What AAA light is the best

Krit

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I know that Fenix LO series is rather the best now with multi level of light. But for realy use I found that PWM of it's low level is not very good for me. Could you please suggest the best one without PWM. I think 2 levels is OK for my use.
 

JJohn

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Take a look at the LiteFlux LF2. Just ignore all the fancy stuff and it is the best UI of any twisty. Tighten the head and it is off (better than loosening to turn off). twist the head a bit and it is on. Twist it some more and it is on brighter. If you try to use all the strobes, adjustment modes, and other functions, the UI is over complicated and not user-friendly, especially when being used in the dark. But, when used as a simple 2-stage light, it is the easiest most intuitive interface.

Yes, it is PWM but the switching frequency is 7.8kHz. Absolutely impossible to detect with your eyes. Almost 100 times faster switching than most PWM lights and yet still extremely efficient.
 

mudman cj

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Another light to consider as "the best" is the MillerMods Arc AAA Cree XR-E. It is available with two level output using no PWM and can be configured to run at up to 1.5 Watts on high for an estimated 110 lumens using a Q3 bin emitter. It doesn't come cheap and there is a long waiting list, but good things come to those that wait. :)

Chimo offered a similar mod, but there were only a handful available with no more on the horizon. :awman:
 

Grubbster

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I'll second the LF2. It was my "go to" light until I lost it a couple of weeks ago. I like the two basic levels which can be programed however you want. There are also the "bells and whistle" modes for those that like those sort of things.
 

Hans

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Double post ... Some problem with the server too busy.
 
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Hans

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OK, I think I want to go down a completely different route.

For me, an AAA light is always a secondary light, because I always carry something bigger around (even though my AAA light may get more use than my main light). What I want is first and foremost *long* runtime and very high reliablity. No real need for more than 1 level, no need for strobe and so on, even though I must admit die LOD CE and other lights in that class are cool.

And the best light I found so far is the cheap Fenix E0. Flat regulation, 10 hours of light on a humble AAA alkaline, no need for NiMH rechargeables or exotic lithium batteries, a light that simply works when you need it.

So, if you just need a small light that works, I'd go for the Fenix E0. If you want a nice toy and can't cope with the PWM of the LOD CE, go for a modded Arc or an LF2.

Hans
 

kitelights

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For basic all around use, durability and reliability, the classic ARC AAA v4 premium.
If I have pants on, I have it with me in my pocket. Even with several dozens of flashlights, it is my most used light. It used to be the most used by a landslide, but now at home and in my car, I wear a CR2 Ion around my neck that sees quite a bit of use.

The ARC AAA is as practical now as it was originally, even more so, because it's twice as bright. If it were brighter, it would not be as useful for me. Too much light is not good for me for closeup work and simple tasks like reading menus. Since you already carry a bigger, brighter light, it is the perfect compliment.
 

cdosrun

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I have an E0 on my keyring for long runtime and reliability; the other day, when I was playing with the things on my keyring I tapped the E0 and heard a ring. After disassembling it, I found the inductor core had snapped and one of the LED leads had come off the board. I guess that the shock of dropping it occasionally was a little too much. I resoldered the LED and glued the indcutor and it works perfectly again, but it has now caused me to question its reliability.

If I only stood a better chance in the L0-Ti raffle.... :)

Andrew
 

williamv0123

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+1 on the ARC-P AAA. If PWM is the only issue, this has got to be the best all around task light. Reliable, extremely durable, reasonably bright, and great customer support.
 

Krit

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Thanks for all suggestion. Now my AAA light become more useful than another light I carried. It's very useful and most use for me so I have to find the better one for me. After I carry LO series I found that PWM is make me headache for long time use. I think I will try with liteflux lf2 because 2 simple stages as comments.
Thanks.
 

:)>

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My vote is for the Peak Baltic. Not only is it beautifully made, but with the Seoul P4 LED, it is an incredibly long running light that stays in regulation for much longer than my Arc AAA-P. I did a head to head test of the Peak and the Arc the other night and after around 6 hours on alkaline batteries, the Peak had lost only a little bit of brightness and the Arc was way down.

Up to this point, I would have said the Arc is the best, but the Peak is the new sheriff in town.

For me, runtime is the most desireable attribute for an AAA light. If I want brightness, I will use a 1 x CR123 light.

I have a stainless steel Peak Baltic and a titanium one and they are fantastic. I will be buying one soon in Ultra or Super Power.

-Goatee
 

Biggoggs

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+1 on the Arc-AAA-P. Might not be the leader it once was, but the quality, brightness, battery life, and the fact it can take any cheap old AAA still means it's a great secondary/EDC. The question isn't whether it's outdated, but whether it's still adequate.


You could always get one of those small candles in metal cups, for the ultimate in broad-spectrum light production. No PWM, and they're probably cheaper per-unit than any AAA/AA/CR2016/CR123 :)
 

ringzero

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cdosrun said:
the other day, when I was playing with the things on my keyring I tapped the E0 and heard a ring...I resoldered the LED and glued the indcutor and it works perfectly again, but it has now caused me to question its reliability.

That has always been my concern with Fenix lights. I really like my E0 and E1; they're decent lights for their prices.

However, after looking at pics of their innards on CPF, they don't strike me as being overly robust. I've never felt great confidence that their innards would hold up well after repeated drops and bangs.

My E0 and E1 have each survived short drops onto cement and have continued working fine, with only a few dings to show for it. But, I wouldn't choose one of these lights as a backup light when the chips are down.

.
 

JML

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Lumapower has an "F-Mini" coming out, running off a AAA. Scheduled for May release. Probably worth waiting for, given the output and quality of their other lights!
 

this_is_nascar

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:)> said:
My vote is for the Peak Baltic. Not only is it beautifully made, but with the Seoul P4 LED, it is an incredibly long running light that stays in regulation for much longer than my Arc AAA-P. I did a head to head test of the Peak and the Arc the other night and after around 6 hours on alkaline batteries, the Peak had lost only a little bit of brightness and the Arc was way down.

Up to this point, I would have said the Arc is the best, but the Peak is the new sheriff in town.

For me, runtime is the most desireable attribute for an AAA light. If I want brightness, I will use a 1 x CR123 light.

I have a stainless steel Peak Baltic and a titanium one and they are fantastic. I will be buying one soon in Ultra or Super Power.

-Goatee

If that's really the case, you have a sub-par Arc. All of my Arc's meet the 10-hour mark for pretty good brightness.
 

this_is_nascar

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cdosrun said:
I have an E0 on my keyring for long runtime and reliability; the other day, when I was playing with the things on my keyring I tapped the E0 and heard a ring. After disassembling it, I found the inductor core had snapped and one of the LED leads had come off the board. I guess that the shock of dropping it occasionally was a little too much. I resoldered the LED and glued the indcutor and it works perfectly again, but it has now caused me to question its reliability.

If I only stood a better chance in the L0-Ti raffle.... :)

Andrew


... which is why I've gone on record several times stating that the Arc-AAA is the only light I'd stake my life on. It's that dependable and reliable.
 
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