Does anybody know of a good way to get rid of a bad auto waxing job? I washed my car last weekend (black metallic Volkswagen) and used armour-all wax which had to be applied when the car was wet and then dried normally. I did this, but the end effect is that my entire car now looks like a badly defogged mirror with loads of spots where the sun reflects differently. I tried washing it twice again, but the effect does not disappear. Is there any way to remove the wax effect? and which products are good to create an even shine? I've heard about Zymol, but that's about $200 in products and i have no idea if they are worth the money.
auto wax stripes
- Thread starter Kristofg
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unclearty
Enlightened
You can use original Dawn dish soap...the blue liquid and warm water. Then wash the car with real car soap...Gold Class..the amber stuff works very well. Dry the car and apply a good wax. If your car is dark, you could get NXT paste available pretty much anywhere. The trick is..when applying wax...thin is in. The thinner a coat you can put on, the better. There are alot of better products out there...I belong to a detailing forum..but they are harder to find..and more expensive.
luxlunatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yes, please tell what forum.
I agree with using dish soap, it will take the wax off, may take a few tries.
I use the regular Zymol wax ($15 bottle) and it is great stuff. They make more expensive products which I am sure are great giving their entry-level wax is excellent but I have not tried those.
I agree with using dish soap, it will take the wax off, may take a few tries.
I use the regular Zymol wax ($15 bottle) and it is great stuff. They make more expensive products which I am sure are great giving their entry-level wax is excellent but I have not tried those.
Manzerick
Flashlight Enthusiast
+1
ALso, a good clay bar treatment never hurts!!! After, try a seal and glaze and then top it with a good sealer (like NXT, Mothers Top coat or Zaino) and you're in business.
Products like Zaino bro's and Mothers Top Coat can be layered for AWESOME deep gloss
ALso, a good clay bar treatment never hurts!!! After, try a seal and glaze and then top it with a good sealer (like NXT, Mothers Top coat or Zaino) and you're in business.
Products like Zaino bro's and Mothers Top Coat can be layered for AWESOME deep gloss
unclearty said:
luxlunatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Clay bar is awesome! Removes deposits, overspray, etc. in a jif and works not only on paint, I use it on head and taillight lenses and on glass, makes wipers glide so smooth over your windshield and provide an almost new clearness to the glass.
unclearty
Enlightened
Sorry...been busy today. I'm a member of Detail city and Autopia...google them.
The Zymol wax mentioned here , is not really Zymol..it's made by Tur&*ewax. It's an OK product, but for $15 you can do much better. I would have suggested using a clay bar, but in this circumstance, I think you'd be better off using the Dawn trick..then regular wash, then a simple good wax.
The issue is...if you've never clayed before, there is a possibilty of making things worse. Claying takes a little finesse and since you already have a problem, I thought it best to fix this issue first. Once you have it corrected, then join either or both of the forums I mentioned, however...leave your wallet at home. If you think you can spend money on flashlights..........wait till you see what car detailing can do !
The Zymol wax mentioned here , is not really Zymol..it's made by Tur&*ewax. It's an OK product, but for $15 you can do much better. I would have suggested using a clay bar, but in this circumstance, I think you'd be better off using the Dawn trick..then regular wash, then a simple good wax.
The issue is...if you've never clayed before, there is a possibilty of making things worse. Claying takes a little finesse and since you already have a problem, I thought it best to fix this issue first. Once you have it corrected, then join either or both of the forums I mentioned, however...leave your wallet at home. If you think you can spend money on flashlights..........wait till you see what car detailing can do !
unclearty said:
I can get that past my wife as "cleaning products" though. I've run out of excuses concerning the need for better flashlights.
Do the wax products help in repelling dust or would it small particles remain stuck? (incredible amounts of tree pollen turn my black car yellow in about three days during the past weeks) I tried rinsing it off with loads of water, but nothing helps, short of three times washing it with a sponge and copious amounts of water.
luxlunatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
unclearty said:
Thanks unclearty, I did not know that. I knew this was their least expensive product and I am happy with the results compared with others that I have tried over the years, but now you have me thinking of trying something different and step it up(considering how much I will throw down for a flashlight!).
Have you sampled any of Zymol's "real" products?
And your not kidding about your wallet, detailing products can be money sponge as well!
Dawg
Enlightened
Go to Autogeek.com and stock up on some wolfgang products. 
jbosman1013
Enlightened
dont know if you fixed your problem yet but here is a few tips never wax your car in direct sun light,do one pannel at a time,and use a micro fiber cloth to remove the wax and any spots and never rub hard with one finger. any more questions just ask I've been detailing for over 10 years
Bob_G
Enlightened
unclearty,
Thanks for the Autopia tip. Since reading this thread, I've been researching there extensively, bought at least $500 worth of stuff (PC and all that goes with it) and have managed to correct my car beyond what I had hoped.
It's a 7 year old black Honda that I basically gave up on several years ago because I couldn't keep up with the black paint (notoriously soft as well) and just ran it through the gas station wash whenever. So no wax or polish in years. I have always done the basic twice a year cleaner/wax thing, and casually hand washed my cars, but never looked into serious detailing before. To top it off, a local "detailer" said he could make it better, and what he did was use a rotary/wool pad/heavy compound, then topped it with what I found out later was a filler wax. I was so angry at the results I didn't know what to do. Then I saw this thread
I spent a week on the thing using all PB product - SSR2.5 (4" LC orange,) SSR1 (6.5" LC white,) Pro Polish (LC black,) and then topped with Collinite IM 845 (LC red.) There's some scratches still, and of course now I notice how bad the trim looks, but the paint is pretty decent. So thanks again for the reference. Here's a few pics after the first coat of IM 845 (since put on a second coat and cleaned up the cracks a little better.) Sorry, no before pics.
Thanks for the Autopia tip. Since reading this thread, I've been researching there extensively, bought at least $500 worth of stuff (PC and all that goes with it) and have managed to correct my car beyond what I had hoped.
It's a 7 year old black Honda that I basically gave up on several years ago because I couldn't keep up with the black paint (notoriously soft as well) and just ran it through the gas station wash whenever. So no wax or polish in years. I have always done the basic twice a year cleaner/wax thing, and casually hand washed my cars, but never looked into serious detailing before. To top it off, a local "detailer" said he could make it better, and what he did was use a rotary/wool pad/heavy compound, then topped it with what I found out later was a filler wax. I was so angry at the results I didn't know what to do. Then I saw this thread
I spent a week on the thing using all PB product - SSR2.5 (4" LC orange,) SSR1 (6.5" LC white,) Pro Polish (LC black,) and then topped with Collinite IM 845 (LC red.) There's some scratches still, and of course now I notice how bad the trim looks, but the paint is pretty decent. So thanks again for the reference. Here's a few pics after the first coat of IM 845 (since put on a second coat and cleaned up the cracks a little better.) Sorry, no before pics.
