What is the serial # of your LS and how does that coorelate with brightness/runtime?

These lights were informally tested with fresh AA lithiums and fresh SF 123's. Except for #603, which after six hours was at least as bright as a fresh (bright) Reactor, I used relative rather than calculated runtimes.

#1696: I call it the "Supernova": It's a 500 (brown surrounds gold button), and becomes too hot to hold after approx twenty minutes. Otherwise this feels like the ultimate very small Luxeon light. It is noticeably brighter than the KL1, beam diameter is 2-3x greater, a beautiful white with subtle violet tinge. It's the closest rival to my beloved Trek 1400 that I've ever seen in a really small light. Unfortunately, the heat and short burntime make it impractical for EDC unless it is used for short intervals.

#1815: 400 ma?Green button surround, Fairly bright, smaller diameter beam than above, more pronounced blue tint, stayed quite cool but had relatively short runtime.

#1956: Similar to above with slightly wider diameter and paler blue tint. Never got truly hot but was 2nd warmest after "Supernova." Approximately same burntime as #1815.

#603 : "Son of Supernova" Second only to "Supernova" in brightness, beautiful wide diameter white beam, subtle blue tint (as opposed to "Supernova's violet tint), got only moderately warm but had longest runtime of all the lights. If I can't have a long- running "Supernova" than this light is an excellent compromise. QUESTION: How is it possible that this light ran cooler and longer than the other three,(excluding SuperN) yet put out more light? It seems to violate "natural law"..

The only answer I can come up with is that somehow, through some kind of fluke, number 603 is simply more efficient than the others. BTW, #603 is the only one with no protruding gold button. Instead the entire surface was flat, with a flat gold surround. What version was #603? I would love to get another similar one. Is it possible to request something like "the low 600's" or is it always chance and "the luck of the draw"? Since I already have four SLS's I don't feel comfortable buying more unless I have at least some idea of what I'm getting.

NOTE!! I just tested all four of my LS heads with a SF123 that was down to 1.48v. Three of the heads achieved little more than a glow and were very easy to stare directly into from only inches away. But #603 was another story entirely. With that same defunct battery it projected a fairly dim but very noticeable spot on my 10' ceiling almost directly above two 100W desk lamps. This might make sense if it was highly or even fully regulated, but since it had such a long runtime I would doubt it. Could this really be a highly efficient LS? What physical properties would account for this, and why couldn't this be duplicated on a wide scale?

Brightnorm

Re: What is the serial # of your LS and how does that coorelate with brightness/runtime?

I have first run #512. As it is my only LS, I don't have anything to compare it to. It is brighter than my Inova X5T. It has the flat gold circle. It also is a Greenie :>(. I have a Inretech shipping to me and I asked to "Pick me out a White/Blue, no Green".

Re: What is the serial # of your LS and how does that coorelate with brightness/runtime?

I have a SLS version 1, s/n 466. It's not as bright as a Ill Pill or a Madmax when loaded ithe the same batteries. It's brighter than the Reactor (early model). The runtime plots for my lights and relative brightness data can be found at:

http://thelightsite.cruxial.com/reviews/runtimes_archive/frameset.html

Re: What is the serial # of your LS and how does that coorelate with brightness/runtime?

I used to have a SLS First Run #100, it had a violet tint to it and not as bright as LI or BB.

-YC

Re: What is the serial # of your LS and how does that coorelate with brightness/runtime?

Originally posted by Roy:
I have a SLS version 1, s/n 466. It's not as bright as a Ill Pill or a Madmax when loaded ithe the same batteries. It's brighter than the Reactor (early model). The runtime plots for my lights and relative brightness data can be found at:

http://thelightsite.cruxial.com/reviews/runtimes_archive/frameset.html

Click to expand...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Roy, your tests are extremely valuable. Is there any way for you to superimpose multicolor plots? That would be very helpful for instant comparisons.

Brightnorm

Re: What is the serial # of your LS and how does that coorelate with brightness/runtime?

The plotting program that came with the multimeter does not (to my knowledge) allow for multiple plots on a single axis. I could probably find a graphing program that would do that and imput the data manually. The program creates a raw data file that is supposed to be compatible with spreadsheets. I don't have any spreadsheet programs and wouldn't know what to do with one if I had it.

Re: What is the serial # of your LS and how does that coorelate with brightness/runtime?

