ROP melting...............................

strideredc

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Cpf'ers,

I have fried the spring in my ROP mad 6 d cell) it's the one in the front of the switch and just behind the bulb holder… I really want to keep the ROP as I spent loads on 10,000 mah d cells. What can I do to make this a bit more robust (bulb holder surround is melting), I don't care if I lose the ROP bulb holder but I want to keep the d cell's so it needs to stay around 7+- volts?!?!
Any ideas

As always, max lum and max runtime!!!!!!!!!!:sssh:

Thanks

 

LuxLuthor

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You need to use a KIU setup for bulb holder and aluminum base which fits on top of the Maglite default bottom switch. The spring tower is sawed off because of what you just had happen.
 

bfg9000

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Yup, they do tend to do this if there is any resistance in the slider mechanism. You can try replacing the switch assembly and doing the resistance fix this time. Or use the Kiu as Lux suggested and go for 40w of 5761 power, or the 64275... because a 6D is a little large for something only as bright as a ROP. Should still run over 1 1/2 hours.
 
Last edited:

strideredc

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Yup, they do tend to do this if there is any resistance in the slider mechanism. You can try replacing the switch assembly and doing the resistance fix this time. Or use the Kiu as Lux suggested and go for 40w of 5761 power, or the 64275... because a 6D is a little large for something only as bright as a ROP. Should still run over 1 1/2 hours.


thanks for the ideas. these two bulbs you mention, where can i get them (i am in the uk) and what is there output?
:paypal: to kiu for the holder...

thanks
 

FlashSpyJ

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this got me thinking...am I running the same risk? I have a 2D ROP. havent heard of this before...
 

FILIPPO

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this got me thinking...am I running the same risk? I have a 2D ROP. havent heard of this before...

probably yes, maybe he has run his ROP HIGH for a long time (over 1h??)
I don't know if you can get over 1h of runtime out of 6AAs...
 

FlashSpyJ

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havent tested the runtime on high, but I heard around 20-25 min on high bulb, and 45-50 min on the low. are there any risk then? probably wont use the light non stop, but its good to know
 

FILIPPO

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havent tested the runtime on high, but I heard around 20-25 min on high bulb, and 45-50 min on the low. are there any risk then? probably wont use the light non stop, but its good to know

I think that in this case there aren't any risk...
 

strideredc

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Progold everything.

i did :shakehead

i am using the ROP high and never had it running for more than 25-30 min!

the holder just isnt designed to take that sort of current, then why should it be?

it was when it keept playing up that i noticed it was starting to melt... i think the kiu should sort it out but just need the right bulb for it, and where to get it.

ideas???

thanks
 

bfg9000

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It's the slider contact that gets hottest, so bypassing it with a wire helps a lot. Bypassing the whole socket with a Kiu is best of all.

The 64275 is an Osram bulb so try your local Osram bulb shop.

The 5761 is a Philips bulb so try your local Philips dealer first.

We've been getting them from here and here, a place that does ship internationally UPS or FedEx.
 

strideredc

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It's the slider contact that gets hottest, so bypassing it with a wire helps a lot. Bypassing the whole socket with a Kiu is best of all.

The 64275 is an Osram bulb so try your local Osram bulb shop.

The 5761 is a Philips bulb so try your local Philips dealer first.

We've been getting them from here and here, a place that does ship internationally UPS or FedEx.

just ordered 2 of each, thanks:D
 

bfg9000

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Well you've gone the bipin route (and that really is the best way, since there is no solder blob to melt and short things out or burning vapors from potting compound to fog expensive reflectors and lenses, plus you can "tweak" the centering of a bipin) but for completeness (in case someone else actually uses the search function and finds this thread in the future), there is one other option that just appeared today: an aluminum replacement for the nylon tower.
 

JimmyM

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The 64275 is more sensitive than the 5761. On anything near fresh NiNM Ds it will flash.
I've got a 6D HAIII running the 64275 with a hotdriver set to 7.0-7.1 volts. I used the 64275 instead of the 5761 because I thought it gave a whiter, tighter beam. If you're running direct drive on the 64275 I think it'll instaflash.
 

Lightfantastic

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Using 10,000 MAH rechargeable D's, there is enough steady current to run the thing for about 2-3 hours. The little spring under the bulb just can't do it. All of the low-resistance fixes must be done, as there is very little voltage or current drop using 6 NiMH D's, and all the weak points will be uncovered, one by one. You are running at the ragged edge of ROPdom. If you haven't noticed, it is quite a bit brighter than any other configuration of ROP. I just wish the switch could be a bit further back on the body.
 

strideredc

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thanks jimmym,

but to late! (my fault for not looking) i just fried two bulbs, a phillips and a osram.

Its now running a direct drive kiu socket to bypass the weak points, even the tail spring has a thick copper wire soldered in to reduce the resistance…
I don't have a hotdriver, where can I get one?, or is there a bulb I can put in that wont instaflash and is bright?
Ideas???

Thanks
 

aerosimon

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Will 6 GP2000 4/5A or similar cells have the same instaflash issues with these osram/phillips offerings? Im new to the bipin scene and looking to go the AW C softstart multilevel switch so will that sort any instaflash probs, or is the overdrive just too great hot off charger? Finally will 6nimh drive these bulbs better than 2 of AW's C Li Ions..

About the osram (axial) and phillips, which gives the more intense hotspot? I imagin the osram is more uniform, but I'm interested in max hotspot cp. Finally, can you repair a damaged magswitch after its died as described by strideredc? Mine failed while operating at 60W 3A (MR16 setup).. Sorry for the barage of questions.

thanks guys
aerosimon
 

strideredc

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Will 6 GP2000 4/5A or similar cells have the same instaflash issues with these osram/phillips offerings? Im new to the bipin scene and looking to go the AW C softstart multilevel switch so will that sort any instaflash probs, or is the overdrive just too great hot off charger? Finally will 6nimh drive these bulbs better than 2 of AW's C Li Ions..

About the osram (axial) and phillips, which gives the more intense hotspot? I imagin the osram is more uniform, but I'm interested in max hotspot cp. Finally, can you repair a damaged magswitch after its died as described by strideredc? Mine failed while operating at 60W 3A (MR16 setup).. Sorry for the barage of questions.

thanks guys
aerosimon

lots of questions...it seems you just about get to understand one thing then it turns into something else!...well its all good fun! i am sure one of the guys on here can answer some of these......help!
 

JimmyM

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I'm not sure about the GP2000s. They're high current cells, but still only 1/5 the capacity of the D NiMH cells.
The 64275 is better for hot spot I think. It has a smaller axial filament and is a 40W bulb versus the 5761's 30-35W.
6 D NiMH cells will run it better than AWs cells if you can get it not to flash. Those big Ds really do hold their voltage.

Good luck finding a hotdriver. It seems AWR is scarce these days. I have an "extra" but AWR has it for repairs.

Will 6 GP2000 4/5A or similar cells have the same instaflash issues with these osram/phillips offerings? Im new to the bipin scene and looking to go the AW C softstart multilevel switch so will that sort any instaflash probs, or is the overdrive just too great hot off charger? Finally will 6nimh drive these bulbs better than 2 of AW's C Li Ions..

About the osram (axial) and phillips, which gives the more intense hotspot? I imagin the osram is more uniform, but I'm interested in max hotspot cp. Finally, can you repair a damaged magswitch after its died as described by strideredc? Mine failed while operating at 60W 3A (MR16 setup).. Sorry for the barage of questions.

thanks guys
aerosimon
 
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