Beamshots: Ultrafire C2, Lumapower M1 w/ lens, Seoul Maglite

2xTrinity

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Anyway, I've decided to compare a few of the flashlights that I have modified:

Ultrafire C2 - this is the one with the HA-III natural finish from Kai. I ended up swapping the ugly purplish emitter, and the stock 1.1A buck driver, with a Cree WH-bin (warmest available) LED left over from another project, and a 800mA buck driver from DX for longer runtime. I also replaced the one-stage reverse clicky with a McClicky forward clicky. Running 2xCR123

Lumapower M1 - Replaced the reflector with an aspheric lens* to maximize throw, and then I lined the inside of the light with reflective tape to recover a little bit of spill. Replaced the two-stage reverse clicky with McClicky, as well. Stock emitter was on the cool side, probably a WC bin Cree. Running 2xCR123

Maglite 2D - Anodized aluminum heatsink, micro-puck boost driver (500mA) and Seoul SVO-bin emitter.


Indoor Beamshots
The shots were taken inside, during the daytime, with daylight white balance to demonstrate the color of each beam.





Backyard Beamshots
Taken just after dark. The short palm trees are fairly close, I couldn't conveniently set up a longer beamshot elsewhere. Images show C2, M1, and Maglite respectively.




EDIT:


This is a closeup of the tree, taken with optical zoom and a fixed 1/2 second exposure. Tree is about 70-75 feet from the emitter in this shot.



This is the same tree, showing a side-by-side comparison between a Mag (driven slightly over 1A, double the output of the one above) and the Amondotech N30 HID. That one has a neutral color temp of 4200K which is apparent, even with auto white balance.




* EDIT: I just received a PM that the lens I linked to did not have correct focus. It's possible the lens I had linked to is different than the one I used before -- I physically measured the focal length and diameter, then linked to the lens on surplus shed with those same nominal dimensions (30mm x 15mm) but apparent the 30x15mm lens up there now is significantly changed. Also, my M1 is the old M1, not the tactical which apparently has a deeper reflector -- which might make the 30x20mm lens a better fit)
 
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Lux Luthor

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Wow, the M1 looks like it's kicking the m@glite's butt!

Some questions:

1) Do the relative brightnesses of the hotspots appear as they do in the outdoor pics? I'm wondering if the lack of spill in the M1, and hence the greater contrast with the foreground, could be exaggerating the intensity of the hotspot in that pic.

2) Is the m@g at tightest focus?

3) About how far is it to that (palm tree?)?.


Lux
 

2xTrinity

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Wow, the M1 looks like it's kicking the m@glite's butt!

Some questions:

1) Do the relative brightnesses of the hotspots appear as they do in the outdoor pics? I'm wondering if the lack of spill in the M1, and hence the greater contrast with the foreground, could be exaggerating the intensity of the hotspot in that pic.
The difference is exaggerated because of that, but the difference still quite pronounecd in reality (in fact, it turns out I was running the M1 with run-down cells) The M1 is much stronger than the mag at tighest focus, which is only being driven at 500 mA. I have a friend with a Malkoff Maglite, and I compared the two up at his house (in the woods, with no ambient light) -- the M1 threw significantly further even though the beam-angle is similar, because the lens captures nearly all the lumens from the emitter.

2) Is the m@g at tightest focus?
yes

3) About how far is it to that (palm tree?)?.
Not far, about 65 feet. I should be able to do a longer-range photo soon.
 

2xTrinity

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For the time being, here is a redone version of the palm tree. This time, I set up the flashlight slightly further away (70-75ft) and positioned the camera in a different place, so that no spill would be captured. Also, I fixed the exposure on this shot, 1/2 second on all:



In terms of practicality however, at this short of range, the M1 is actually the least useful , and the C2, with its bright flood, is more useful as it lights up the entire backyard nearly equally.

This does demonstrate one thing that I've noticed well -- indoors, the C2 is by far the best for color rendering (ceiling bounce), the emitter is higher quality and has truer color. However, outdoors, this is more than outweighed by the fact that the M1 throws more light onto the target -- I can discern color much more accurately with it than the others. These photos are a realistic comparison of relative hotspot brightness.
 
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Lux Luthor

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Thanks again. These are very useful pics.

I'm interested in something like your M1 for 2 reasons. On foot, I usually have another light source for flood (such as a headlamp or pocket light), but still need to occasionally throw a long range spot, and need only that.

