Super Sterops: KIB/SSC module, McR20, 2-stage, tailstanding

LED Zeppelin

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I ordered a couple Sterops kits from Waion's thread if for no other reason that their sheer value in gm/$:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/158810

I had them drop shipped to Arcmania and he made new modules for them. Kato machined a new can, and Mike installed the awesome KIB converter driving a Seoul P4.

Here are some pics of the module build. I don't think I need to tell you which one is Mike's and which is the stock:


Here is a graph of what the KIB converter can do - roughly 3 hours and 30 minutes with a 1 x CR123. The LED is being driven at 350ma and with the SSC-P4, its putting out roughly 100 lumens. Input voltage range is 1.2 - 9volts. Note that this graph is not from these particular lights.


After receiving them from Mike, I proceeded to mod them further with a reflector and a 2-stage clickie.

The following pic shows the parts of the modded McR20 head vs. the stock with an optic. I had some McR20s with 0.030" turned off the back for proper focus with the Seoul, and I shortened the fronts to just before the first outer step. This thin shoulder is critical for retaining the reflector with the stock optic collar and threaded ring. Thus when changing to the lantern head, the reflector/bezel replace as a unit. Also the threaded retaining ring has an inner taper that matches the McR20 perfectly and centers it as well. The dimensions work out such that there is a small gap between the head and bezel, and the reflector seats on the LED surround.

The lens is a mineral glass watch crystal, 22 mm X 0.8mm thick. The O-ring is the stock one and seals perfectly with the lens.


The bezel threads are left-handed, and the head threads are right-handed. It's weird at first, but helps when changing to the lantern. Loosening the bezel left-handed, tightens the head, so the bezel only is removed easily (as long as you remember).

Here's the 2-stage tailstanding tail vs the stock. I used the same SPDT Judco switch I've used in many other mods. It has the same footprint but is taller than the stock. The stock switch is surprisingly a forward clickie, while the 2-stage is reverse.


I found that you can shim the boot with an O-ring so that it tailstands with the stock switch, retain the threaded inner ring, and still have adequate room for the tailcap spring. With the taller 2-stage, you need to lose the threaded ring, and mod the spring as shown.

Here are shots of the assembled lights. One has only the Arcmania module, the other has the McR20/tailstand/2-stage mod as well:


Now for beamshots, lights are loaded with fresh CR123s. Keep in mind both of these lights are running Mike's modules. Sorry, I don't have a stock light to compare against. On the left is the McR20 and at right the stock optic. Both shots are taken at F4, sunshine white balance. The first exposure was set to approximate what my eyes saw. The first is at 1/6 sec, and the second 1/30 sec:


At 1 m with my Meterman I read about 575 Lux for the McR20 and 680 for the optic. The McR20 has much brighter and wider spill, and the optic has better throw.

The Sterops kit as delivered is quite a value. The parts are very well made, and fit and finish look military grade. With the efficient KIB converter and Mike's crafted module it is a great light. Either the optic or a reflector performs well, and a simple O-ring in the tail allows it to tailstand. I think this is a must especially when using the lantern head. The lantern has a hanging point at the top , so unless it tailstands it will roll. The 2-stage is nice, but the stock is a forward clickie and has its benefits too. The button action has a better feel with the stock switch, perhaps due to being able to use the threaded tailcap ring which secures the switch module.
 
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jsr

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How easy is it to access the LED module on the stock Sterops light? I'd like to just swap the emitter if possible (a lower cost solution for me). If it's easy to access, that'd be great. How is the module held in and is the head easily opened? Thanks.
 

LED Zeppelin

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The emitter is easy to access. Just unscrew the head, then the threaded black plastic surround. You'll need some fine-tipped pliers to engage the two holes in the surround. Then the LED will be exposed to swap out, and you can remove the module as well. But you won't need to remove the module just to swap the emitter.
 

jsr

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Sweet. Going to pick one of these up. I read elsewhere that these are made extremely well. Looks like a great flexible setup for my BOB.
 

fa__

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Hello.

Where could I buy the replacement led module+driver described above ?
And how much does it cost ?

I just got a sterops this morning, i like it a lot and would like to make it better (but i still have not tried it at night :) )

Thanks
 

LED Zeppelin

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Hello.

Where could I buy the replacement led module+driver described above ?
And how much does it cost ?

I just got a sterops this morning, i like it a lot and would like to make it better (but i still have not tried it at night :) )

Thanks

You should PM ARC mania, he is the one who built the LE module.

I can only take credit for the tailcap portion.
 

fa__

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I think i will try to put a Q5 to replace the original led, without changing driver. Do you think it's a good idea ? Original driver seems to deliver 3.5-3.6v to the led.
Wil this mod really improve the sterops throughput ?

Thanks
 

LED Zeppelin

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It will definitely increase brightness, but the focus will likely be off. I haven't tried a Cree in the Sterops' optic, so you'll have to see how it performs. I'd bench test the setup before performing the mod.

I think the stock driver will be fine with a Cree.

You may want to consider swapping out the LED for a Seoul as well.
 

fa__

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Thanks for your advice.
Il will order one or two kind of LED and do measurements out of the flashlight as suggested. If I achieve something not too bad I'll show it here :)
 
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