Ultrafire 12V wf501c Incan.

I just got my 3 cell 12v Ultrafire light tonight and it is BRIGHT! I compared it up to my stinger and it blows the stinger away in brightness and throw.

What battery is better for these? 3 cr123a's or 2 18500's? Is there any difference in brightness or runtime?

Another thing I noticed about it is that it gets really hot. I mean REALLY hot all throughout the light. After 20 minutes I had to shut it off because it was actually too hot to handle. I am trying to do a burntime test to find out how long it lasts. This is the light I would want on a short traffic stop, but as far as scene lighting I wouldn't be able to hold it for more than 15 minutes. Anyone have a fix for this?

My biggest question is what is the difference between protected and unprotected batteries?

I got approximately 20 to 25 minutes on it to dim. It comes with a 9V bulb, i'll try that.

With the 9v LA you can run it off of two RCR123's. It should be still very bright. You should order the Ultrafire/G&P 14v lamp; then you can run it off of three RCR123's. I have one coming in the mail hopefully this week.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.771

At a certain high output point, a light will consume enough power that constant on use for scene lighting is inapproriate because of excess heat generation. It's just the nature of things, there is no "fix" for it except what every flashoholic loves to hear..."get another light!".

When I know I'll be outdoors at night I always carry a smallish long running single AA light as a get me home backup besides my pair of "walking" lights. One of my pair of walking lights is always something like a KL1 or KL3, modest output, some decent midrange throw, and low heat buildup. My other walking light is always a decent flood/thrower like the MN16 driven by 2x18650's. One for constant on use, the other for momentary. Each excells for their own purpose, and would be found lacking taken out of their proper "niche".

A 1 watt Luxeon such as the Streamlight TL-2 LED won't get hot with extended run times. With 3 watt Luxs, I know when to change the cells because the bezel will stop getting warm to the touch. With 5 watt Luxs constant on use generates more heat than I care for, so their use is momentary spotting of game, and other features of interest.

I suppose if an Incandescent lamp only used a watt or two during operation the heat buildup would be tolerable and run times more acceptable for task use purposes. But what fun would that be compared to an MN16 consuming 15 or 20 watts?

Paladin