L4 two stage

brightspot

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has anyone used an Aleph two stage tailcap on a surefire L4 from the sandwich shop. Just want to make sure before I order it 55.00
 

brightspot

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that was going to be my next question. How bright is low with the 22ohm resistor?
 

louie

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:lolsign:
It's hard to describe brightness versus resistance in the 2 stage. I have 22 ohm and 60 ohm available, and you can change the resistors yourself if you know where to buy the surface mount resistors and solder.

I'd say 22 ohm is a decent low that's not too low. 60 is lower, but not that much. Kinda depends how low you want. Some people buy a spare board with a different resistance and just try some values.
 

Art Vandelay

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I have the 22ohm, the 30ohm, and the 60ohm. The 22ohm is the best for me. With higher resistance I find that I have to use full power much more, especially outside.
 

cy

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works much better if you get internal switch only, then fit into Z52 LOTC cap. that way it's all surefire and matches.
 

Katdaddy

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My apologies, newb question here. I have an L4 on the way and I am pretty sure I want to have the 2 stage option. What exactly do I need to order and is it something that I just screw on when I get it or is "some assembly required"?

Thanks.
 

gswitter

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I find the L4 more comfortable to use and carry with the flared end of a McTC than the Z52. The extra bulk might be a little uncomfortable in tight pockets for some though.

I EDC an L4 with a 22 ohm, 2-stage switch in a McTC, and love it.
 

brightspot

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cy said:
works much better if you get internal switch only, then fit into Z52 LOTC cap. that way it's all surefire and matches.
I'm not much of a modder. I was looking for something to screw off screw on. I did see the parts there in the sandwich shop. Does anyone put these together then sell them as a complete product? keeping it all Surefire would be good
 

The_LED_Museum

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Katdaddy said:
My apologies, newb question here. I have an L4 on the way and I am pretty sure I want to have the 2 stage option. What exactly do I need to order and is it something that I just screw on when I get it or is "some assembly required"?

Thanks.
The McE2S switch simply screws onto the tailcap of your L4 in place of the tailcap already on there; no assembly of any type is required.
http://ledmuseum.thefire.us/second/mce2s.htm
 

jlomein

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Someone posted that the two stage switch works great in a Surefire Z52 tailcap.

However, the standard tailcap the E series comes with now is the Z57. Does this two stage switch fit into a Z57?
 

louie

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The_LED_Museum said:
The McE2S switch simply screws onto the tailcap of your L4 in place of the tailcap already on there; no assembly of any type is required.
http://ledmuseum.thefire.us/second/mce2s.htm
Perhaps to clarify, the McE2s complete tailcap was once available but no longer seems to be. Other options now, besides asking on B/S/T, is to buy the internal guts of the McE2s and install that into a compatible tailcap of your choice. My understanding is that the current L4 tailcap, the Z57 clickie, isn't perfectly compatible but can be made to work. The Aleph tailcaps and original Surefire Z52 "lock out tail cap LOTC" accept the 2-stage McE2s guts. Some assembly required.

Further, the guts are available in 2 styles, regular and flat. The flat version is intended for use in the Aleph flat tailcap with a special low profile almost flat rubber dome button. Regular switches use a standard big button. All of these parts vary in availability at the Sandwich Shoppe . Sometime other vendors like Lighthound carry compatible parts like tailcaps.

Right now at the Shoppe, it looks like the regular switch guts are available, either assembled (but not in a tailcap yet) or kit, and only flat tailcaps and McTC are available. Then you still need a rubber boot (button), unless you are putting the guts in an existing Z52 tailcap.

I think the McGizmo section of these forums has archived posts that describe the Aleph line and these parts.
 

FlashSpyJ

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I bought a McE2s kit and put it in a Z57 tailcap, it works, but I think the button is activated too easily, and to lock it out you almost have to screw the tailcap off. I have to screw it so far that I can clearly see the o-ring! I dont like that. But the tailcap works though. Have the 22 ohm resistor, and find that option to be very nice! Its almost the same as the white led on the A2.
 

gswitter

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louie said:
Right now at the Shoppe, it looks like the regular switch guts are available, either assembled (but not in a tailcap yet) or kit, and only flat tailcaps and McTC are available. Then you still need a rubber boot (button), unless you are putting the guts in an existing Z52 tailcap.
Two-stage switch and rubber boot pre-installed in a tailcap (McTC) is also an option.
 
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