M@G batteries for dummies

sortafast

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Is what I want to do is mod a mag and give it to my dad as a birthday present. I want to make it into a tri-cree Q5 so its bright as heck with a fairly decent runtime, and I would probably run it from a Shark driver, or if i am feeling saucy, I might just use 3 of the DX 1000mA drivers I have floating around and run one per led. I know how to mod the light and all that stuff, but I need to make this as stupid simple and as durable as possible for my dad. This is going to be a camping light and will probably get used a lot, so it would need some sort of simple user serviceable battery (pack?). I am thinking about just using primaries as doing up a rechargeable pack might not work so good for him, but I am open to suggestions. What are the options? This will be the first real flash light mod I have done (but I did stay at a holiday Inn Express last night). I have spun out a few bike lights on the lathe so I feel comfortable with tearing stuff up. Any thoughts/help?
 

JamisonM

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Instead of using three emitters, how about using just one? I just got a couple of Gene's drop-in's and I can say that they are very bright. In fact, I think they would provide plenty of light for just about anything that you would want to do with them. I'm not saying that it's the end all, but it would make a damn fine light in a 3 or 4 cell maglite and you'd have good runtime also because you wouldn't be feeding 3 emitters.
 

monkeyboy

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For 3 emitters with boost driver, the best options are: 2 x C cell li-ions in a 2C m*g (available from AW + extension ring) or 6AA in 2D m*g (available from the Shoppe).

I would use the Fatman driver over the shark. Available here: http://www.taskled.com/

For my quad cree build, I've found that the Shark tends to overheat and shut down when driven continuously at a high level whereas the Fatman has been OK (still needs to be heatsinked)
 

ace0001a

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There's been discussion around here about that recently. The Shark driver is ideal, but you need special battery configurations. If you plan on using a 3D Mag, then you need to get a 9AA-to-3D adapter and a dummy AA cell because you'll be using 8AAs in this setup. If you've got a bored out 2D Mag, then you can get 2 4AA-to-1D adapters and go that route. If you want to run each emitter with it's own driver (the DX ones), you probably won't get an amp through each using 3Ds. Gene Malkoff is making a Tri-Seoul dropin that has 3 individual drivers in it and runs off a 4D Mag @ 1A per emitter. Keeping it simple would be to use those DX regulators you got on a 3D Mag, but I don't think you'll get 1A to each emitter. My guess would be 700mA to each emitter--which would still be pretty damn bright...unless you go with a 4D Mag.

Is what I want to do is mod a mag and give it to my dad as a birthday present. I want to make it into a tri-cree Q5 so its bright as heck with a fairly decent runtime, and I would probably run it from a Shark driver, or if i am feeling saucy, I might just use 3 of the DX 1000mA drivers I have floating around and run one per led. I know how to mod the light and all that stuff, but I need to make this as stupid simple and as durable as possible for my dad. This is going to be a camping light and will probably get used a lot, so it would need some sort of simple user serviceable battery (pack?). I am thinking about just using primaries as doing up a rechargeable pack might not work so good for him, but I am open to suggestions. What are the options? This will be the first real flash light mod I have done (but I did stay at a holiday Inn Express last night). I have spun out a few bike lights on the lathe so I feel comfortable with tearing stuff up. Any thoughts/help?
 
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sortafast

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What kind of run time could one get using the 8AA route? Would be nice to have something that would last a long time for convenience sake. I am kinda leaning towards a 3D just for the capacity. I thought about a single LED, but I want something that is a bit brighter just for the shock and awe. I would like to keep it under $100 total for the whole project if I can. Kinda want that "I spared no expense" thing with this one.
 

monkeyboy

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I get 1hr35min regulated followed by dimmer output with 4 crees at 800mA on 8AA, so I expect you would get about the same with 3 crees at 1000mA. 8AA may be too much voltage for 3 crees in series using a boost driver. AA's come off the charger at about 1.44V giving 3.84V per emitter. Cree typical Vf is 3.7V @ 1000mA. May be OK if you consider voltage sag but it's a bit risky. You would be better with 3 GD 1000 drivers in series driving 1 LED each. (GD drivers are tiny, they should fit easily into a m*g)

Not a chance that you will manage this for under $100.

2D mag $30
8AA Nimh batteries $30
Driver board(s) $20 (or $54)
PXR heatsink $19
Battery carrier $18
3 x Mcr19-xr reflectors $45
3 x Cree Q5 LED $60
postage ~$40

= $262 (Not considering any screw ups) You could save a bit by going for lower bin crees and IMS reflectors.

If you go for a Fivemega quad bored m*g 2d, copper PXR heatsink, UCL lens and various thermal compounds we're talking more like $400.

I've spent $500+ on my quad Cree build including screw ups and some extras just in case plus postage to UK.
 
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DonShock

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I've run a triple Q2 cree setup with a Shark driver off alkaline cells in a Mag4D. I haven't done a full runtime since I've just been playing around, but it works and is plenty bright.
 

