Thanks!
Ok, so with LED's does voltage matter that much?
Would I get the same brightness out of a 3 cell light as I would a 4 cell?
Others can explain it better than I can, but I'll give it a shot. I'm sure I'll learn something from this no matter what. The LED needs a certain voltage to run at a certain hight. Too high a voltage and you'll be overdriving (running above spec. and decreasing the life of the LED) and too low a voltage and you'll well, the LED won't run at all or will run, but not as high as it could. The number of batteries you use and the kind can have an impact on brightness, but also runtime. If you're running an LED directly off the batteries, you'll have a bright light at first, but as the voltage in the batteries fall so will the light coming from the LED. Be careful though, I'm sure there's a point where you can have too many batteries directly driving an LED. So, what do we do now, but make some kind of device to take power from the batteries and deliver it at "safe" levels to the LEDs. These drivers can boost the power from the batteries if it's not enough, or it can decrease it if it's too much. Most drivers are dedicated to one or the other, but some can do both. Usually, a LED with a good driver won't dim a quickly as on directly connected to the batteries. It'll still dim, but the decent won't be as quick. I think another thing to talk about is heat. LED's today, can produce heat that can damage or lower the performance of themselves. For a bright LED light, good heatsinking is essential to maintain brightness. This is one thing some manufactures don't think is cost effective and don't add to their product. The new maglites are one example. They have virtually nothing in the way of heatsinking. When one is turned on it starts up bright, but as heat builds up as the light stays on; it dims. The luxeon III throttles itself back to prevent self-inflected damage.