Got my Grey Kit, how to assemble?

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logicnerd411

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Asuming I have the Scotthky diode, where do I solder it?

The battery retainer goes on the top or bottom?

The LED and heatsink are just placed and held together by the bezel and body?

Basically, could someone please show me step by step?
 

JohnG

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greyins.jpg

The battery retainer usually goes on the underside of the board.
 

Doug S

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Originally posted by logicnerd411:
WHOA! THat was bright! I put all the parts together and it lit! Is this because my shipper (sunspot) has already prepared the lit for me? Or should I not do this until I get the diode?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">If it lit, then the diode was there. If the diode was absent you would have instantly destroyed the IC. You should check the pictures in the Greykit diode thread to make sure that all of the components are on your board. Some boards are being received that have the diodes but are missing the output caps. It will lightup without the cap but it is not a good idea to run it this way.
EDIT: See nice picture above provided by JohnG. The output cap is the brown rectangle at 9 o'clock.
 

Doug S

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Originally posted by logicnerd411:
I don't have the output cap!!! Where can I get one? WHat are the specs of it?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">There is some discussion of this in the Greykit diode thread. I suggest a 10uF/10V with X5R dielectric and 1210 case size. They are putting together a group buy in that thread and there may still be time for you to get in on it. If you are in a big hurry, you can send me $1 and a SASE and I will send you one.
 

CM

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You want a ceramic cap, 1uF minimum, rated 10V or so for a 1W LED. If you go with a polarized (ie tantalum) make sure the positive end points towards the LED. Ceramic is preferred for low ESR.

CM
 

logicnerd411

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WHOA! THat was bright! I put all the parts together and it lit! Is this because my shipper (sunspot) has already prepared the lit for me? Or should I not do this until I get the diode?
 

Doug S

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Originally posted by napalm-2002:
okay for some of us stupid people (me) how do i know which is the cathode or anode.can i check the parts with my ohm meter to tell whick goes where.i am somewhat electronicall literate i just dont want to ruin anything...

mike
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Mike, I am not sure whether you mean the cathode and anode of the schottky diode or the LED so here is the answer for both.
For the schottky diode there will be a line on the top of the package at the cathode end. For the Luxeon LED the anode lead will be the one adjacent to the small tab with the hole in it. Using your meter: if it has a "diode" function you can use it to measure the schottky but probably not the LED. For the schottky it will read between 0.1 and 0.2V when the positive meter lead is connected to the anode and off-scale when the positive lead is connected to the cathode.
 

JohnG

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The diode will usually have a stripe, line or a flat on the cathode end. The Luxeon has a small tab with a dot on that end.
 

Mednanu

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So I keep hearing about these grey kits, but Arc doesn't appear to have them in stock anymore. Are you who are currently sportin' Greys aware of some alternate source to purchase them, or are these kits that you've had for awhile and are now just getting around to building them ?

Anyone want to sell a leftover grey kit ? Even just the grey body would do, as I plan on trying out some custom hacks and would only need the body ( if it's reasonable priced ).

:)
 

Mednanu

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That's what I was worried about - thanks for the response though. If anyone 'fluxors' up one of their kits and would like to get rid of the body ( or even an entire kit for that matter ), let me know what you'd be willing to part with it for.

I have no problem with the electrical work, but I don't have the necessary shop tools to do the machining the way I'd like. I really do like the 'minimalist' design of the arc - compact, utilitarian, simple yet stylish - a rather timeless and functional design.....it just needs some more 'juice' running through it, and a bigger emitter to make it ideal for my tastes. I would love to try a 5 watt'er inside one of those little jewels.
 

logicnerd411

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Would a 10uF 6.3V work? How about a 10uF 12.5V? This cap I'm looking at is a "ESRD Ultra Low ESR Polymer Chip, 105 degrees C"
 

Doug S

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Originally posted by logicnerd411:
Would a 10uF 6.3V work? How about a 10uF 12.5V? This cap I'm looking at is a "ESRD Ultra Low ESR Polymer Chip, 105 degrees C"
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Electrically, either would work very well. I am unsure that you could find them small enough to fit physically. If you do, please let us know.
 
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