when it was working. :mecry:

[edit] Changed title of thread [/edit]

Usually a single li ion will light up a working XR-E.

Yep, its dead. What a bummer. I still don't understand why 2xRCR123 worked with the old emitter, yet fried the new one. Perhaps the new Q2 emitter had a much lower Vf?

I think it was made to run on one batt,maybe ie 3.7 volts. not two making 7.4 volts to much power,just a thought.

Were those batteries fresh off the charger? If the Vf IS really lower, it's possible that 8.4 volts DID kill it. I remember reading that you can use that light ONLY if you let the batteries sit for awhile after coming off the charger.

AndyTiedye said:

Usually a single li ion will light up a working XR-E.

Click to expand...

A single li-ion fresh off charger (4.2V) will kill a working XR-E if connected directly. Ask me how I know...

BTW, my blown LED showed high resistance in either direction. If you're getting a short, it might really mean that a circuit is shorted, not the led... Can you disconnect one of the wires going to the LED to give it a proper continuity test?

On a related note, the 2 Q2-WH emitters I just got from Cutter both have the most disgusting, puke green tint I've ever seen in any LED.

That sucks Dale I hate cutter electronics....

I must have hit the Cree lottery then, because these emitters were perhaps some of the best tinted ones I have ever come across... a nice warm tint without being too yellow in comparison to other lights. The only other thing I have seen like it is Strauss' UV1J in his PD, which has that really warm yellowness to it. Anyways, I am gonna try and take the pill apart and see if I can make anything happen with this newly deceased flashlight.