JamisonM

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What kind of run time could one get using the 8AA route? Would be nice to have something that would last a long time for convenience sake. I am kinda leaning towards a 3D just for the capacity. I thought about a single LED, but I want something that is a bit brighter just for the shock and awe. I would like to keep it under $100 total for the whole project if I can. Kinda want that "I spared no expense" thing with this one.
As you can see from MonkeyBoy's post; the light you want to build will easily exceed the $100 price range you're aiming for. I'll tell you now that the reason I didn't build something similar to what you want to build for you father is because of the price. Believe me, I wanted to, but for near the $300 price tag it just wasn't worth it to me. It may be different in your case, but it just wasn't for me as it would've been a pricey and rarely used toy. If I wanted light; I would've gone to my lesser lights that still would've provided more light then what was probably called for. Anyway, enough of that. Here's a breakdown of the parts need for what I already suggested.

DHS HAIII $12
Fatman Driver $22
Emitter (Cree or SSC) ~$12

Not bad a price if you already have a soldering gun, solder, flux, wire, thermal paste, duct/electric tape, and the host maglite. Heck, you could buy double that and still keep it close to your $100 price range. Litemania also sells heatsinks and doesn't have a minimum order of $18. You could also get a UCL lens from flashlightlens and that would allow more light out of the light at an additional $10. Anyway, I'll tell you again; using one emitter driven at max spec. (Cree or SSC) will provide more then enough light for a good long time while keeping it dirt simple and cheap to boot. Here's an example of what I'm talking about.
 

ace0001a

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Actually this project can be accomplished for less than $100 if you go the cheap route:

Perfect Tri-Star Sink PTS-2 D [PTS2-D] $18.00
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_53&products_id=745

Cree XR-E Q5 Star $28 for 3 shipped from DX:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394

AMC7135 1050mA Regulated Circuit Board for DIY Flashlights 20-Pack $26.95 ($1.35 each) (They only sell this in a 20-pack, but they're cheap and you can use them in many inexpensive flashlights)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3201

UCL Lens $7
http://www.flashlightlens.com/item--UCL%AE-Lens--UCL_Lens.html

Fraen 19mm Cree XRE reflector - $1 each from Arrow Electronics
http://www.arrownac.com/
Search for FRC-N1-XR79-0R

3D Maglite - $18 at department stores
4D Maglite - $20 at department stores

18 + 28 + 4 + 7 + 5 + 18 = $80 (maybe $85 depending on how much shipping will be on the reflectors)

This mockup may not be the premium way to build a Tri-LED Mag, but it should work. The AMC7135 boards are basically linear regulators that if not anything else, act as a "smart resistor". Most likely you won't get 1000mA to each emitter in a 3D setup...even in a single emitter setup, CPF members have measured 900+ mA on a 3Ds. My guestimate, each emitter would probably get around 700mA in a 3D Mag. If you went with a 4D, you probably could get 900mA. Why I believe this will work is because Gene Malkoff has already built a Tri-SSCP4 Mag dropin using 3 of the drivers he uses in his single emitter dropin. He said it ran optimally in a 4D Mag (which incidentally is the largest size Mag you could use his single emitter dropin with). He also said his Tri-SSCP4 dropin would also work in a 3 or even 2 D Mag, but a reduced output. Now applying how he's got that to work, the same principle idea should work with what the mockup that I just covered. It may not be the ideal way to build a multi-emitter Mag Mod, but is a possible lower cost option.
 
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monkeyboy

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For the 2D to 8AA option, if you factor in 8AA battery carrier and 8AA batteries plus postage on everything, It's going to be over $100. Still cheap though.

The AMC7135 would work with 8AA in a 2S2P configuration.
 
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Bullzeyebill

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"Used a lot" by your dad? Go primary C's or D's. Use your X3 leds, but keep the current to leds low, like around 750mA's total or so, and use 3 cells, D's would be good. Actually using resistors to keep current down might be the best way to go, and the light would last hours at decent brightness, and a simple change out of D's. You dad might not be a "simple man", but would probably appreciate a simple easy to use bright flashlight. JMTC's.

Bill
 

ace0001a

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"Used a lot" by your dad? Go primary C's or D's. Use your X3 leds, but keep the current to leds low, like around 750mA's total or so, and use 3 cells, D's would be good. Actually using resistors to keep current down might be the best way to go, and the light would last hours at decent brightness, and a simple change out of D's. You dad might not be a "simple man", but would probably appreciate a simple easy to use bright flashlight. JMTC's.

Bill

Exactly what I was thinking with my mockup. Those AMC7135 basically are "smart resistors". Going with a 3D Mag, wiring up each individually with an AMC7135 would make for a cheap, but still really bright Tri-LED Mag...
 

yellow

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driver and emitters and such wont bother anyone, get whatever is best in Your opinion
(on/off + bright for normal use, or 2-3 stage for "serious" users)
but
no Li-Ion, no AA holder, no nothing uncommon.

--> plain 2 D cells + stepup driver for single emitter @ 1000 mA
(will be much brighter than the average person is aware of)
 

RCatR

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I'm going to get flamed for this but here goes:

4D mag, running primaries or NIMH's

Use 3 leds with the following optics: 27mm, and 2x17mm

Grab some of the ebay 36cp 5mm leds and frost them; stick a few in between the reflectors to give you some up close spill.

As for a driver, I'd say go with a shark or some resistors. I'd recommend running the 5mms off resistors, to give yo ua hard-wired backup option.
 
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