Tutorial: this is how you build 4*seoul 2D mag (w/ lot of pics!)

I finished some time ago my second 2D magseoul mod. The specs of the mod are:

- Bored out mag 2D
- 2D to 8 AA battery holder
- UCL lense
- 4*Seoul P4 U-bin leds
- 4*McR20s reflectors
- Modified Modamag's PES2-D heatsink
- Shark 30/200/900 mA converter
- Self-made 3-stage control circuit for the Shark
- Runtimes 50 / 10 / 2 hours correspondingly (estimates for 2700 mAh nimhs)

The control circuit (see here) that I made makes separate control switch un-necessary. Instead, the brightness levels will be controlled with the original mag switch by turning the flashlight on and off:
*Turn the flashlight on -> it starts on low level.
*Turn the flashlight off and quickly on -> mid level.
*Turn the flashlight off and quickly on again -> high level.
*Turning the flashlight off and on one more time will start the sequence from the beginning (low).
* Keeping the flashlight off for more than 3 seconds in any stage of the sequence will zero the circuit and start the sequence from the beginning.

So, this is where the modding starts:



Remove the switch cover:



Unscrew the head:



Loosen the screw holding the switch with a hex wrench:



Push the switch holder out:



Remove the metallic bulb holder:



Push the switch out of the switch holder:



Cut the minus contact lead:



Cut the plastic bulb holder:



Remove the battery holder retaining ring inside the tube:



Bore out the battery tube so that its inner diameter increases by 1mm. I don't have a lathe so I used sanding paper and drill like shown below... boring is boring without lathe! :green:



Here you can see non-modified PES2-D heatsink:



I prefer installing leds on a flat surface. That's why I sanded the heatsink edges down. Note also that I have modified the middle hole so that a screwdriver can be used to screw/unscrew the heatsink. This feature will be needed later:



Remove the original lense and reflector and screw the heatsink to its place:



The bezel is a bit too tall. Sand it some 1 mm shorter so that it squeezes the reflectors and leds nicely:



Cut the led leads shorter. Turn the reflector upside down and drop the led to its place. Center the led and when it's properly centered drop few drops of cyanoacrylate glue to both sides of the led. From now on the led+reflector combo will be one non-separable unit. Do this to all four leds and let the glue dry properly:



Apply a thin electrically insulating layer of arctic silver epoxy to the slug of each emitter:



File the reflector sides so that they fit in the mag head. After that, solder the wires to each emitter so that they are connected in series:



Apply arctic silver epoxy to each slug and drop the led+reflector units to the flashlight head. Use the bezel and lense to squeeze the led+reflector units down:



This is why you want to modify the heatsink middle hole: now you can use a screwdriver to unscrew the heatsink+leds+reflectors combo after the arctic silver epoxy has cured:



Solder the input and output wires to the back side of the Shark converter:



Remove the trimpot and connect three wires to the trimpot contacts:



Use arctic silver to glue the Shark to the back side of the heatsink:



There are two voltage dividers connected to two mosfets. Thin yellow and red wires control which voltage divider (and which brightness level) is active:



Here is the control circuit that I made for the Shark. It consists of 4017 decade counter and a few auxilary components.



The control circuit needs to be wrapped with duct tape:



Apply arctic silver paste to the threads of the heatsink...



...and install the heatsink, bezel and UCL lense:



Solder wires to the switch:



Install the switch-holding metal ring to the battery tube and push the switch back to the switch holder:



Connect the wires...



...and screw the flashlight head to its place:



Here is the finished magseoul mod!



This mod is very close to my first magseoul mod and you can find beamshots in the thread describing it.

Thanks for looking!

-N

Re: Tutorial: this is how you build 4*seoul 2D mag (w/ lot of pics)

Wowwwwww, you have do a excellent work!!!!!! :thumbsup:

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr

Re: Tutorial: this is how you build 4*seoul 2D mag (w/ lot of pics)

Nice tut and pics..

ThanX
X.

Re: Tutorial: this is how you build 4*seoul 2D mag (w/ lot of pics)

msxtr said:

Wowwwwww, you have do a excellent work!!!!!! :thumbsup:

Greetings - Saludos

msxtr

Click to expand...