Also, while driving, I like to be able to hit a longe range target, such as a highway sign or some curious thing at the side of the road. Of course throw is very important here because you may be going 60 mph or more. I currently use a m@g 2D 6AA lux III nflex mod, but it's a behemoth. I'd love something much smaller. Also, the spill from the reflector is of no long range value at all, but obnoxiously lights up my windshield making it harder to see.
 

2xTrinity

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Thanks again. These are very useful pics.

I'm interested in something like your M1 for 2 reasons. On foot, I usually have another light source for flood (such as a headlamp or pocket light), but still need to occasionally throw a long range spot, and need only that.

Also, while driving, I like to be able to hit a longe range target, such as a highway sign or some curious thing at the side of the road. Of course throw is very important here because you may be going 60 mph or more. I currently use a m@g 2D 6AA lux III nflex mod, but it's a behemoth. I'd love something much smaller. Also, the spill from the reflector is of no long range value at all, but obnoxiously lights up my windshield making it harder to see.
I actually use the M1 for just that, long range spotting outdoors (the minimal spill is is better as I'd rather have full pupil dialation to see my long range targer, which I won't get if the ground in front of me is brightly lit). The other way I'll use it is for reading unlit signs and such without throwing my high-beams up, or lighting things up at the side of the road.
 

CandlePowerForumsUser

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was the aspheric lens a direct drop in or did you have to do any kind of modification to it... just wanted to know in advance.... BTW I ordered one although you didn't specify if you have the tactical M1 or not (dunno if it even matters). I go boating a lot at night so I need throw with no spill and have been using the M1 for that but would like even more throw and less spill.

TIA

EDIT: oh wait, in your pic, its the older M1. I hope it fits the tactical version.
 

2xTrinity

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was the aspheric lens a direct drop in or did you have to do any kind of modification to it... just wanted to know in advance.... BTW I ordered one although you didn't specify if you have the tactical M1 or not (dunno if it even matters). I go boating a lot at night so I need throw with no spill and have been using the M1 for that but would like even more throw and less spill.

TIA

EDIT: oh wait, in your pic, its the older M1. I hope it fits the tactical version.
No modification needed in my case, the lens simply dropped in. I did not have the tactical, I had the old M1. If the reflector diameter and focal length did not change significantly, the lens should still work.
 

CandlePowerForumsUser

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got the lens today. for the life of me I can't seem to figure how to get it right? 2xTrinity can you tell me how you did it?

thanks
 

Chao

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Got my lens today too, very cool, thanks 2xTrinity :twothumbs

m1modshot-2.jpg
 

CandlePowerForumsUser

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Chao, correct me if I'm wrong. in your pic... you have the lens installed with the pointy end out the front?

This means you took out the OEM lens and reflector right?


thanks!
 

2xTrinity

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Chao, correct me if I'm wrong. in your pic... you have the lens installed with the pointy end out the front?

This means you took out the OEM lens and reflector right?
Yep, I unscrewed the stock lens/reflector, dropped the lens into the bezel, then re-applied the retaining ring. I then rolled up some reflective tape, cut it to fit, then inserted it to act as a secondary reflector to increase the spill coming out of the light. Another thing that some have done is to primer, then paint the entire inside of the light with glow paint to create an intense afterglow effect (I'd rather have the spill while the light is on, myself)
 

CandlePowerForumsUser

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OK great! Thanks for the responses guys. Now I can't wait to get home and try installing the lens again. It'll be a really cool hand held spotlight for my boating trips at night.

15,000 lux is more than the MVR.. i read somewhere it was 1 a little over 10,000.

This is gonna be so cool. :twothumbs
 

CandlePowerForumsUser

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update... I don't think this is gonna work on the Tactical M1 since the head is longer. I got everything to fit in nicely. hotspot is out of focus since the lens is farther away from the emitter. TO be more accurate. I have donut of a hotspot. I wonder if I could buy just the bezel from the older M1.
 

2xTrinity

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update... I don't think this is gonna work on the Tactical M1 since the head is longer. I got everything to fit in nicely. hotspot is out of focus since the lens is farther away from the emitter. TO be more accurate. I have donut of a hotspot. I wonder if I could buy just the bezel from the older M1.
I actually wouldn't mind buying an old M1 Bezel myself. That way, I could keep a reflector installed in there, and switch between the lens and reflector on the fly.

One thing you might try is inserting the lens backwards (curved end facing in), that will probably make it too far out of focus the other way (sort of a flood beam), can't hurt to give it a shot though.
 

CandlePowerForumsUser

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I actually tried it every way I could think of. Seems like no other option but to get a extra bezel. I wouldn't mind for the same reason you pointed out.:naughty:
 
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