Originally posted by Roy:
The plotting program that came with the multimeter does not (to my knowledge) allow for multiple plots on a single axis. I could probably find a graphing program that would do that and imput the data manually. The program creates a raw data file that is supposed to be compatible with spreadsheets. I don't have any spreadsheet programs and wouldn't know what to do with one if I had it.

Click to expand...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">OK, thanks

BN

Re: What is the serial # of your LS and how does that coorelate with brightness/runtime?

#603 runs longer because it uses "old" style DC-DC partial regulation (like the Arc AAA, I believe). It was also desgined to run at 1.5v (and lower).

The newer 3 you have use Wayne's more robust regulated circuit and has a 1.2~1.4 voltage cut-off, so new LS's with this circuit will not run long, if at all on 1.5v. The benefit of the new circuit is near flat regulation & greater light output. The downside is that is runs hotter and shorter. I don't think 2 Alkaline AA's will work very well with the 500mA versions, 2 AA lithiums or NiMH rechargeables will work better.

I'm really surprised that #603 is so bright, maybe because it has a very efficient LS in it & #1815 & #1956 are dimmer because they are seconds (they are seconds, correct?), sold that way because they were not as bright as expected. #1696 is probably about the brightness you would expect out of a currently shipping first.

How do the others compare to the KL1?

BTW, My LS first #1475 (500mA) is about 10% dimmer than my KL1 and runs for 1 1/4 hours maintaining 95% of it's original brightness for that time & then drops slowly into moon mode. I get the same brightness and runtime from both 2 NiMH AA's and from 1 DL123A.

Re: What is the serial # of your LS and how does that coorelate with brightness/runtime?

Originally posted by Sean:
#603 runs longer because it uses "old" style DC-DC partial regulation (like the Arc AAA, I believe). It was also desgined to run at 1.5v (and lower).

The newer 3 you have use Wayne's more robust regulated circuit and has a 1.2~1.4 voltage cut-off, so new LS's with this circuit will not run long, if at all on 1.5v. The benefit of the new circuit is near flat regulation & greater light output. The downside is that is runs hotter and shorter. I don't think 2 Alkaline AA's will work very well with the 500mA versions, 2 AA lithiums or NiMH rechargeables will work better.

I'm really surprised that #603 is so bright, maybe because it has a very efficient LS in it & #1815 & #1956 are dimmer because they are seconds (they are seconds, correct?), sold that way because they were not as bright as expected. #1696 is probably about the brightness you would expect out of a currently shipping first.

How do the others compare to the KL1?

BTW, My LS first #1475 (500mA) is about 10% dimmer than my KL1 and runs for 1 1/4 hours maintaining 95% of it's original brightness for that time & then drops slowly into moon mode. I get the same brightness and runtime from both 2 NiMH AA's and from 1 DL123A.

Click to expand...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Sean,

All my SLS's are seconds, and all my tests were with 2AA lithiums. Comparing to KL1 is hard because beams are so different. "#603" is somewhat less bright than KL1 but with a much more appealing tint and a much broader field of illumination that more than makes up for lack of center spotlight effect.

In a comparison test over the four hours and five minutes of my KL1's regulation, #603 lost surprisingly little brightness, and after four hours quickly soared way ahead of a "mooning" KL1. After 6 hours, my #603 was still at least as bright as my unexpectedly white and bright reactor on fresh lithium AA's. That surprised and impressed me. I believe that #603 is a fluke, a freakishly efficient Luxeon. If only they were all like that!

The two other SLS's (I'm excluding "SuperNova") were fine but not as bright as, and noticeably shorter running than 603.

Even though the E2e+KL1 is a handome light, I actually prefer the form factor of the SLS. It fits neatly into a slightly altered MAG 2AAA pouch and has a remarkably subtle profile, probably the smallest of any holstered 2x123 light, including , of course the E2e/KL1.

Brightnorm

Re: What is the serial # of your LS and how does that coorelate with brightness/runtime?

I agree with the run-time results of your #603 using older & lower power "regulation".

The new regulation in the Arcs is suppose to run brighter & conseqentally shorter than your #603. The run-time of these newly regulated LS's with a 123 lithium will run about as long as your KL1 will on your E1.

I went back and read old posts & I think a lot of hybrid "seconds" (but not all) were not much if any brighter than non-hybrid seconds, but the firsts are brighter. Peter is probably selling these as seconds since they didn't meet his determination of minimal brightness for firsts.