Awesome! I didn't think I would ever get a chance to do something like this, but a tutorial that good has changed my mind! Great job! :wave:
If we could only get details on the setup for that driver and control circuit...

Re: Tutorial: this is how you build 4*seoul 2D mag (w/ lot of pics)

Most excellent! Thanks for all the great detail.

Re: Tutorial: this is how you build 4*seoul 2D mag (w/ lot of pics)

Great job. Nice write up.
I know how long these take to write up. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
That control circuit looks very intreasting, I hope you plan to share more details or maybe another Tutorial?
All that sanding would drive me mad.

Re: Tutorial: this is how you build 4*seoul 2D mag (w/ lot of pics)

Nice Work and pictures. I am also very much interested in the 3 stage circuit

This week, i should have all the parts to build a Quad Mag 2C.
I bought also a *$$* M7 x 0.75 Thread tap for the Potentiometer

zelda

Re: Tutorial: this is how you build 4*seoul 2D mag (w/ lot of pics)

was it hard to bore out the mag with your drill setup?
How did you avoid going too far and removing the lip for the switch retaining ring?
And where did you get the 2D - 8AA holder from?

Re: Tutorial: this is how you build 4*seoul 2D mag (w/ lot of pics)

i like the mod but why did you have to mess up a perfectly good heatsink?

my heart was aching when i saw the heatsink...

Re: Tutorial: this is how you build 4*seoul 2D mag (w/ lot of pics)

Joedm: it is not technically hard to do the boring, it is just - boring and takes a long time (several hours) . I removed the switch retaining c-ring before boring. I bought the battery holder in the Sandwich shoppe, here.

Chesterqw: I sanded the heatsink down because I prefer installing the led on a flat surface: if something goes wrong you have good access to the leds.

I will post a separate thread about the control circuit.

Thanks, guys, for your comments!

-N

Boring for several hours? Are you kidding?
Do you have a setup to just leave the drill running or do you have to physically hold it for several hours?
oh yeah I'm also very interested in your controller

:goodjob:

How much current goes through the leds on high?

Nice tutorial, very informative. Did you have any problems with using arctic silver on the Shark board? They don't recommended it for use on circuit boards since it has capacitance. Arctic Alumina is rcommended for this.

Joedm: Yes, the boring process takes many hours, mainly due to the fact that the flashlight body gets very hot because of friction. That's why you have to have breaks to let the flashlight body cool down.

3rd_shift: the max current to the leds is 900 mA.

Monkeyboy: I haven't ever had problems using AS to glue circuit boards. Obviously it is *very* slightly capacitive.

-N

Excellent tutorial Nereus, thanks for sharing.

Another great crafting job - very nice! I have one thought for you on the circuit board you wrap with duct tape. Long ago I built Yachts and used a lot of Silicone in those 10 to 14 ounce tubes. These typically run about $3.00 to $4.00 U.S.Dollars and the gun for pushing it out is usually $1 to $2. Depending on the kind of silicone you get it's insulating and safe for use on circuits and I've used this for many years on circuit boards where they need protection. And it can be peeled off if you really need to get at something. I would think this would be a better solution than duct tape as duct tape tends to dry out eventually and sometimes come off. Possibly because I got very familiar with silicone and got good at dispensing it I seem to find uses for it all the time. Have you ever tried it for such things as this? Just a thought - there may be reasons I haven't thought of that makes duct tape better for your purpose. Thanks for another great mod thread.

Thanks for the comments! I posted detailed info on the control circuit here.

-N

For boring the Mag, have you tried using a cylinder hone?
That is what I use and it is MUCH faster, the hones are replacable, the tension is adjustable and they are low cost and can be used with a drill or drill press...,
As you can tell, I have no lathe either.

Nice work!!!
Will you be selling these?

very nice, I'm now inspired to do the same thing minus the trick switch,

BTW as far as the LEDs go, do you solder negative to positive three times and use the positive of the first and negative of the last to the converter board?

Thank you very much! I might give this a try when I have some extra time! :thumbsup: